1uz into 67 Hr Holden
- Thread starter t671200
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Diff
the HR has a offset tunnel as well it is not a problem as Craft diffs here put me onto the R31 diff as they said it was less work involved in fitting , but it did throw me off a bit when i was doing my exhaust as it didn't look right ie even took a few measurements and thought the car was really lopsided then only after a few hours did I remember what I was told about the tunnel it is not a problem with my car and it has been lowered about 4.5" and has a 3.5" tailshaft .
The column drive works but in reverse where 1st was is now where park is a few modified linkages and a Dymo labeller to know what gear I'm in it works fine overdrive switch where the Choke cable was on the dash.
All good .
the HR has a offset tunnel as well it is not a problem as Craft diffs here put me onto the R31 diff as they said it was less work involved in fitting , but it did throw me off a bit when i was doing my exhaust as it didn't look right ie even took a few measurements and thought the car was really lopsided then only after a few hours did I remember what I was told about the tunnel it is not a problem with my car and it has been lowered about 4.5" and has a 3.5" tailshaft .
The column drive works but in reverse where 1st was is now where park is a few modified linkages and a Dymo labeller to know what gear I'm in it works fine overdrive switch where the Choke cable was on the dash.
All good .
pictures
first is of the car ( needs a wash too busy driving it to care) it may not look low but it is almost an 1" off the bump stop it is just the dia of the wheels that is decieving.
second the column indicator and guages
third the overdrive switch where the choke used to be
first is of the car ( needs a wash too busy driving it to care) it may not look low but it is almost an 1" off the bump stop it is just the dia of the wheels that is decieving.
second the column indicator and guages
third the overdrive switch where the choke used to be
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more updates
Had one of the gearbox solenoids go on me leaving me with only 1st & 2nd gear:damnit: replaced them and all is fine still need to do the shift kit though . got some whitewalls done on the tyres and a new radiator cap ! , exciting stuff I know . Is it a common thing for these autos to short shift 1st gear even when manually shifted and to also use 2nd gear to take off and does the shift kit get rid of this :thinking:.
Anyway some more pics:
Nick.
Had one of the gearbox solenoids go on me leaving me with only 1st & 2nd gear:damnit: replaced them and all is fine still need to do the shift kit though . got some whitewalls done on the tyres and a new radiator cap ! , exciting stuff I know . Is it a common thing for these autos to short shift 1st gear even when manually shifted and to also use 2nd gear to take off and does the shift kit get rid of this :thinking:.
Anyway some more pics:
Nick.
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Nick,
i was down the wrecker today looking at a engines.
they had a few 1UZ sitting on the floor, and only one cut which was a VVTi.
looking through your thread, i take it your headers were too wide.
do you know how wide they were originally, and how wide you had to make them to fit?
i saw one engine with very narrow headers and a slip yoke style tranny which i assume is the early crown engine. headers were only approx 60mm wide. unfortunately this engine was a sacrificial parts mule.
a couple other engines i saw which had the donut on the back of the tranny had much wider headers at approx 110mm. i think these were out of a soarer or celcior.
you ditched your donut tranny for a crown slip yoke right?
by all accounts, i think the early crown is the one i would like to find and preferably in a front cut.
do you have any pics of what you have done with the column shift? many headaches to get it working?
cheers
Drew
i was down the wrecker today looking at a engines.
they had a few 1UZ sitting on the floor, and only one cut which was a VVTi.
looking through your thread, i take it your headers were too wide.
do you know how wide they were originally, and how wide you had to make them to fit?
i saw one engine with very narrow headers and a slip yoke style tranny which i assume is the early crown engine. headers were only approx 60mm wide. unfortunately this engine was a sacrificial parts mule.
a couple other engines i saw which had the donut on the back of the tranny had much wider headers at approx 110mm. i think these were out of a soarer or celcior.
you ditched your donut tranny for a crown slip yoke right?
by all accounts, i think the early crown is the one i would like to find and preferably in a front cut.
do you have any pics of what you have done with the column shift? many headaches to get it working?
cheers
Drew
headers
The headers are still original at the front 2 ports it is the back 2 that were "tucked" in it would be no more than .5" the only reason for this is to sit the engine low enough and to clear the chassis rail as they are so close together , the column drive is exactly as it was for the glide except for brackets adapted to the 1uz bellhousing I used the original "cat" bracket cut in half and welded a bracket to support the rod . The selector on the box is left as is but as can be seen my selector on the column is in reverse to the original holden it was tried in many configerations but this has no binding of the linkages . the main aim was to sit it low and far enough back which worked in my favour for the gearbox mount as it uses the original holden one ie mount and rubber. hope these pics help .
It would not let me upload pics of the headers that are already uploaded so check back a few pages post #9 & #10 to see the pics of what was actually cut and there is a pic of the clearance around the rail and steering shaft.
Nick.
The headers are still original at the front 2 ports it is the back 2 that were "tucked" in it would be no more than .5" the only reason for this is to sit the engine low enough and to clear the chassis rail as they are so close together , the column drive is exactly as it was for the glide except for brackets adapted to the 1uz bellhousing I used the original "cat" bracket cut in half and welded a bracket to support the rod . The selector on the box is left as is but as can be seen my selector on the column is in reverse to the original holden it was tried in many configerations but this has no binding of the linkages . the main aim was to sit it low and far enough back which worked in my favour for the gearbox mount as it uses the original holden one ie mount and rubber. hope these pics help .
It would not let me upload pics of the headers that are already uploaded so check back a few pages post #9 & #10 to see the pics of what was actually cut and there is a pic of the clearance around the rail and steering shaft.
Nick.
okey:not sure if my yr 9 metal work class skills extend quite that far!
plus it must satisfy the engineer!
let me loose with a soldering iron and the wiring and that is my domain (electronics techo by trade)
but i was quite into my lego and mechano when i was a kid, so im happy to bang it all together with minimal custom fab!
i know its exxy, but its alot simpler!
any reason you went the front rack set up? i'll prob go the rear with their sump too.
cheers
Drew
plus it must satisfy the engineer!
let me loose with a soldering iron and the wiring and that is my domain (electronics techo by trade)
but i was quite into my lego and mechano when i was a kid, so im happy to bang it all together with minimal custom fab!
i know its exxy, but its alot simpler!
any reason you went the front rack set up? i'll prob go the rear with their sump too.
cheers
Drew
sump
Drew:
I'm pretty sure their front end is designed for front mount rack and the sump is HQ type rear sump setup correct me if i'm wrong , so your pretty much set in that way you won't be running rear mount rack's as their is no room for it ie : the sump will now be in the way , and the reasonfor using the rack is the width of the engine ,the steering box is in the way big time . Pipe mods are a must as they need to be tucked into the engine or they wont point down between the engine and rail so if you aren't up for fabbing a crossmember notch then pipe fabbing/ modding ,and remember this was simple stuff not scratch built pipes luckily i'll be turboing it so log manifolds as 4into 1 turbo manifolds no chance ,unless the inner guards get cut. the steering column has been moved over 1.5" to give more clearance to the stock headers as well so, Buy a welder and start learning ,cause a shop will tear you a new one if you leave fabrication up to them ie: 750 for crossmember 750 for rack 600 for sump then mounts $$ ? pipes modded or custom $$$ ? it all adds up trust me , as for me the car as it runs owe's me next to nothing as the doner car was $600 and was parted out for a profit. As far as conversions go it is not a simple one, I had a 1jzgte that was meant to go in but would require firewall therapy ,. Look at my ute I love taking to a car with a grinder and welder I can make anything fit , the easiest part of this was 2 days for wiring to get it running but overall It started on the 26th of december 2007 and was worked on sundays and wet days at work ( concrete truck Driver) So if you dont want to get "dirty" then maybe a EFI 5.0 holden is easier as it's not as big and everything can be bought guarrenteed fit.I would have done this but am tight arse was in the process of locating a wrecked 5.0 or LS1 car as the aftermarket is plentifull for upgrades .We mod cars to flog the crap out of em not worry about fuel economy .I am not giving you a hard time just letting you know it is an involved process and i'm only a weekend warrior but i'll try anything lord now's how many times i've cut too much or had to redo things . It is a learning experience think of it as Home schooling .
Nick
Drew:
I'm pretty sure their front end is designed for front mount rack and the sump is HQ type rear sump setup correct me if i'm wrong , so your pretty much set in that way you won't be running rear mount rack's as their is no room for it ie : the sump will now be in the way , and the reasonfor using the rack is the width of the engine ,the steering box is in the way big time . Pipe mods are a must as they need to be tucked into the engine or they wont point down between the engine and rail so if you aren't up for fabbing a crossmember notch then pipe fabbing/ modding ,and remember this was simple stuff not scratch built pipes luckily i'll be turboing it so log manifolds as 4into 1 turbo manifolds no chance ,unless the inner guards get cut. the steering column has been moved over 1.5" to give more clearance to the stock headers as well so, Buy a welder and start learning ,cause a shop will tear you a new one if you leave fabrication up to them ie: 750 for crossmember 750 for rack 600 for sump then mounts $$ ? pipes modded or custom $$$ ? it all adds up trust me , as for me the car as it runs owe's me next to nothing as the doner car was $600 and was parted out for a profit. As far as conversions go it is not a simple one, I had a 1jzgte that was meant to go in but would require firewall therapy ,. Look at my ute I love taking to a car with a grinder and welder I can make anything fit , the easiest part of this was 2 days for wiring to get it running but overall It started on the 26th of december 2007 and was worked on sundays and wet days at work ( concrete truck Driver) So if you dont want to get "dirty" then maybe a EFI 5.0 holden is easier as it's not as big and everything can be bought guarrenteed fit.I would have done this but am tight arse was in the process of locating a wrecked 5.0 or LS1 car as the aftermarket is plentifull for upgrades .We mod cars to flog the crap out of em not worry about fuel economy .I am not giving you a hard time just letting you know it is an involved process and i'm only a weekend warrior but i'll try anything lord now's how many times i've cut too much or had to redo things . It is a learning experience think of it as Home schooling .
Nick
haha, yeah i hear ya, no offence taken.
im not afraid to get dirty, and have quite a few mates in the metal trade who can give me hints and tips to get me started with the metal work.
I know there is gunna be custom fab, but i will also be utilising some off the shelf stuff for the conversion where possible and all work will need to satisfy engineers.
the car is at my mates workshop, and we've got everything there from hoist, to air tools, to welders and lathe.
i've also got quite a few cluey people around me, so their assistance will be priceless.
currently on the body work and rust repairs at the moment which is proving to be quite time consuming, but progress is being made.
btw - CRS do the rear mount kit for this conversion.
http://rodshop.com.au/holden/ej-eh.htm
im not afraid to get dirty, and have quite a few mates in the metal trade who can give me hints and tips to get me started with the metal work.
I know there is gunna be custom fab, but i will also be utilising some off the shelf stuff for the conversion where possible and all work will need to satisfy engineers.
the car is at my mates workshop, and we've got everything there from hoist, to air tools, to welders and lathe.
i've also got quite a few cluey people around me, so their assistance will be priceless.
currently on the body work and rust repairs at the moment which is proving to be quite time consuming, but progress is being made.
btw - CRS do the rear mount kit for this conversion.
http://rodshop.com.au/holden/ej-eh.htm
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edz
New Member
8" rims
Actually it is legal in NSW, VSI09 pre 1973, can be between 6-8" on a car of 1000 -1200kg.
Actually it is legal in NSW, VSI09 pre 1973, can be between 6-8" on a car of 1000 -1200kg.
