hydraulic fan pump removal, possibilities

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taka21

Member
so im wondering if its possible to just remove the hydraulic fan pump from the front of the motor alltogether.
im not running power steering or ac so im thinking i can just run a belt from the crank to the tensioner to the alt.
im concerned with the bolts that would be missing tho cause i think they help hold the water pump on.
btw i would just run an electric fan(or two) for radiator cooling purposes

also this is a motor out of a 97 sc400
so is it possible?
 
We strip the pump and pully off and leave the rear housing on. I use the pully off the a/c pump and fit it onto the tensioner and run the belt around the crank , tensioner and alternator. I have one at work like that at the moment. Cheers
 
We use the 2UZ (Landcruiser, Sequoia) fan idler and pulley. Not overly expensive from Toyota or eBay and keeps the belt as a standard over the counter item for future replacements
 
We strip the pump and pully off and leave the rear housing on. I use the pully off the a/c pump and fit it onto the tensioner and run the belt around the crank , tensioner and alternator. I have one at work like that at the moment. Cheers
im also looking to drop the weight of the bracket if at all possible

We use the 2UZ (Landcruiser, Sequoia) fan idler and pulley. Not overly expensive from Toyota or eBay and keeps the belt as a standard over the counter item for future replacements
im already running a custom belt due to the fact that i deleted the ac already

also any recommendations on an oem electric fan that will fit our radiators?
 
slight hijack but has anyone tried using the hydro pump for powersteering on the uz?

i know it can be done on the 1jz just need to restrict the flow abit.
 
This has been discussed a number of times but no one seems to have ever done it.

It would be good if it worked but looking at the pump it just looks too small for the job.

Now go and do it and prove me wrong.

That would be good for all UZ'ers.
 
This has been discussed a number of times but no one seems to have ever done it.

It would be good if it worked but looking at the pump it just looks too small for the job.

Now go and do it and prove me wrong.

That would be good for all UZ'ers.

what would it take to do that?
and would it be run with the hydro fan or completely in place of it?
 
ill post the toymods info for the 1jz pump here when i get a chance, hopefully the uz version of the pump is similar.
 
stolen from 1jzracing on toymods

this is how to modify the hydraulic pump which runs the radiator fan as comonly found on the front of most 1jz water pumps to run your power steering, i have done this over 3 years ago and is still working perfectly, you must do it where i

the pumps are the same type and generic pressure but the fan pump is set to have more flow rate. Both pumps have a built in controll valve that keeps the flow and pressure constant no matter what the engine revs are, so by reducing the outlet hole size from the shuttle valve the flow is reduced without loading up the pump or overheating the oil

check the pics the numbers coraspond to the instructions below

1. take off the banjo bolt and outlet hose

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3695&d=1169030579

2. take off the big bolt at the bottom remove the shuttle and spring
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3695&d=1169030579
3. this is the hole at the bottom of the outlet thread which needs to be reduced, drill it out and tap it m8
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3697&d=1169030592
4. screw a very short countersunk m8 cap screw in the new thread with a 3mm hole drilled down the center, you may need to grind down the head a little, like the picture, to fit it down the hole, make sure it doesnt poke through the inside too much and you may need to fit the shuttle and spring before screwing it all the way in, do it up TIGHT!
4. screw a very short countersunk m8 cap screw in the new thread with a 3mm hole drilled down the center, you may need to grind down the head a little, like the picture, to fit it down the hole, make sure it doesnt poke through the inside too much and you may need to fit the shuttle and spring before screwing it all the way in, do it up TIGHT!
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3698&d=1169030597
put it all back together biggrin.png


note: you CAN NOT restrict the flow at any other place such as the end of the banjo bolt this WILL NOT WORK!!! even though it looks to do the same thing. There is a tiny oil gallery about 0.5mm diameter off to the side at the bottom of the outlet hole this controlls the shuttle valve and the restriction must be BEFORE this gallery

If your game to experiment you may find easier ways of reducing the hole such as driving in a little short tension pin or something

this was also in the thread but may not be as relaible.

I wired a car that was setup like this on the weekend but instead of modifing the pump I used a jaycar motor speed control kit on the solenoid. Changed a capacitor in it to drop the frequency to about 100hz and all was good.

Just wound it up until the steering felt good. For anyone that had too much spare time it could be made speed sensive as well.

cool!

now thats a cunning idea smile.png

You might find that the flow is still a little much.

Flow and pressure are two verry different things, the power steering only calls apon pressure as its needed - ie the more effort on the steering shaft the more oil is directed to the piston building relitive pressure instead of recirculating back to the reservoir.

if the flow is too high there can be too much over all pressure in the system as the oil cant pass through the valving servo fast enough, my car popped the seal out of the steering rack at the steering shaft when i hooked it up without the restrictor

the solenoid controller on the hydraulic fan pump may only controll the pressure not the flow - I could be very wrong not sure how it works, if it does controll flow then its perfect!

let us all know how reliably this works, could be a much easier solution

yeah I wouldn't have a clue, it worked perfectly for the 10 min test drive.

As I wound up the speed controller I could here the fluid noise begin like normal power steering does as the air etc gets out of it.

I'm sure i'll hear about it if anything explodes in the future
 
thor racing do a delete kit, removes everything except the alternator, has a new idler, and has covers to replace the fan pump and old tensioner
 
I have completely removed the hydraulic fan pump and would like to know if anyone has been able to get rid of the error code it creates.

Ive been testing the solenoid on the fan pump to see if I can replace the solenoid with a resistor to simulate a working fan pump. Has anyone tried this?

So far I know the solenoid has a resistance of 8.4 omhs and draws 12v @ 1.5 amps
 
I have completely removed the hydraulic fan pump and would like to know if anyone has been able to get rid of the error code it creates.

Ive been testing the solenoid on the fan pump to see if I can replace the solenoid with a resistor to simulate a working fan pump. Has anyone tried this?

So far I know the solenoid has a resistance of 8.4 omhs and draws 12v @ 1.5 amps

odd thing about that. I've worked on several 1uz swaps now, and some of the hydrofan motors throw a code, and some don't when you remove the hydrofan assembly. Mine doesn't. It's out of a late 94 sc400. My friend rich's is a jdm, i think it's a celsior?... and it has a code thrown for not having the hydrofan assembly working.
 
Try a 10k resistor. I used one of these for my EGR purge valve solenoid.

Tried a 10ohm 25w resistor today and still had an error. I stripped back some of the wires to the solenoid and measured ohms while the car was running. It read 128ohms @ 3v, so i may try another resistor. I'd really like to avoid pulling the light on my dash, but its so ANNOYING.
 
odd thing about that. I've worked on several 1uz swaps now, and some of the hydrofan motors throw a code, and some don't when you remove the hydrofan assembly. Mine doesn't. It's out of a late 94 sc400. My friend rich's is a jdm, i think it's a celsior?... and it has a code thrown for not having the hydrofan assembly working.

I dont think the ECU for the SC400 gives codes when you pull the fan, pretty sure its only an issue for the LS. Maybe the solution is install an SC400 ECU, but Im not sure if the pin outs are the same. Checking now...
 
LS has a standard belt driven fan so no sensor to worry about. When I deleted my sc400 pump and swapped with an LS400 bracket, I never saw a code but I suppose its possible. Maybe a small year-to-year change with the ECU?
 
When you swapped the LS pump in did you plug any connectors back in?

With the hydraulic fan on the LS there is a solenoid on the pump bracket which causes an error light to come on if its unpluged.
 
Nope, I let the extra plug hang unplugged.

I dont know what gen your referring to but all LS400's do not use a hydraulic fan. USDM models have a simple fan clutch to but no hydro system. Maybe the Celsior uses the same as the soarer/sc?
 
ls400's definaely don't use a hydro fan here in the states, that's only in sc400's and gs400's. But I dunno in canada. I've noticed that the celsior engines are closest to a ls400 engine, but has the hydrofan setup. Maybe that's what he has.


on my sc400 engine, i just left the plug dangling there. no codes.
 


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