Idle Question UZS131 1UZ (Too High?)

[toxsickcity]

Hello,

I have been driving my V8 for 3 weeks now, I love it. I have not had any problems, but have a feeling the idle is high?
I notice the car has a big pushing force when change from Natural, to Drive. My engine idles when in D at about 800-900rpm when in natural usually 1000-1100rpm
Is this okay?

where do I adjust idle on 1UZ?
Is it adjusted with that small screw on throttle (Throttle Stop)???

EDIT:::
Questions also about idle exhaust sounds!?!?!?! weird!
sometimes the idle is the sound of pulsed V8, sometimes at same rpm when in idle, the exhaust sounds not pulsed.
when I put my hand on the exhast tip the pulsed has a pulsed feeling put,put,put....etc,
the non pulse sound has a constant flow of exhaust and sounds stupid!

why is this?
lastly what is correct idle for 1UZ?

thanks
Shaun

 

[sideshow]

sorry cant help u with the miss withpout looking at th ecar
i spent on and off 2 days trying to fix bad idles and misses on a custoemrs car
theres not enough time and space on here to write everything i went thru

but ill let u know what base idle is

its 650 rpm

 

[toxsickcity]

I took the cover of the traction control near the throttle body.

Adjusted the screw on the throttle & the screw next to the position sensor.

I got the rpms down to 850rpm when idle cold and hot is about 650-700.
sounds right? higher rpms at cold!!

sideshow, you spoke about fixing a customers cars idle.
are you talking about lowering the idle? or about how I am having a strange thing happen at idle sometimes the idle has a different sound and more exhaust flowing throu?

 

[MWP]

That cold & hot now sounds fine.

If you continue to have problems though, pull the idle control motor/valve off the front of the intake manifold and give the valve section a good soaking in carb cleaner.

 

[sideshow]

u should never ever adjust that screw on the throttle plate

the 1uz has a very good idle motor only prob is 80% of imported 1uzs have a stuffed idle motor

once u go playing with the stop screws u stuff things up more than fix them
you should research before u touch things

before u touched anythign u should have just blocked the big pipe that feeds air to the idle motor this should make engine stall

ill tell this for everyone

the most common things thta fail on a 1uz are air flow meters and idle motor
if an air flow meter fails then the plugs foul up and this creates a miss
then u go replacing leads and rotors and caps
and all u do is go round in f***ing circles when at the end its a simple fix


finding good 2nd hand idle motors is very hard these days
same goes with air flow meters

here is what i would do try put screw back to where it was
crimp of idle motor hose if engine stalls then idle motor is wired wrong or stuck open
fix this then fit new spark plugs but do not buy the expoensive platinum ones
cause they are **** when trying to diagnose **** as they can foul up much quikcer then cause more headaches
just get a set of bcp5ey i think they are 3 bucks each
then start checking the basics or pay someone who knows what to dowhich is very hard to find these days

 

[toxsickcity]

thank-you sideshow.

I know the air idle valve is ok, as when I first started the engine is was running very low rpms, the connector for the idle wasnt plugged in as I was testing for power and had forgotten to plug it in... once plugged in the idle was fine.

adjusting that screw did nothing for my idle.. as it was already set at 100% minimum adjustment. (Not force the throttle open at all)
anywho, the idle seems okay now maybe I was paranoid.. When Starting cold idle is 850-1000rpm depending on how cold. when hot usually 650-750 rpms
The bloke who installed the motor said it is running on less then 8 cylinders sometimes. As yesterday we test drove it after having the A/C plumbed and gassed!
so that's why the exhaust must be sounding like poo.

I have not changed from the spark plugs that came with the UZ.. BAD I KNOW!! but will be inspecting the plugs on tuesday as it's alot of work to get to the plugs. I will check for dirty connections and I will also look for fouled plugs. The airflow meter might be a problem if I got fouled plugs you say!!..

Can I do a simple check to see if AFM work working correctly other then unplugging it and watching it run crap. or that is the test?

P.S. when it drives I am getting decent economy. I would assume AFM/o2 sensors would be working fine, just maybe a dirty plug or old crappy sparkplugs.

In Thailand engines arnt kept in nice walm dry places, they sit outside in the HOT HUMID weather for months/years, the rain seasons seem to rust some engines up, lucky the engine I got seems to look in very great order, no rusts, the most clean of all the engines.. plus the engine looks in great condition.. very light rust on the water intake for radiator, plus oils smell clean and unburnt. I have feeling this engine is under 50-60,000Ks but 100% under 100,000KM
the bloke I got the engines has a friend in japan to hand select them and other cool crap.
this is the same bloke who I brought my Nissan 180SX. He is a really cool bloke!
I love it here.. my car is a special one.. Where I live there is 1 Supra, No Skylines and maybe 2 or 3 SX's in an area the size of Melbourne & Suburbs
I payed 700,000baht 4 years ago..
today sells for 750,000 hahahaha, sport cars in thailand are a luxary! The 200SX is in very high demand! I get offers to buy the car all the time.

whereas a crappy Honda Jazz type car goes for 700,000 NEW sells for 400,000 after 2 or 3 years hahahha...
GTR R34 costs 2,800,000baht hahahaha very very expenisve
GTR R35 costs 8,900,000baht
8,900,000 = $350,000
2,800,000 = $112,000

cars are so expensive here..
300% TAX on imported cars..
Holden Commodore
56,000 Australian Dollars
after arrive in thailand maybe $150-200K
Thanks again sideshow..