oil drain plug?
- Thread starter ihiryu
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
It's pretty tough to make a drain pipe work when it has to slope uphill.
The only way systems like that work is by using scavenge pumps that will suck the oil out of the turbo, and push it uphill to the valve covers.
JustenGT8
New Member
Won't work mate...well at best it won't work well.
Oil post turbo is foamed up like you wouldn't believe....hence you need a large dia return pipe, generally around 20mm plus. It's also needs to drain to the highest point possible in the sump, not the lowest....otherwise you run risk of returned oil backing up the drain line.
Read any turbo txt, this is strongly NOT recommended.
Oil post turbo is foamed up like you wouldn't believe....hence you need a large dia return pipe, generally around 20mm plus. It's also needs to drain to the highest point possible in the sump, not the lowest....otherwise you run risk of returned oil backing up the drain line.
Read any turbo txt, this is strongly NOT recommended.
What Justen said.
Also do a search on "turbo oil drain" or "turbo oil return", there have been several good threads on this in the past with pics.
If you're running a rear sump UZ, there's tons of space on the right side of the upper oil pan to put a -10 return fitting. If you're a welder, you can put a half coupling there in a jiffy, otherwise, just drill a hole and put a -10 by 3/4" NPT adaptor there, and a 3/4" NPT coupling on the interior side to hold it.
You could also try to thread the pan, but it's pretty thin metal there. Less than 6mm, IIRC.
And then there's always the Texas way - JB Weld that sucker in there!
Also do a search on "turbo oil drain" or "turbo oil return", there have been several good threads on this in the past with pics.
If you're running a rear sump UZ, there's tons of space on the right side of the upper oil pan to put a -10 return fitting. If you're a welder, you can put a half coupling there in a jiffy, otherwise, just drill a hole and put a -10 by 3/4" NPT adaptor there, and a 3/4" NPT coupling on the interior side to hold it.
You could also try to thread the pan, but it's pretty thin metal there. Less than 6mm, IIRC.
And then there's always the Texas way - JB Weld that sucker in there!
Oh no lol, I'm going to run a return pump, and most likely for a sump. Oh it's not for a 1uz, it just happens to use a drain plug the size of a 1uz. That's why I was asking lol. Thanks for the help guys, I'm going to do some more reading.
EDIT: I noticed the rear mount turbo guys are running their drain all the way back into one of the valve covers. What do you guys think about this??
EDIT: I noticed the rear mount turbo guys are running their drain all the way back into one of the valve covers. What do you guys think about this??
spf_lexus
Active Member
haha JB weld is good stuff. Slathered some on top of my TB vacuum lines to seal em' up. It did its job except I forgot to plug the holes w/ something 1st... went to start my car and the JB dripped down and welded the TB plate stuck! Ended up 2-timing that one... good times.
It's pretty tough to make a drain pipe work when it has to slope uphill.
The only way systems like that work is by using scavenge pumps that will suck the oil out of the turbo, and push it uphill to the valve covers.
