nitrous on a 92 sc400?

[jibbby]

You can produce a 200hp shot off a dry system completely open and a heated bottle, that is not the problem it is everything else that is the problem.....Did you get any pinging noise at high rpms under that big shot? If this is true you are very lucky you did not blow your motor... Open dry system with stock fuel pump??? Come on...that's crazy...

What size bottle were you running 10 or 15lb nos bottle? Does your system look like this? I will lower the BS flag and appologise immediately if you can convince me you pulled that off...I just don't see it happening....

These are some very old pic's of my dry nos system...

 

[jibbby]

i think that annoying 1st to 2nd shift is about my least favorite thing about these cars. It revs too high, then takes too long to shift. I think these things are faster down the 1/4 if you left off just enought to get it to shift when you want then get right back on it once its in second, how annoying.

Upping the tranny line pressure helps alot with that little problem...

 

[stevechumo]

Well i just got my tranni rebuilt it should be done today...and my timeslips are in my car at the shop ill will post it up when i get the car back...but my 60 foot was 2.1 i belive...i was going to get a 2800 stall converter but my girlfriends dad was the one who knows the guy whos rebuilding my tranni and if he finds out that i have a stall converter in the car with his daughter in the car he will flip..hahaha....but when the new motor goes in then i will put a stall converter in or ill just do it my self on a weekend or something..and i don't have any pics of the set up it was my friends kit that i barrowed for this one event...but im going to buy a wet system after i get my new wheels and springs....one of my 18's are cracked and the cut springs just ride like sh*t now soo...

For the torque converter, Lextreme has a section for rebuilding torque converter. He has the best deal in town. You may check it out in the Products section.

 

[lowboost]

so was this a direct port setup or just a shark nossle going about 5 to 8 inches before the throttle body?

 

[jibbby]

Lowboost - From the nos cylinoids, a steel braided nos fuel line feed was drilled and threaded into the side of the throttle body, that is it with the dry system...

The sun effected the close up throttle body pic, but you can get the idea...

 

[lowboost]

thats how mine was on my MR2. but I had a wet shot, just a fuel line and nos line going into a shark nossle. They say keep it about 6 to 8 inches from the TB but mine was more like 4 to 5.

 

[lowboost]

jibby I recall you saying you made 384whp and left off the torque, do you have any idea of how much torque your making? What does this car fend off on the streets?

 

[jibbby]

Lowboost - I don't recall saying 384whp? That sounds good to me if it were true....... I have been too lazy to get it dyno'd, but should be coming soon...I would be happy with 350rwhp....but who know's?....The thing with nos, power changes with the temperature and pressure of each nos bottle that you are running with....So if I were to stroll into get dyno'd on a non-heated nos bottle that could mean the difference of 50-75hp or so.... Same with a full and almost empty bottle...

I am more curious what my car will dyno at without the nos to tell you the truth...Also the 1/8 and 1/4 mile times...Working on that too...

Also, the nos fuel line is drilled directly into the throttle body itself and not before...You do not want to feed it into plastic and or rubber snorkel tubes.....The seal will be compromised over time.....

 

[turbosix]

having a dry shot stuck into a plastic line is not really a danger, just half assing it. nitrous isnt flammable so its not like its going to leak out and cause an explosion

 

[ChrisSC400]

my system was similar but i didn't have the blue vacum thingy....i pluged that hole and the nosle was in the rubber intake about 5 inches before the throttle body...and it was a 10lbs bottle...

 

[lowboost]

I swear you did man, 384 is glued to my head now, but might have been another member ...

 

[jibbby]

I swear you did man, 384 is glued to my head now, but might have been another member ...

Lowboost if I said that I was dreaming at the time and must have been along time ago... Anyway, my car is fast but the 384rwhp fast...Maybe 350whp if I am lucky on a good day....Stock tranny could not handle 385rwhp anyway...

 

[Hapa]

jbibby: you seem to be one of the more knowledgable people about using nitrouse on the 1uz. but you continue to say that a dry kit is better that a wet but its also said that nitrous becomes dangerous when the car leans out, so why would a dry be better than wet?? if with the wet kit you wont lean out with the extra fuel thats being added. dont get me wrong both set-ups are good there are pros and cons for both but with the bigger shot i believe that the wet kit is more efficient and also safer. ive tried out dry and wet kits and ive had better performance with the wet.... also ive talk to todd at tm-engineering and he said without retarding the timming its is only safe to run a 100shot...obviously you have proved wrong or are you retarding your timing??? please let me know if so....i am currently in process of installing a walbro 255, XS-engineering power pack, and a digital msd dis-2. btw i am running a NOS wet kit on my car. thanks.

 

[jibbby]

Ok, the wet system in my opinion is a better setup for 150hp and up shot because you are combining fuel and nos together and tapping in the fuel line itself which ultimately creates a slightly better equal fuel and nos mix to be introduced to each injector and piston...Dry is just feed directly into the throttle body then mixes dry and then introduced to each injector and piston..Fuel and nos mix is consistant and equal but wet is a better and more consistant equal mix which is nicer with the larger shots. Dry system is easier and safer to install, and no dangers with tapping and bridging into the active fuel lines..That is all I am saying... 100-150hp dry nos shot drilled and fed into the throttle body is just fine and is what I have...I have had it for over a year now and love it...It works great for me and is independant of any fuel lines, simple and sweat..... Dryshot, is good on smaller shots as it really doesn't make a difference on a 100hp or 150hp nos shot and that is really the most you want to run on the stock SC's with the drivetrains and stock engine internals...So I have been recommending the Dry system on the 1uz-fe's... I have not retarted the timing, however, when I really heat the nos bottle and get close to that 150 or so hp nos output, I have heard once or twice a little pinging at peak rpm's and that is from not retarting the timing... On a 100hp shot retarding is not needed...150hp shot is getting close and probably should retard...Hope that helps...

Retarting the timing at higher rpm's on 150hp shot or more is a very good idea...Nos will blow the engine only at high rpm's when running lean...Many people are running 150 wet shots without retarding the timing..So Todd is wrong...He actually installed my Nos system over a year ago and did a fair job...I have had to mess with it since... Without retarting the timing on a 150hp or so you may get some pinging noise at high RPM's but will not blow the motor..For fine tuning retarding is a good idea...

Todd cannot be trusted so be careful, I almost sued him for his screw ups on my SC4...I no longer do business with him...

 

[Hapa]

cool...thanks for the info.....you have been very helpful. so in your opinion what is the largest wet shot i can run on my car without retarding any timing?? thank you once again..

 

[lowboost]

sounds about right, thats why I say go wet hehehee jibby is gonna hate me, I say spray and pray 150+!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[jibbby]

Lowboost it's all good... Nos is Nos as long as it works well, wet or dry... I recommend a 100hp dry shot with a good heating element or a 100-150hp wet shot tops...Anything more than a 150hp shot you could break something...Good luck man....

Nothing like hitting a Nos 150 shot on an sc4 and the tires bust loose in first and or second gears your head and body gets thrust back against your seat and you are smoking the competition in most cases... Nos is slamming and hard to beat...

 

[stevechumo]

I don't have any NOS system, but as far as I know for sure, dry system is always safer from fire, fuel distribution...etc. Also, the dry system will give equal amount of fuel to each cylinder while the wet system only gives an approximate amount to each cylinder. Some cylinders may have more fuel, while the others may lean out and lead to detonation. It's just a simple physic and common sense. 1 fuel hose can't distribute evenly to all cylinders at a time, although the NOS nozzle and the fuel nozzles are carefully positioned.

For the fuel system in a NOS system, it's actually similar to a turbocharge system. You can increase the boost or NOS shot safely by running larger fuel injectors controlled by an ECU. The ECU in this case will trim down the fuel during normal driving but it'll increase the injector pulses when the NOS is activated.

 

[turbosix]

I don't have any NOS system, but as far as I know for sure, dry system is always safer from fire, fuel distribution...etc. Also, the dry system will give equal amount of fuel to each cylinder while the wet system only gives an approximate amount to each cylinder. Some cylinders may have more fuel, while the others may lean out and lead to detonation. It's just a simple physic and common sense. 1 fuel hose can't distribute evenly to all cylinders at a time, although the NOS nozzle and the fuel nozzles are carefully positioned.

For the fuel system in a NOS system, it's actually similar to a turbocharge system. You can increase the boost or NOS shot safely by running larger fuel injectors controlled by an ECU. The ECU in this case will trim down the fuel during normal driving but it'll increase the injector pulses when the NOS is activated.

sorry, but that doesnt make sense.

a dry system plumbed into.. say.. the tb... can give adequate distribution to all cylinders... however a wet system plumbed the same way cannot?

look.. the only way to get 100% even nitrous/fuel distro is to have a piggyback system where there is a nozzle per injector.. N.O.S. has this system.... however it is not perfect... not all cylinders get the same flow... so even if nitrous/fuel distro is the same, not all cyl will get equal airflow...

this is more complicated than most of you would even think.

here is an example:

what teh **** right??

this is the RJC power plate... looks like a huge restriction right?

however this simple yet incredibly complex plate is the only way to get over 90% even a/f distro in a turbo buick motor with such a simple plenum.

on a 1uz with a much more complex plenum design.. not as simple....

 

[Nick M]

i think that annoying 1st to 2nd shift is about my least favorite thing about these cars. It revs too high, then takes too long to shift. I think these things are faster down the 1/4 if you left off just enought to get it to shift when you want then get right back on it once its in second, how annoying.

The LS and SC have different transmissions. Well, the first ones did. And they both can be improved in the valve body by doing a small modification.

Have you checked for any trans DTC's?