Variety of issues

[MaccyD]

Ok, so i posted up in another thread but i have a few issues so it would be handy for me to have it all in one location.

I have a 200sx with 1UZ running standard ECU.

I have blocked the EGR, dont run secondary lambdas and i think thats pretty much it as far as modifying the electronics.

So the problems. The car has a very high idle when cold, i ran it for the first time with fluids the other day to get it up to temp. It idled high for ages then i blipped the throttle and it started hunting (a high frequency rotary engine style hunt).

Another issue is my throttle response. It seems to be a bit poor. I can tickle it up to higher revs and it seems to be ok from there. But response at lower revs seems a bit stuttery and, well, unresponsive.

Any help apreciated, in another thread the idle thing was attributed to a couple of wires being the wrong way round.

Oh, also,for some reason my alternator isnt charging though i have bridged 2 of the wires.

 

[Bushwhacker]

Air flow meter going bad?

What colour are the alternator wires?

 

[MaccyD]

Errrm a yellow and something else. Id need to check. The afm worked ok in the lexus it came from, but may have taken a couple of knocks. Is there any way to check it? Also, sounds silly but for hood clearance my afm is on its side, would that have an effect?

I should say im still to change the plugs which i think i could do with doing. Any reccomendations? Also, money will come to you in next couple of days, i havent forgotten lol, youve been a lifesaver!

 

[Bushwhacker]

No, it doesn't matter what position the AFM is in, as long as the honeycomb screen is clean and the electrical connection is sound.

Also, make sure the ECU always has 12v at the BATT pin, otherwise it will never 'learn' anything and the engine won't run smoothly.

What year is your engine? I can e-mail the alternator/charging diagram to you.

 

[MaccyD]

I think i already have the diagram, its just the standard car had a 2 wire plug and the new one is 3 wires. I saw somewhere that they were bridged and it was ok, but now im thinking i need to source what i think will be a switched live or permanent live.

It may not be learning as up until yesterday there was no permanent clamp for the battery so it was removed every time. Does it have to run for a while to sort its life out?

 

[MaccyD]

Oh, i dont have a fuel computer. I have a hard wired switch to a 255l/hr fuel pump. This goes in on the passenger side and the return is on the drivers side.

 

[Bushwhacker]

I think i already have the diagram, its just the standard car had a 2 wire plug and the new one is 3 wires. I saw somewhere that they were bridged and it was ok, but now im thinking i need to source what i think will be a switched live or permanent live.

It may not be learning as up until yesterday there was no permanent clamp for the battery so it was removed every time. Does it have to run for a while to sort its life out?

Yes, the ECU needs at least eight starts of the engine to learn and store everything (preferable up to temp) and settle down. Every time you disconnect the battery it has to start over.

Oh, i dont have a fuel computer. I have a hard wired switch to a 255l/hr fuel pump. This goes in on the passenger side and the return is on the drivers side.

I wire the fuel pumps using a five pin relay like this:

30---FUEL PUMP
86---TO OIL PRESSURE SWITCH ON ENGINE.

85---IGNITION
87a---IGNITION
87---CRANK SIGNAL

The pump runs when the engine is being started only, and then the relay switches over to constant power when the oil pressure light goes out.
If the oil pressure is lost i.e. the engine stalls, the fuel pump shuts down.

 

[MaccyD]

Thats a good call, a bit safer than what i have now!

Hmm ok, i seem to remember this with my old 1JZ conversion. I will get it up to temperature and try and drive it a few times then before diagnosing problems further. Though id have thought the idle thing would be unrelated.

 

[MaccyD]

ok, on the alternator i have 3 wires. A yellow (this is already wired in to my car) and the 2 i have spliced together are white and black/red (or maybe red/black)

Should this work or do i need to tweek the 2 wires that are spliced together?

 

[MaccyD]

Just had a look at the car diagram.

The yellow on the alternator, went to the charge warning lamp on the car.

The only other wire i have available is a 7.5A errrm permanent live i think.

 

[Bushwhacker]

Yellow wire on the Lexus alternator (pin #1 on the plug) should go to the charge light on the dash.

The black/red wire (pin #2) goes to a 7.5a fuse thats 'hot' when the engine is running or cranking.

The white/blue wire (pin #3) goes to the battery through 40a fuse.

The thick white wire/s go directly to the battery through a 100a? fuse.

 

[MaccyD]

Yeah, my thick wire goes to the battery just direct.

Out of interest, whats the relevance of the ampage of the fuse it goes through?

For example, what would the problem be if i ran the White wire to my 7.5A permanent live?

I think the problem must be that the switched live is always live, but im not sure why that means it wouldnt charge.

 

[MaccyD]

Oh, i get what a fuse does incidentally, it came across like i have no idea (which isnt always true lol), just wondering if it means it wouldnt work or maybe would just blow the fuse immediately.

 

[MaccyD]

Ok, im having difficulty finding the switched live for my alternator. Can anyoe direct me towards a suitable one i can splice into on the alternator side of the engine?

Thanks

 

[Bushwhacker]

What are the wire colours on your alternator?

 

[MaccyD]

yellow, white and black/red

 

[Bushwhacker]

yellow, white and black/red

The black/red needs an ignition feed to switch the alternator on.
Yellow goes through a 7.5A fuse to the charge light on the dash.
White wire goes to battery through a 30a or 40a fuse.

 

[MaccyD]

Yeah, im a little confused as i just have a permanent live going to the the permanent AND switched live on the alternator but it doesnt seem to be charging. I will just go through the arduous task of taking a wire from the footwell/ECU area and taking it all the way round to the alternator. With any luck it will then show some charge!

 

[Bushwhacker]

Yeah, im a little confused as i just have a permanent live going to the the permanent AND switched live on the alternator but it doesnt seem to be charging. I will just go through the arduous task of taking a wire from the footwell/ECU area and taking it all the way round to the alternator. With any luck it will then show some charge!

You can take an ignition feed from the back of the ignition switch, just put an in-line fuse near the ignition.

 

[MaccyD]

Its ok, if im coming from there i have 7.5A fused switched lives that come from the chassis. I was just hoping there might be something on the loom in the vicinity of the alternator that i could splice into as it saves me routing the wire all round the engine bay.