autronic
Member
toy4whatever:
A few reasons to use a billet steel flywheel.
First of all, you can get it made to your specifications ( as an example the bolt holes will be in the correct
place and they will be 10.1mm big. Any bigger than this and you have a fair chance of the flywheel start
working itself loose ), you can choose material, what weight you want it to be and what clutch assembly
you want to run.
Then it is the safety factor. A cast iron flywheel is fine behind a stock engine that is never revved higher
than the stock rev limit ( do not "bounce" the engine on the rev limit thou ), runs an organic clutch plate
and the clutch is never slipped.
If you rev an engine think of the forces a 30+ lbs cast iron flywheel is subjected too, if it lets go good luck.
If you run a cerametallic or sintered clutch you will slip the clutch, either because the clutch is a dog to
get of the line or you "slip" the clutch to get the boost up or you want to do burnouts etc.
When you slip a clutch you generate heat and on a flywheel the surface will heat up rapidly and small
cracks will appear. A steel flywheel will take this kind of abuse better than cast iron, the cast iron flywheel
will disintegrate a lot quicker than a billet steel. Trust me on this, I have seen what a 12 kg Volvo cast iron
flywheel will do when abused.
The enclosed picture is the flywheel I will be using. It's meant for dual 241 mm ( 9.5" ) organic plates and
a South Bend clutch/ Sachs racing pressure plate. It's made of cromo steel, weighs 5.1 kg's ( 11.5 lbs )
and yes it do cost more than $100, $650 to be excact, but I still think its cheap insurance and I will be
running organic plates !
The 2 small extra holes inside the bolt pattern towards the crank is pilot holes to fit 2 extra 10 mm locking
"pins" between the flywheel and the crank as I have had a flywheel work itself loose.
A few reasons to use a billet steel flywheel.
First of all, you can get it made to your specifications ( as an example the bolt holes will be in the correct
place and they will be 10.1mm big. Any bigger than this and you have a fair chance of the flywheel start
working itself loose ), you can choose material, what weight you want it to be and what clutch assembly
you want to run.
Then it is the safety factor. A cast iron flywheel is fine behind a stock engine that is never revved higher
than the stock rev limit ( do not "bounce" the engine on the rev limit thou ), runs an organic clutch plate
and the clutch is never slipped.
If you rev an engine think of the forces a 30+ lbs cast iron flywheel is subjected too, if it lets go good luck.
If you run a cerametallic or sintered clutch you will slip the clutch, either because the clutch is a dog to
get of the line or you "slip" the clutch to get the boost up or you want to do burnouts etc.
When you slip a clutch you generate heat and on a flywheel the surface will heat up rapidly and small
cracks will appear. A steel flywheel will take this kind of abuse better than cast iron, the cast iron flywheel
will disintegrate a lot quicker than a billet steel. Trust me on this, I have seen what a 12 kg Volvo cast iron
flywheel will do when abused.
The enclosed picture is the flywheel I will be using. It's meant for dual 241 mm ( 9.5" ) organic plates and
a South Bend clutch/ Sachs racing pressure plate. It's made of cromo steel, weighs 5.1 kg's ( 11.5 lbs )
and yes it do cost more than $100, $650 to be excact, but I still think its cheap insurance and I will be
running organic plates !
The 2 small extra holes inside the bolt pattern towards the crank is pilot holes to fit 2 extra 10 mm locking
"pins" between the flywheel and the crank as I have had a flywheel work itself loose.
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