stevechumo
Active Member
I like the roof of the pod. It sticks out and prevents the glare. How will you attach this pod to the dash? I don't see any screw holes.
LS470
- Thread starter Lextreme II
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Cool Beans Looks good!!! Can't wait to see it mounted!
spf_lexus
Active Member
Thanks Steve, I realized with 3 gauges at night I might get glare on my windshield and more cop attention. Actually I am working on this right now, been on it the past few days taking my time. I used 2 3/8'' bolts straight through the dash and bolts fit behind the A/C vents w/o modding. I sorta got lucky with my placement. In all there's only 2 bolts in the front holding it down, and with just 2 bolts it's so tight there's no way it will move, so to be safe i'll add a 10'' strip of double sided 3M tape on the other end.
Later tonight I will post some more with the bolt locations and the unit primed. maybe painted.
I got a small Q, should I use gloss black epoxy paint w/o gloss coat? Or flat black with a gloss coat? I suppose the gloss black with a gloss coating might be too much?
Later tonight I will post some more with the bolt locations and the unit primed. maybe painted.
I got a small Q, should I use gloss black epoxy paint w/o gloss coat? Or flat black with a gloss coat? I suppose the gloss black with a gloss coating might be too much?
If you have both the paints on hand then I would try a little bit on something else. This is just to see how it comes out. You wouldn't want to have a Dull or flat black dash and shiney gauge mount. Have you thought about just putting new plastic on the whole dash? It is pretty easy to do. Pull out whole dash and re-finish with new leather/plastic stuff (cannot think of the name of the material) and also do the gauge cluster with the same material. This will look like it is supposed to be there!!:icon16:
spf_lexus
Active Member
suprab808-
I took a blue recycle bin and sprayed part flat and another part gloss, I decided the gloss would look better. It was sort of a dilemma as part of the OEM setup looks flat black and other areas glossy... so I had to contrast before spraying. Just to get as many imperfections out before painting I ended up priming 3 layers and sanded, and primed a second time and sanded with a finishing layer on top. I should have gone through with 320-grit but the 150 managed fine, even replicates the OEM vinyl pretty close lol.
I am still waiting for the paint to dry but once it's ready to handle i'll snap some mounted to the dash. Thanx for the comments guys.
I took a blue recycle bin and sprayed part flat and another part gloss, I decided the gloss would look better. It was sort of a dilemma as part of the OEM setup looks flat black and other areas glossy... so I had to contrast before spraying. Just to get as many imperfections out before painting I ended up priming 3 layers and sanded, and primed a second time and sanded with a finishing layer on top. I should have gone through with 320-grit but the 150 managed fine, even replicates the OEM vinyl pretty close lol.
I am still waiting for the paint to dry but once it's ready to handle i'll snap some mounted to the dash. Thanx for the comments guys.
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suprab808-
I took a blue recycle bin and sprayed part flat and another part gloss, I decided the gloss would look better. It was sort of a dilemma as part of the OEM setup looks flat black and other areas glossy... so I had to contrast before spraying. Just to get as many imperfections out before painting I ended up priming 3 layers and sanded, and primed a second time and sanded with a finishing layer on top. I should have gone through with 320-grit but the 150 managed fine, even replicates the OEM vinyl pretty close lol.
I am still waiting for the paint to dry but once it's ready to handle i'll snap some mounted to the dash. Thanx for the comments guys.
Cool Beans Looks good!!! Can't wait to see it mounted!
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Lextreme II
Active Member
Here are some pictures of the modified 2uzfe for 1uzfe heads. Not the optimium way of doing it but it should work ok.
spf_lexus
Active Member
Well I picked up my complete longblock today and everything looks great. Now I can rest easy knowing my head sealing issues are gone. I used OEM 2uzfe HG's and my builder added a red colored sealant in between for a better/consistent seal, of which I cannot pronounce lol. Now it's back to the tedious job of swapping everything back on and getting the adaptronic in order.
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Lextreme II
Active Member
That look nice. Please call me.....
stevechumo
Active Member
That looks sexy. With the new engine, you gotta boost it up to 9 psi at least.
spf_lexus
Active Member
Steve-
I plan to raise it to 9psi. figured all the cash iv put up better give some serious grunt. Been working 1/2 my summer w/o a car and any spending dough... really want this done right! Since I lost my wits with the cams I guess i'll win the HP back with a smaller $75 pulley lol.
I got a question about the adaptronic, figured a new thread for a small Q wasn't necessary. I have decided to have my builder wire up my ECU and road-tune it, and feel cool having him do it as he went to school from AEM for their engine management division and worked with the legendary Carrol Shelby back in the day. What we both want is an easy way to "unplug" or "switch" from stock ECU to after, and keep everything plug in ready for smog/ETC. My first tip was to splice from the stock loom so I could interchange 2 sets of plugs for 2 separate ECU's but don't know if it's that easy. Anyone every messed with this?
I plan to raise it to 9psi. figured all the cash iv put up better give some serious grunt. Been working 1/2 my summer w/o a car and any spending dough... really want this done right! Since I lost my wits with the cams I guess i'll win the HP back with a smaller $75 pulley lol.
I got a question about the adaptronic, figured a new thread for a small Q wasn't necessary. I have decided to have my builder wire up my ECU and road-tune it, and feel cool having him do it as he went to school from AEM for their engine management division and worked with the legendary Carrol Shelby back in the day. What we both want is an easy way to "unplug" or "switch" from stock ECU to after, and keep everything plug in ready for smog/ETC. My first tip was to splice from the stock loom so I could interchange 2 sets of plugs for 2 separate ECU's but don't know if it's that easy. Anyone every messed with this?
stevechumo
Active Member
9 psi is still conservative with this engine. You also may start picking up a spare tranny for a complete rebuild with better internals. I've found some info on how to strengthen the Lexus auto tranny, in a cheap way.
For 9 psi, I'd think a simple piggyback ECU would be ideal for cost and simplicity. You'll only need a set of 315 cc injectors, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and either a SAFC, Greddy, Maf-pro, or Map ECU. It's not easy to control the auto tranny if the standalone ECU isn't capable of, nor the tuner can't tune the tranny. With a piggyback ECU, the stock ECU still controls the tranny (which I think is best), and other accessories. You can also unplug the piggyback and the big injectors, and perhaps the supercharger before smog.
For 9 psi, I'd think a simple piggyback ECU would be ideal for cost and simplicity. You'll only need a set of 315 cc injectors, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and either a SAFC, Greddy, Maf-pro, or Map ECU. It's not easy to control the auto tranny if the standalone ECU isn't capable of, nor the tuner can't tune the tranny. With a piggyback ECU, the stock ECU still controls the tranny (which I think is best), and other accessories. You can also unplug the piggyback and the big injectors, and perhaps the supercharger before smog.
spf_lexus
Active Member
Ok the project has been sitting for the last 2 weeks because I finally got some steady work to pay off all these parts! I just decided after talking with several pro's that my stock A341e is staying in, just adding an RV sized T-cooler and temp gauge. I can't find any true low mile units and rebuilding with OEM toyota parts is pretty expensive. I'm waiting on gasket sets and other small bits to throw all the major parts back on. O just got my tranny gauge and oil press in the mail today, just waiting on the wideband. Here's some pics
BTW, I have no idea why the 1st pics makes it look like a RHD Celsior, editing in paint messed up the rotation lol
BTW, I have no idea why the 1st pics makes it look like a RHD Celsior, editing in paint messed up the rotation lol
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spf_lexus
Active Member
Update
Finished installing everything except the front acessories. I installed my timing belt and ran into a small problem. Since I have had these heads resurfaced twice all the pullies/idlers have to deal with the added slack, my tensioner seems to take up the slack in the lower sections of the belt routing. The upper t-belt seems loose to me.... with tensioner tight, I can move the water pump pulley freely where this was not possible before the re-surfacing. I can tell the thickness change for sure, as my water bridges almost required machining to fit snugly.:damnit:
Will the tensioner account for this slack once running? Or will i have sloppy timing because of it?
I originally thought about machining the tensioner a little to eliminate some slack but this won't affect the upper belt, seems like everything would be perfect if the t-belt had 1 less tooth.
Finished installing everything except the front acessories. I installed my timing belt and ran into a small problem. Since I have had these heads resurfaced twice all the pullies/idlers have to deal with the added slack, my tensioner seems to take up the slack in the lower sections of the belt routing. The upper t-belt seems loose to me.... with tensioner tight, I can move the water pump pulley freely where this was not possible before the re-surfacing. I can tell the thickness change for sure, as my water bridges almost required machining to fit snugly.:damnit:
Will the tensioner account for this slack once running? Or will i have sloppy timing because of it?
I originally thought about machining the tensioner a little to eliminate some slack but this won't affect the upper belt, seems like everything would be perfect if the t-belt had 1 less tooth.
spf_lexus
Active Member
im wondering if I could pull the slack out of the upper T-belt section and jump a single tooth and shave my tensioner to account for the slack?
I guess to do this the crank mark, and driver side cam marks need to stay the same... leaving the pass. side cam mark off my a single tooth... if i can pull it off would this work? In theory all the timing marks align, but visually a tooth off, and thats taken out by the tensioner... just thinkin' out loud.
I guess to do this the crank mark, and driver side cam marks need to stay the same... leaving the pass. side cam mark off my a single tooth... if i can pull it off would this work? In theory all the timing marks align, but visually a tooth off, and thats taken out by the tensioner... just thinkin' out loud.
stevechumo
Active Member
Sean,
Please don't do that. You're increasing the combustion chamber pressure. That may lead to pre-ignition. Even if there's no pre-ignition, the increased pressure will bang so hard on the pistons and the rods, and they won't last under boost. Also, the off timing is the least that you want to do unless you have a standalone ECU that can either retard or advance the timing. Even 1/2 of the tooth off will cause your engine to run rough. If the heads are sitting lower and cause the slack, you may run the thicker head gaskets to make up for that lost thickness.
I found out the Cometic head gaskets can work really good if you assemble them right. I was consulted with a Honda pro engine builder and he showed me the correct way. This engine builder has been building 500-800 whp Honda daily. You already have the head surfaces smooth so that help with the sealing. Make sure you prep the head surfaces to mirror like finish. When you torque the ARP studs to 75-80 ft/lb, you have to feel it smooth. There shouldn't be any rough resistence when you torque them. If there's any feeling like metal to metal friction with the grinding sound, then that will give you the false reading, because the holding force is actually lower than what says on the torque wrench. The key is to make sure the washers and nuts are fully covered with oil. If they're not fully covered with oil, you'll feel metal to metal friction. You got the advantage of the 4.7 iron block so a little over torque is good and to make sure the heads are tight.
Please don't do that. You're increasing the combustion chamber pressure. That may lead to pre-ignition. Even if there's no pre-ignition, the increased pressure will bang so hard on the pistons and the rods, and they won't last under boost. Also, the off timing is the least that you want to do unless you have a standalone ECU that can either retard or advance the timing. Even 1/2 of the tooth off will cause your engine to run rough. If the heads are sitting lower and cause the slack, you may run the thicker head gaskets to make up for that lost thickness.
I found out the Cometic head gaskets can work really good if you assemble them right. I was consulted with a Honda pro engine builder and he showed me the correct way. This engine builder has been building 500-800 whp Honda daily. You already have the head surfaces smooth so that help with the sealing. Make sure you prep the head surfaces to mirror like finish. When you torque the ARP studs to 75-80 ft/lb, you have to feel it smooth. There shouldn't be any rough resistence when you torque them. If there's any feeling like metal to metal friction with the grinding sound, then that will give you the false reading, because the holding force is actually lower than what says on the torque wrench. The key is to make sure the washers and nuts are fully covered with oil. If they're not fully covered with oil, you'll feel metal to metal friction. You got the advantage of the 4.7 iron block so a little over torque is good and to make sure the heads are tight.
If you use moly grease on the threads the actual torque imparted to the stud/bolt will be around 10lb higher than with engine oil.
Engine oil will give the same amount over a dry bolt.
I would go the Cometic h/gs. I know mine took one hell of a beating before it failed.
They're .051" thick which I'm sure is thicker than stock.
Engine oil will give the same amount over a dry bolt.
I would go the Cometic h/gs. I know mine took one hell of a beating before it failed.
They're .051" thick which I'm sure is thicker than stock.
spf_lexus
Active Member
thanks for the ideas guys but no way in hell i'm tearing this down again.... going back in today. I just cranked the engine 2 full rotations and all the upper slack gone... transfered to the lower section and the tensioner took it up. I need to machine the tensioner a little but no big deal.
steve-
I am using David's builder, Tim Jackson. This is the dude thats putting together all our stroker kits, race parts. I feel more than confident with his work. I had a cam stay bolt that stripped out inside the head on 4th of july and he let me drive it up and re-tap it for free (just as long as I was down to push some cars around for him lol) But my heads were mirror finished, cometic HG's, moly lubed, 75 ft-lb, and some exotic red sealant used. With the modded 2uz pistons I ended up with 8.8:1 compression.
steve-
I am using David's builder, Tim Jackson. This is the dude thats putting together all our stroker kits, race parts. I feel more than confident with his work. I had a cam stay bolt that stripped out inside the head on 4th of july and he let me drive it up and re-tap it for free (just as long as I was down to push some cars around for him lol) But my heads were mirror finished, cometic HG's, moly lubed, 75 ft-lb, and some exotic red sealant used. With the modded 2uz pistons I ended up with 8.8:1 compression.
Sean, a number of us with refaced blocks & heads have experienced timing belts jumping because the tensioner was at, or near its limit to take up the slack. And this was with new "tight" timing belts, both Gates quality aftermarket type, and the OEM belt from Lexus. No telling how loose it would have been with an old, used timing belt.
To fix this, David & I both had to "shim" our tensioners. I did mine by putting something like a valve lash cap over the end of the rod (in reality it was a hex set screw, machined out to fit the OD of the tensioner rod. Crude, but it has lasted through 2 dyno sessions where we flogged the motor pretty hard.)
Have a look at your tensioner, and if it looks like you're close to the marks, you need to think about this. I've forgotten which cams you're using, but if you have some high lift ones in there, you could be nearing the point of having an interference motor, and if your timing belt happens to jump a few teeth during its first run, it could make for a very bad day......
To fix this, David & I both had to "shim" our tensioners. I did mine by putting something like a valve lash cap over the end of the rod (in reality it was a hex set screw, machined out to fit the OD of the tensioner rod. Crude, but it has lasted through 2 dyno sessions where we flogged the motor pretty hard.)
Have a look at your tensioner, and if it looks like you're close to the marks, you need to think about this. I've forgotten which cams you're using, but if you have some high lift ones in there, you could be nearing the point of having an interference motor, and if your timing belt happens to jump a few teeth during its first run, it could make for a very bad day......
spf_lexus
Active Member
I was thinking about machining the tensioner's base, where it bolts up to gain some height but it doesn't end up being very much. I like the lash cap idea, sounds like a good fix but i'm leaving this one for my builder to sort out. I need to get this thing dropped off next week or I may never be driving it for the next semester. As for cams my stockers are back in. I crancked the engine and it seemed to take up the slack but like you said, is at it's limits. I will instruct my builder to add a spacer of some sort to riase the pin height.
RedPhoenix
New Member
Are you the first to do the modified piston tops for this 1uz/2uz hybrid? How confident are you on it? Looks like a great cheap solution to aftermarket pistons.
