1UZ into E36
- Thread starter Patrick Bateman
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Interested in seeing pics if you have them! Thx for taking the time to keep us posted.
I do.
Major surgery was carried out on the hydraulic fan pump to provide some clearance, along with the bracket on the outer edge of the water pump and the AC mount casting on the engine block. And no, the cooling system will not leak.
All to make way for the turbo. Its an Aeroflow 5455, and is a 650hp bolt-on upgrade for the Ford Barra 4.0 turbo (GT3482R). Billet compressor, Inconel turbine, ceramic ball bearing core. Should do the trick.
Major surgery was carried out on the hydraulic fan pump to provide some clearance, along with the bracket on the outer edge of the water pump and the AC mount casting on the engine block. And no, the cooling system will not leak.
All to make way for the turbo. Its an Aeroflow 5455, and is a 650hp bolt-on upgrade for the Ford Barra 4.0 turbo (GT3482R). Billet compressor, Inconel turbine, ceramic ball bearing core. Should do the trick.
The gearshifter was a massive headache and, while it works perfectly, I'm disappointed that it only happened by blind luck rather than engineering skill.
The BMW shifter runs a flexible cable above the fulcrum point, where the Soarer shifter runs a control rod below the fulcrum point. There is a large difference in gate positions (PNRD21) between the two vehicles.
I cut the lower portion of the Soarer shifter and fixed it to the upper part of the Beemer shifter, using a shaft through the centre of both then cross drilled and fixed them in place with an roll pin.
I measured countless times over a few days and completely messed up the positioning, so I just went with the best guess. Turned out perfect and all the Beemer gates line up with the A340 selector positions.
The BMW shifter runs a flexible cable above the fulcrum point, where the Soarer shifter runs a control rod below the fulcrum point. There is a large difference in gate positions (PNRD21) between the two vehicles.
I cut the lower portion of the Soarer shifter and fixed it to the upper part of the Beemer shifter, using a shaft through the centre of both then cross drilled and fixed them in place with an roll pin.
I measured countless times over a few days and completely messed up the positioning, so I just went with the best guess. Turned out perfect and all the Beemer gates line up with the A340 selector positions.
First of all, I recommend you download this file and read it back to front.
https://f01.justanswer.com/RbZmAlHy/This+is+how+you+wire+up+a+1UZFE+Engine.pdf
Next, download this file and be sure your model of E36 is included
drive.google.com
The BMW X20 Plug has many pin configurations based on your build date and original engine, but they all basically have the same wires in them. The wiring colours will give it away.
The input wiring into the X20 from your 1UZ harness are:
Main Relay
- Pin 30 - I used a standalone constant 12v+ cable across from the jump post.
ECU Batt input is crimped into this wire.
- Pin 87 - Output power to the igniters, injectors, coils, O2 sensor heaters, purge vsv, and anything else powered by the MREL
Each output was fused individually so that one short doesn't take out the whole circuit.
- Pin 85 - MREL output from the ECU
- Pin 86 - ground
https://f01.justanswer.com/RbZmAlHy/This+is+how+you+wire+up+a+1UZFE+Engine.pdf
Next, download this file and be sure your model of E36 is included
75-BMW-E36-Workshop-Manual.pdf
drive.google.com
The BMW X20 Plug has many pin configurations based on your build date and original engine, but they all basically have the same wires in them. The wiring colours will give it away.
The input wiring into the X20 from your 1UZ harness are:
- Tacho signal - black
- Coolant temp sender - brown/violet & brown/yellow
- (you'll need to fit the OE BMW sender as the gauge is calibrated to it)
- Oil pressure switch - brown/green
- Check engine light - grey
- Fuel pump relay trigger - brown/green
- Alternator light - blue
- Reverse light signal - blue/yellow
- Ignition power - thick green
- Starter - black/yellow
Main Relay
- Pin 30 - I used a standalone constant 12v+ cable across from the jump post.
ECU Batt input is crimped into this wire.
- Pin 87 - Output power to the igniters, injectors, coils, O2 sensor heaters, purge vsv, and anything else powered by the MREL
Each output was fused individually so that one short doesn't take out the whole circuit.
- Pin 85 - MREL output from the ECU
- Pin 86 - ground
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Hi, Thankyou for your post, it is by far the most informative I’ve found. I’m doing the same build with rear sump soarer 1UZ. I’m going to do the sump adapter plate myself. Do you know anyone that has the custom headers?
Like most conversions, one solution leads to another challenge. I deleted the power steering pump to make way for the turbo manifold and found a solution in a Volvo XC60 electric pump. The two brackets took about 12 hours to make. Will need to make a reservoir and get some nice fittings to plumb it up.
Tucked radiator from ChaseBays leaves a huge amount of space in from of the engine. Might have to put a turbo in there.
And the intercooler arrived. Just finished the brackets today and its rock solid.
Oil coolers and intercooler piping are next...
Tucked radiator from ChaseBays leaves a huge amount of space in from of the engine. Might have to put a turbo in there.
And the intercooler arrived. Just finished the brackets today and its rock solid.
Oil coolers and intercooler piping are next...
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It was just too tight with the turbo mounted under the left side adn there is plenty of room for a high mount.
Cross-over pipe is tacked together ready to MIG, and now the turbo finally has a home.
It will be much easier to mount the oil return pipes and wastegate in this position, plus its a breeze to remove should it ever need to be worked on.
Turns out a standard LS400 lower radiator hose is a perfect fit to the Chasebays radiator.
Cross-over pipe is tacked together ready to MIG, and now the turbo finally has a home.
It will be much easier to mount the oil return pipes and wastegate in this position, plus its a breeze to remove should it ever need to be worked on.
Turns out a standard LS400 lower radiator hose is a perfect fit to the Chasebays radiator.
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COVID and work have taken precedence over engine swaps for the year but I'm starting to make some more progress in the last month.
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- M-Sport wheels with the correct offset
- Nissan S15 R200 diff (helical LSD) with billet axles installed
- Big brake upgrade (E46 330i front & rear brakes) installed with HEL braided lines
- Engine & transmission mounts revised - now sitting slightly lower and 20mm further back
- I've finally found a solution to the heater hose nightmare
- Radiator hoses finished
- Auto oil coolers finished
- Haltech 2500 Elite & IC-7 Dash being wired in now with all new engine/trans connectors
- Intercooler, radiator & coolant x-over pipe away being tig welded by someone who knows what they're doing
- Turbosmart 50mm wastegate & FPR2000 ready to go
- BPP billet fuel rails & Bosch Motorsport 1000cc injectors ready to go
- New exhaust flanges and bends acquired - ready to start on V2 manifolds
- Alternator pulley acquired - just need to make the bracket
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