Keeping it cool

[sideshow]

its prob the radiator
in the pic seams u have a brass/copper radiator
i got a custom 3 core copper and didnt make it much better
i tried an sr20t alloy rad didnt work to good either
i tried bonnet vents and also lifting back of bonnet it does jack ****

so im spending up big and today i ordered a custom alloy radiator with slimline 16 in thermo

guy has dont this before in afew hiluxs 4runners etc and never had probs

so ill let u know in a week or two with some pics and if it works

but my massive 3 core rad was a big waste of money

the 3 cores are 10 m each so thats 30 mm of cores so water flow is ****

on the new alloy theres 2 cores of 26 so thats 52 mm

and the alloy works 25% better ive been told

so hope it works but theyre not cheap

 

[-Nemesis-]

Yeah i'll be very keen to see how it goes for you.

Are you running the A/C at all and have the same airflow problem?

I'm running a 16" thermo on the inside, it's the ICE brand. Is that like what you will be using? Or a different one all together?

 

[sideshow]

not sur ewhat thermo guy gets them from usa
they **** on davis craig for airflow

yer i have a/c its all ok except on a 28 or over day

once heat gets in its hard to remove

even on highway doin 120 the radiator does a **** job
so that has nothin to do with fans

i think big old copper radiators are a thing of the past

aslong as this works ill know in 2 weeks

 

[-Nemesis-]

Yeah it's ideal to test it now too, before the daily temperature starts dropping.

I still think a bonnet scoop will help ease heatsoak don't you? Or would vents work better? Or both......?

 

[sideshow]

depends u want to scope cold air in or hot air out

try this
put 50 mm spaces on back of bonnet just for trial if it works then a scope might be ok

i have a digital temp gauge so i know exact temp of engine

toyota temp gauges are not good as the engine has to basically cook before it sort gets abit hi in the temp gauge

so ill see the exact temp of what the new rad works at

 

[-Nemesis-]

I have spaced it up about 10mm. When it's stationary and the thermo is going i can feel warm/hot air coming out the back of the bonnet. So air is getting out..... There was a rubber weather seal i removed too which helped....

 

[sideshow]

how do u know what temp u are at
have u aftermarket gauge?

10mm wont do much once u drive u get a countereffect swirling off the windscreen so sometimes they might clash

ive removed the rubber
ive even removed the other rubber bits around the inner guards that hang to try get more airflow

i did a job in perth
was a 1uz into a 99 hilux
they ran a diesel alloy rad and a big 16 in fan with a shroud
i think a shroud helps more than any other mod

 

[-Nemesis-]

No I don't have a guage, don't even know what effect it had, but I knew it couldn't hurt......

 

[sideshow]

yr crazy drivin it without gauge thats ok its just a 4wd hehehe shouldnt get hot

how do u know its gettin very hot

 

[-Nemesis-]

Cos when you open the bonnet it fries your eyeballs! hehheeh No you asked if I have an aftermarket one, I meant no I don't have one of them. Just the factory 4Runner temp guage.

99.9% of the time the Toyota guage doesn't even flinch. It was just the other day, which I think I've put down to that airlock. I think the heatsoak would not help things though, especially at low speeds which is what I was doing. I was driving around a small suburb, so there was on and off acceleration, but not much speed so not much air flow.

I think my main concern now is the slow dropping coolant level.

 

[Guts]

I run after market gauge and the standard dash one.

When I start it from cold the standard gauge is write down at cold. Once the motor hits 85 deg cel the standard gauge is up to half and never moves past that even when the after market reads 115 deg cel at which I stop and let it cool down.

When I did my conversion I left the standard 1uz sender in it and just hooked that up. What I need to do to make it read correctly is put a sender in it from a 2.8. Maybe yours is the same thing but you need to run a V6 sender. I just think its funny how Dave has cooked his and you have cooked yours and both are still running the standard dash gauge.

 

[sideshow]

i was thinkin of runnin the factory 22r temp sender but its diff thread i think

anyway i will be importing this new product

its a digital temp gauge with its own sender unit it fits into the 1uz engine same thread as 1uz remp sender

this has a digital readout
and then it had an adjustible settin to trigger a thermo fan

then if u buy the extra oil temp sender it will show oil temp aswell

so this little unit can tell u
water and oil temp
and turn on a thermo at any temp from 70 to 110 with 2 degree intervals
eg 84 or 86 or 88 or 90 etc

so if anyone is keen ill get some

they will be around 120 aussie dollars for unit with water sender

and prob another 20 for oil temp sender

 

[svpmx83]

When I got the motor I posted on here asking what certain components are, and on the drivers side there is a small pipe outlet which everyone told me goes to the overflow bottle. Anyways whilst on holidays and having problems cos of the cracked radiator leaking, I decided to connect it. I had been using the overflow point on the radiator instead. So I unblocked it and ran it to the overflow bottle, and blocked the outlet on the radiator just to see what would happen.

That coolant line is designed to flow from the PRESSURISED overflow tank on the original vehicle and also helps eliminate air pockets in the system. the factory circuit is from the top tank to the reservoir then to the hose on the block and is mainly active when the thermostat is closed. If you want to use it and you no longer have the factory reservoir from the original vehicle - grab one off a ford falcon and hook it up in the same fashion. Just make sure the top of the tank is above the bleed point on the engine.

 

[cebby]

I'm in the midst of my swap also, so this is very important to me also.

I plan to use the V6 rad, but was planning on a decent thermo setup and 3 hood (Bonnet) vents. I plan to use a Nissan Patrol scoop in the center and 2 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited style vents. Here's a pic of each.

Patrol Scoop:

5.9 Style Vents:

Either those or some port-hole fender vents maybe (fan assist????)

 

[twisty_toy94]

so if anyone is keen ill get some

they will be around 120 aussie dollars for unit with water sender

and prob another 20 for oil temp sender

I'll be keen Sideshow....how long do you think it'll be before you will have them?

 

[twisty_toy94]

When I start it from cold the standard gauge is write down at cold. Once the motor hits 85 deg cel the standard gauge is up to half and never moves past that even when the after market reads 115 deg cel at which I stop and let it cool down.

When I did my conversion I left the standard 1uz sender in it and just hooked that up. What I need to do to make it read correctly is put a sender in it from a 2.8. Maybe yours is the same thing but you need to run a V6 sender. I just think its funny how Dave has cooked his and you have cooked yours and both are still running the standard dash gauge.

Jeez, I always thought the dash gauage was atleast almost on the money with regards to the temp of the engine, I guess mine is the same as it mainly sits on halfway, and only moved up a little more when I boiled it.....

 

[sideshow]

this is just what ive come across
but most toyota temp gauge are not very accurate whne gettin hot
its not just me but others recon too
give me a month and ill have these if the demand is there

 

[-Nemesis-]

Mine (guage) seems to work failry well. It moves quickly and easily, and the only time i've accidently got my coolant bubbling the guage had just touched the red. I am using the original V6 temp sender though; When I took the 1UZ sendor out it broke up, so I had to tap a new thread for the V6 one.

 

[jcclures]

I am fitting a 1uzfe in my Nissan patrol and I have been having the same problem with gauges in my Nissan, the Nissan sender cannot fit as it has no thread to screw it in and I have been testing senders that do fit by wiring them up and then putting the sender in a pot and then bringing it to the boil. I have not found a sender which works like the Nissan one.

 

[jcclures]

Out of interest I measured the radiator which came with the half cut which I brought for my 1uzfe, as I would think that would be the smallest radiator that would be required as it would have been built for a colder climate maybe.
The size is 780mm wide 400mm high as a single core at 16mm thick made of alloy and the core spacing is 10mm not like most radiator which have a spacing of 12mm.
Another couple of points are that as you go to a 2 or 3 or 4 core every receding core is not as efficient as the one in front as the hot air from it does not cool as well.

As for the engine drinking the coolant from the overflow bottle it could be that as the engine warms up it expands the water which then can be overflowed out of the bottle, when it cools back down the water is then sucked back into the engine if there is not a big enough reserve the engine then can get airlocks in the motor as well the bottle is then empty.
If this is happening you could try a bigger overflow bottle, I had this problem when I first fitted a 308 into my Nissan.