Installing Megans--what bushings should I buy?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I have already contacted "Vlamos"<the guy in Australia that made the bushings> He said he no longer makes them beacuse production costs became too much to charge---he doesn't have any left in stock either--if Lextreme has any more then they are the last available

I already bought the Arnott front arms---I will buy the 4 lower bushings for the front, the 4 strut cushions for the front/rear, the 2 sway bar bushings and the 4 upper bushings for the rear control arms and 4 lower bushings for the lower rear arms

Did I miss anything? I think that should cover the whole suspension? Do I "soak" the bushings in Mobil 1 red synthetic or just put alot on when installing them?

!!!EXCELLENT INFO!!! spf_lexus & JohnnyStaff I appreciate all the help...I'm sure this is saving me and others alot of money
 
No problem Kev, thats what lextreme is all about... just the facts w/o the fluff/drama. Just slather the grease onto all surfaces... inside and out. When they are pressed in the excess will squeeze out and then you can wipe away the excess. Most of the rear bushings can easily be pressed out with a simple 2-jaw puller.

The rear has a LOT of bushings. I'll try and break them all down:

rear upper arm bushings (4)/arm
rear trailing arm bushings (2)/arm
rear knuckle bushings (4)/hub
rear lower arm bushings (2)/arm
rear lateral arm bushings (2)/arm
rear sway bar bushings (2) sway bar


LS40020Rear20Suspension.gif
 
Damn, that's alot more than I knew of. I'm back to trying to build a "kit" for parts I know little about.

Arnott uppers for front and Daizens "kit" + Daizen's sway bar front and back bushings...will the Daizen and Arnott be everything needed. This is probably best for someone like me that isn't going to do the work, but wants to have every part ready for the guy that is
 
Arnott uppers for front and Daizens "kit" + Daizen's sway bar front and back bushings...will the Daizen and Arnott be everything needed. This is probably best for someone like me that isn't going to do the work, but wants to have every part ready for the guy that is

Thats should be the best route. These multilink rear suspensions can be a PITA when each bushing has to be shopped. Daizen makes a good product overall.
 
Previous posts in other threads showed White Lithium Grease was best to use on the bushings to stop future squeaks---spf_lexus---did you find out that the Mobil 1 red grease was better than white lithium grease or which do you think is best and will stay put the longest and also not harm the bushings Thanks for all the help I just want to do this one time if possible
 
either one is fine. Make sure its synthetic, they last much longer. I know petroleum based greases can eat away at polyurethane so keep that in mind. The Mobil 1 that I use is synthetic.
 
So...this is the weekend I get to have my Megans installed. I read somewhere that the coilovers have to be tightened while compressed to prevent the bushings from cracking as soon they they are installed. I do not quite understand what to watch for. The guy that is installing the Megans says he has lots of experience. I just want to know what to make sure he does or does not do to prevent my new bushings from being damaged.

Can someone explain what exactly needs to happen when installing these coilovers as far as tightening the coilovers or compressing them at the right moment before or after installing---I'm unclear but want to know what he should doproperly

Thanks again for everyones help!

Calikev
 
make sure the installer turns the tensioning collar 1 full turn to keep the seat pressure but thats it. (located underneath the coil. There is a collar for height adjustability and a second one for coil pre-load. I wouldnt mess with the pre-load too much because it increases the stiffness and reduces shock travel. 1 solid turn once the collar is metal on metal.
 
Good stuff as always spf_lexus when you get back in town...drinks on me! You've earned at least that for educating me on all this stuff. The Megans were on another car for a few miles should anything be reset to start from factory settings or not necessary and was that one full left or right turn or does it matter?
 
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Good stuff as always spf_lexus when you get back in town...drinks on me!

Its a deal! haha thanks. Im in the middle of a slow going summer semester so i'm online more than often. Sometimes i wonder if I get on members' nerves due to the fact that I reply to everything and give my $.02 for everything Lol.

The fact that the megans were previously used is actually good news in a way. Usually the coils will "settle down" a 1/2" per corner after a few trips around the block so its usually necessary to adjust the height/preload twice to ensure an even break in.

Since their off the car, just double check that the coil seats are where they should be and then its a simple job of installing them and playing with the spanner wrench a few times to make sure all 4 wheel wells have the same gaps (top of tire bottom of fender lip).
 
I don't know where the coil seats should be? or if he should turn right or left or it doesn't matter? Sounds like everything else is ready to go!

I'm sure I'm not the only one that's grateful that you answer and also answer so quickly. I knew very little before joining and still know little about doing it myself, but at least I can talk as if I know more than I do---LOL---it's does save $ when paying others to do work. People can't just say things that make no sense to me because of this site and your help.

Hopefully, I will really get a chance to meet you and thank you when you get back in town. You have my info in your PM area from when I first joined.

Kev
 
The coil itself is held/tensioned by the coil seat. This is the 1st adjustment ring thats underneath the coil. the one underneath that is just to lock the coil seat in place. Im not 100% sure its called a coil seat.. prob just my word for it. Anyway the 3rd coil seat thats the furthest one down is there to independently adjust the ride height. Its the last ring thats adjusted to actually raise/lower the car.
 
Cool...so once the coils are in unscrew the 1st one a full turn---lock it in place with the 2nd one and then use the 3rd to adjust the hieight for each coil to match the others---do I go back and do anything to the 1st one after adjusting all 4 to match?
 
Once you double check that all 4 coils have been pre-loaded with a full turn they will not require another check, just install and adjust for ride height w/ the 3rd "collar". Thats the correct term hah. The coils have been broken in already because it only takes a few mines to settle coils.
 
Hey cali kev did you get your parts in yet?i got the new control arms in and they were a perfect fit I'm having trouble with the lower control arm bushings though.they are a little to small did your guy have any problems installing them on yours? If so how did he get then in? Our do you have any suggestions spf? I'm kinda stuck with the front end of the car taken apart I'm my drive way and code compliance breathing down my neck saying I have a junk vehicle....
 
Everything is going in this Saturday on mine...sorry I'm not able to help more but spf_lexus will likely give you a suggestion Did you get the Arnott and daizen kit or the ebay or partsgeek bushings?
 
I replaced mine about 3 years ago but im pretty sure you need to keep the the metal "shell" that is press fit into the arm. Did you press the bushing out or burn it out? The SC300/400 front lowers require you to burn out the rubber with a torch, and then clean all the excess rubber on the inside with a stainless brush wheel. If you press out the entire bushing, the new poly bishings will appear too small. The shell im describing is only a millimeter thick and would be just enough to cause a loose fit. If the bushing for sure is too small, you need to save the shells and press them back in so that the poly ones slide inside those.
 
sorry I misspoke, the bushings aren't to small they are actually too big. i left the millimeter sized ring in the arm i figured it should be there because i'm following the lexls tutorial and in his picture its still there. I burnt out the old bushing so theres no reusing it. whats happening is i'm trying to push in the new bushing and the little sleeve on the inside is just pushing out. so what i ended up doing was taking the sleeve out and pressing in the bushing then tried to put the sleeve back in. that didnt work it warped the bushing and pretty much ruined it. now its all warped and swollen and wont fit in even to where it connects to the car. Then i pushed it back out, now I'm stuck with only one good bushing left, oh and i got the upper control arms from arnott and the lower bushings from parts geek. I think they were made just a little too big.


I'm pretty much stuck here...
 
can you post a picture? Its been a while since i did this job. You said the sleeve keeps popping out. If its moving that easy then try installing the bushing w/o the shell.
 
the pictures are what it looks like now, everything is in, but the bushing is swollen out so bad it wont fit on the car. i have the arm sitting in my freezer right now hoping it will all shrink and fit itself....
 

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