Can anyone ID this ECU? And help with gearchanges

[madmont]

You should be able to swap the switches on the shifter. As for the solenoid plug take the pans off and have a look where the wires go and swap them as well. What are the part numbers on the plates?

 

[vaughan]

thanks for your suggestion madmont, i can swap the shifter switches.:approve:

as for the other plug, I pulled the pan off to have a look at the wires. they look to be the same, apart from an extra something on the one that came out of the vehicle.

what is this?
i remember reading somewhere about a shift quality sensor that is not necessary for the correct operation of the box. would this be it?

if so i assume that i can trace the wires on the both boxes and wire up the plug without this???


the gearbox that was in the vehicle had on the plate:

3041LE 35000
93G E 03233 50050

the replacement

3041LE 35000
92E E 04991 50022


would this make the replacement older?

 

[madmont]

The one from the vehicle is indeed later than the replacement. The extra bit may be a temperature sensor bit hard to tell from the picture. Should be ok to swap the wires and plug.

 

[sideshow]

im pretty sure the extra 2 wires are for the oil temp

the rest should be s1 s2
sln
slu
and 2 wires with 12vs

as long as u dont use an auto with 10 pin solenoid plug yr fine
i tried to wire a 10 pin type auto for a custoemr and it all turned to shhiiiittt

 

[vaughan]

someone from another forum checked the number of the original gearbox against his surf and it was the same. Could this be out of a surf? Did they run an 3041LE? seems like overkill for the deisel...!

do most lexus' run the temp sensor? and what do they do with this info? is it to save the gearbox? can i wire it up without.

could incorrect wiring be the cause of my last gearbox to stuff up?

 

[sideshow]

wire it up on yr own
im not saying if its good or not hehehee
i always tell cusotmers off for supplying wrong parts
cause it can turn to shitt and cost twice as much which they dont want to pay that much so what do u do

that plug is similar to a soarer auto as they have 8 pins

and the 6 pin plug is same as crown 1uz

the ecu does not need the oil temp sensor or wiring

if both autos have 2 wires black/red that have 12v when ign is on then u should be fine

only differences i find is some autos have a 4th solenoid which does line pressure
on some autos they have a cable that does the line pressure

 

[vaughan]

i pulled the plugs and wiring out of both gearboxes and put the one that matches the loom in the vehicle (the one with temp) into the replacement gearbox. im hoping that this works. Both look the same apart from the temp so that make sense.

so just to confirm, if something is wrong with the wiring the box wont be forced to crunch itself?

im assuming it was right in the end as it was changing gears before it decided that two parks and 4 drives was better than the usual configuration.

it drove ok at the start, but by the time it returned there was next to no drive and the atf smelled really nasty. hopeing this doesn't happen again!

any idea what could cause that?

 

[vaughan]

oh and they do have two black/red wires with 12v with ign on.

 

[vaughan]

swapped the wiring over no worries, hoping this works.
box is back in vehicle with transfer.

what ATF should i use? was using Nulon synthetic last time.
any idea of quantity? seemed to take heaps last time but not sure exactly how much.

what is the method for ATF distribution through the gearbox and TC? fill, start for a few seconds, top up and so on?

 

[vaughan]

gearbox is in, works good. But doesn't seem like it has enough drive tho, doesn't seem to pull up hills like it should, seems slippy. maybe that is just what they are like?

using genuine toyota type t IV atf.

now i have an oil pressure guage and it seems like a lot of pressure. about 90 psi while driving, down to 60 and occasionally 40 at idle. there is a substancial oil leak somewhere above the oil filter, gets on the exhaust but cant tell where it is coming from. is this due to excessive pressure? or a common leak?

 

[earthman]

G'day Vaughan,

Any updates on the new/different transmission? is it holding out?

 

[vaughan]

Hi earthman
Still working on the vehicle, but have done about 50 kms in short trips and the gearbox seems fine. Changes up and down, and kicks down when i sink the boot. I wouldn't say its that quick tho, just doesn't feel like it is pushing along properly.

Found the oil leak, when the mechanic made the front sump extension he moved the dipstick to the other side, and plugged the hole poorly. So i need to find a way to plug it up, but its a real pain to get to!

Have the front diff out to put the lokka in (rear is air locked), so hopefully i can get it back on the road this weekend for more testing. Will probably chuck it on the dyno when im confident enough to have it revving (does sound sweet tho) and see if there are any faults and how much power is actually getting to the wheels.

Suspension is done, flares and wheels on, this is how it looks now

 

[vaughan]

Still having trouble with the transfer, there is no wiring so i need to get it to work without the 4wd computer. i know that people have done it, im just not sure how. I have this diagram

 

[earthman]

Hey nice rig! Are the tyres 33s? They will hit your power with a cold spoon fore sure. I went from 31 inch to 32 inch not long after I had the motor installed and the change was very noticeable. It would have been even more noticeable if I had gone to 33.

I went through the same drama’s as you last year re: the electric transfer case. I ended up swapping in a manual TF case from a hilux as the wiring turned into a huge pain in the arse. I finally figured out a way to get the whole thing working using six 12v auto relays that used all the limit switches etc on the electric motor and case only to discover the electric motor soon burnt out. I don’t know wether that was because of my 12v relay system but maybe 12v is too much and the motor may need less than 12v to work? Don’t know. Couldn’t find any specs for voltages to this motor in any manual. Maybe someone else out there could shed some light on this. There is also a big plastic cog in the electric motor that warps if you supply power to the motor for too long, so it is important to use the limit switching (ie motor automatically turns off power when it reaches a certain point).

Rather than fork out $150 for another motor that may or may not fail I swapped in a hilux manual TF case, which cost about the same. That opened up another can o’worms. The output shaft on the A341LE and A340F compared to the input shaft on the manual hilux TF case were different diameters! Both cases had to be opened and the input shafts were swapped and this seemed to solve the problem. TF case goes great now.

I have to be in Neutral when I switch to 4wd, but this is a minor inconvenience in the scheme of things. When I shift it into 4L or 4H the driveline is dependant on a stick and some gearing and not that poxy electric motor at the back of the TF case.

Anyway, throughout the whole drama I found the following sites helpful.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/index.html (TF case stuff is three quarters of the way down the page. It says it is for 2001 and 2004 Tacomas but also says that it is for the A340F transmission and R150 and R150F GBox, I think the only difference between your case and the one in this manual is the front drive shaft is on the opposite (left/passenger) side….. but don’t quote me)
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repair_Manual/03tacoma/tr/ot24ssy/loca.pdf
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repair_Manual/03tacoma/tr/trou/pst.pdf
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repair_Manual/03tacoma/tr/ot24ssy/insp.pdf

Loads of manuals on this site:
http://forums.bauchan.org/portal/downloads.php, click on “Toyota Workshop & Repair Manuals” for 4runner/hilux workshop manuals.

There were some more but that is all I can remember at the moment.

Hope this helps…..

 

[vaughan]

thanks, its getting there, slowly!
yeah tyres are 33s, but didn't feel quite right with the 30s either.

had a look at the process to pull down the transfer case to swap the input shaft and it looks quite involved. Might be the only option, and at least it should end up being more reliable.

 

[vaughan]

i have a couple diagrams for the transfer wiring but they dont match up.

i went to the wreckers and traced the wires of a later model (had two plugs top left of transfer and electronic speedo) and cut the motor plug and transfer indicator switch (which didnt help).

When i went to wire it up i found that the colours matched the 4wd ecu and my diagrams, phew! wired up the motor only and tested it, it worked! the motor runs for a second and stops, the front driveshaft cant be turned, and it is free when the button is pressed again

nothing else is wired up, and hopefully not needed. only problem is 4wd light doesn't work. hopefully it proves to be reliable!

cant wait to test it, but still a few things to do.

auto is leaking alot out of the pan, has a new cork gasket but leaks even when it is not running. What is the best way to seal these up? dont want to take it off again. also what is the torque setting for the pan bolts?

 

[sideshow]

4wd light works of a switch in back of transfer
when the motor pushes the gear forward or backward for 4wd
it pushes on this switch much like a reverse switch
this then grounds the wire going to the 4wd light

 

[madmont]

auto is leaking alot out of the pan, has a new cork gasket but leaks even when it is not running. What is the best way to seal these up? dont want to take it off again. also what is the torque setting for the pan bolts?

I only seal with silicone I do not use cork and mine do not leak

 

[vaughan]

what type did you use?
i removed mine on the weekend which was a prick of a job because the exhaust is so close to the front edge, i could only tilt it down i little because i couldnt get it all the way off. I removed the cork gasket and used silicone instead. I left it overnight then retightened and filled. About 30 min later i saw a puddle of oil onder the vehicle! wasn't impressed as it was such a sucks job. Bit the bullet and pulled it apart, this time i got my hand and small ratchet in and removed the thing on the bottom with the wire screen in it and was able to get the pan off. Not sure if i used the wrong sealant or didn't let it cure properly? The atf did a good job of cleaning the silicone off...

 

[madmont]

I usually use permatex high temp rtv silicone. Make sure you clean both surfaces with thinners before you apply the silicone