Project Thread Project: 97 6-speed, SC400 supercharged 4.7L V8

[stevechumo]

The polyurethane engine mount will last a lot longer than the rubber mount. It'll take more tq than the rubber before it breaks. A lot of tuners believe if a solid engine stays with less flex, less power will be lost during the transition to the tranny. That's why they brace the engine...But you may expect a little bit more noise and vibration from the engine going into the cock pit.

 

[fourdoordemon]

Hey man, what CAD package did you use, and could I get the files? Or at least a DWG file.

 

[rdm20fan]

Sick Scott! This is gonna be sick!!!
Your current set up is a SC 4.0l correct, or do you already have the 4.7?
And yeah lets here a little more about these engine mounts!
stock mounts don't like manual trans

 

[scotturnot]

Scott,

Do you plan to make more of the engine mounts? I need a set...

David, I will send you a email shortly

Hey man, what CAD package did you use, and could I get the files? Or at least a DWG file.

AutoCad, so DWG is easy, I will see what I can do.

Sick Scott! This is gonna be sick!!!
Your current set up is a SC 4.0l correct, or do you already have the 4.7?
And yeah lets here a little more about these engine mounts!
stock mounts don't like manual trans

Current setup was 4.0, Motor going in shortly is the 4.7L

 

[scotturnot]

Couple more toys to experiment with showed up today.
Kenne Bell Boost a pump - this is for my fuel system upgrade
Kenne Bell Boost a spark - Plan on trying to up the voltage on the tundra COP's
BTW the large braided line has nothing to do with fuel, That for my rear water passage X-over.

 

[scotturnot]

Seems like really slow progress but then again I don’t get seem to get the time I would like to work on this. This Week I have been working on the Cams and buckets. David sent me some cams so I got the long needed scissor gears! Thanks David!
First I went to assemble the gears on the cams, The intake cam gears went on fairly easy. I heated the gears in boiling water and froze the cams to aid in putting them together, it helped a lot. Next I went to install the Exhaust scissor gears, This time it was not so easy. With my slightly increased base circle and the higher lift they would not go on the cams. I threw the gears on my mill and put in a half moon clearance to allow them to fit. After the modification I got them all assembled.

Next I went to the motor, This is where the rubber hits the road. I hoped the hours of planning and measuring would allow for the $400+ worth of Prius lifters to correct the lash. Thus far that looks pretty good, Preliminary measurements show that the lash is .007"-.010" on the first 8. Once all said and done I am sure I will need to order a few more lifters for final adjustments.
The bad news is there is more clearance needed in the heads for the cams. One spot is a no brainer, its on the exhaust cam, it is part of the head casting that looks to be factory cleared. It needs more cleaned out of it. The disturbing part is the edges of the lobes as they enter the bucket hole.
Looks like I have two options.

1. Rotary file the top edges of the bucket holes where the two corners of the lobe will hit. They just barely interfere.

2. I could add a very slight chamfer/radius to the cams outer lobe tips edges. This seems logical because they are rough casting there now and don’t have a really clean edge. I would probably need to add a .030"-.040" chamfer to make them clear well. Somthing seems wrong with modifying $1200 worth of cams but It might be best.

Anyone have any recommendations on what way they would go?

Others may not see a condition as I describe due to I am using the Prius lifters and enlarged base circle. This pushes the lifter deeper in the hole some. My valves stems are longer to correct this some BTW

One thing I still need to look at is piston to valve clearance. It should be good but I need to make sure.

 

[scotturnot]

Well the valve train is nearing completion. I got more Prius lifters and have finished shiming the valve train. Resolved some clearance issues with lobes and the heads. Now for the task of checking piston to valve clearance. Also been fabbing up some custom parts you guys will like, Stay tuned.

 

[cribbj]

Scott, how did you resolve the interference with the cam lobes and the lifter guides?

 

[scotturnot]

Scott, how did you resolve the interference with the cam lobes and the lifter guides?

I added small chamfers to the cam lobes. The ones that hit the worst were the ones that had a castline on the side of the lobe top. I still dont have a ton of clearance there but I dont see it getting smaller when the engine runs.

 

[scotturnot]

For those guys that have not messed with the Prius lifters here is some comparison photos. I found them to be about 3 grams lighter than stock with shim.
First here they are installed.

Here are stock and Prius (Stock have the shim, also they are thicker aluminum)

 

[scotturnot]

Here are my custom thermostat housing and water brigde. Did this to clear the 8-rib belt and add AN radiator lines. Also welded AN's on the radiator.

 

[SC400TT]

Nice work Scott. I like those welded on AN's. Very "hooked" up!!

Ryan

 

[scotturnot]

Thanks Ryan, once it all gets polished it should look nice.

 

[cribbj]

That front water bridge and the inlet/outlet is sure a PITA for those of us trying to drive superchargers. Nice solution Scott.

Do you have any photos of your cams with the chamfers on the lobes? I'm probably going to be in a similar situation shortly, since our cam specs are similar ;-)

 

[stevechumo]

Nice going! :bigok:

 

[scotturnot]

That front water bridge and the inlet/outlet is sure a PITA for those of us trying to drive superchargers. Nice solution Scott.

Do you have any photos of your cams with the chamfers on the lobes? I'm probably going to be in a similar situation shortly, since our cam specs are similar ;-)

I will get some photos and post them up.

BTW, If you are looking to modify your bridge, the aluminum Elbows I used are availible at McMaster Carr. They are perfect size on and bevled for welding. I could get you a part number if needed.

 

[scotturnot]

John,
Here is a photo of the cam lobe chamfer.


Now on with more pics.
Here is the problem with the rear water bridge. With the coolant lines for the water cooler it wont fit anymore.

So here is my solution. New Water bridge adaptors. These were no five minute job, You have to make a Y someplace to feed the factory heater line too.

 

[scotturnot]

Here they are installed. AN-16 line connects them.






Last, I had some small lift lugs laser cut to get rid of the big ugly hooks.

 

[cribbj]

Looks the business Scott!

Out of curiousity, what did the discharge port look like on that Whipple? Is it about 4" x 6", and sitting just above the inlets to 1/2/3/4?

Thanks for that pic of the cam lobes; I thought you'd only chamfered the uppermost portion, but wanted to confirm it. You'd think with as many UZ cams that Kelford has probably built, this problem would have been engineered out a long time ago.

 

[scotturnot]

Looks the business Scott!

Out of curiousity, what did the discharge port look like on that Whipple? Is it about 4" x 6", and sitting just above the inlets to 1/2/3/4?

Thanks for that pic of the cam lobes; I thought you'd only chamfered the uppermost portion, but wanted to confirm it. You'd think with as many UZ cams that Kelford has probably built, this problem would have been engineered out a long time ago.

Remember my base circles are slightly larger than stock which could contribute to the lobe interferance.

Discharge port is even worse than that, its about 3"x6" clear at the front. Here are some pictures of the intercooler with the plate installed at a slight angle in hopes to redirect it to the center. My hope is the intercooler will act as a diffuser. We shall see.