my intro.hey all i am james from the south coast NSW,found this forum by chance and am enjoying reading the conversions u all have been doing a lot of what u talk about goes over my head still i am very impressed with the work i have seeen.mine is an 89 x cab 2.4 petrol motor still runs but its just about to die i havent been driving it for obout 6 months and i have to get it back on the road. i was first wanting to by a stat write off 3.0 v6 4 runner and swap motor,gearbox and whatever i needed then thought later model 3.4 v6 and then came across this forum and saw all the 1uz 4.0 swaps would really love do it but dont have the funds at the moment so brings me back to the v6 swap i would think the 3.0 would be pretty easy???? does anyone have any ideas/info/experience on putting the later 3.4 into the earlier hilux or maybee putting my perfect x cab body onto the later chassis or maybee the 4 runner chassis any info would help thanks James. :happysad:
hilux x cab 3.0 3.4 or 4.0 ?????
- Thread starter femur
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
i think the 1uz might be cheapest
they are cheap to buy
i recon a v6 would cost more to buy
both will need wiring
both need exhaust
and all the fidly s**t
if you dont have the funds then dont do anything thats what i tell most customers heheheheh
another thing i recomend is goin manual if u go a 1uz
ive dont many 1uz into 4runners which originally had a v6
and ive done a new 3.4 v6 into a 92 hilux
they all cost alot fo money if u cant do stuff yourself
nothing is straight forward
the shop that did the 3.4 has closed so not sure how hard it was
but wiring took me all day
but most engines 2nd hand that are not imports will prob cost more than a 1uz
they are cheap to buy
i recon a v6 would cost more to buy
both will need wiring
both need exhaust
and all the fidly s**t
if you dont have the funds then dont do anything thats what i tell most customers heheheheh
another thing i recomend is goin manual if u go a 1uz
ive dont many 1uz into 4runners which originally had a v6
and ive done a new 3.4 v6 into a 92 hilux
they all cost alot fo money if u cant do stuff yourself
nothing is straight forward
the shop that did the 3.4 has closed so not sure how hard it was
but wiring took me all day
but most engines 2nd hand that are not imports will prob cost more than a 1uz
thanks
thanks 4 the info wat do u think about boby to chassis, as i could do most of myself R+R ,not wiring or exahaust,i still think my cheap option is the 3.0ltr 4 runner as a stat write off, maybe ABOUT $ 1500 to buy:happysad: then swap the engine g box and watever is needed could may b change whole wiring loom if it is needed :werd: i dont know what to do,still any ideas on later 3.4 chassis i guess 97 onwards???? to 89 x cab,any ideas would like to buy later model stat write off with 3.4 v6 + chassis and put my x cab body on it .:shock: lol any ideas my cheap option again thanks any ideas please thanks James .:no: later
thanks 4 the info wat do u think about boby to chassis, as i could do most of myself R+R ,not wiring or exahaust,i still think my cheap option is the 3.0ltr 4 runner as a stat write off, maybe ABOUT $ 1500 to buy:happysad: then swap the engine g box and watever is needed could may b change whole wiring loom if it is needed :werd: i dont know what to do,still any ideas on later 3.4 chassis i guess 97 onwards???? to 89 x cab,any ideas would like to buy later model stat write off with 3.4 v6 + chassis and put my x cab body on it .:shock: lol any ideas my cheap option again thanks any ideas please thanks James .:no: later
Oh, my, god. The SOHC 3.0L 3vz-e V6 in the 87-94 truck platform is the worst "modern" engine Toyota has ever put together. It has no redeeming quality.
NOT to be confused with the 3.0L DOHC 3vz-fe found in the cars.
The other '87 v6 that's just 2.5L and DOHC from the cars (2vz-fe) makes practically the same power. It's that bad!?!?!?!?
The head-gaskets are the good 'ole post first generation asbestos ban. They're easy to roast IF you overheat the engine, and they will blow almost every single time too. The great news, is that because it's roughly a 300lb bottom end, and how the coolant system routes... Basically you don't know you're overheating until it's too late. The shear amount of mass on the bottom end will let the coolant boil, then cool back down before it exits the block & get's to the post- engine coolant temp sensor.
To contribute to that, they use the worst header / crossover design... Ever... It doesn't just kill off around 20-25bhp (Which is SUBSTANTUAL on a bearly 150bhp engine), but it's so restrictive it causes massive amounts of heat in the #6 cylinder because it can't scavange the exhaust quickly enoguh.
This leads to superheating of the #6 exhaust valve, and not only do you destroy the valve, the head gasket blows betwene the #5 & #6 cylinders fairly predictably.
Now on the other hand... The 3.4L 5vz-fe is a great engine. It's a Toyota truck engine. Which means that it has massive torque on the low - mid range powerband, but it also has a relatively low redline & fuel cutoff (5200-5800rpm).
They're very good with boost. Provided you put a Multi-Layer-Steel headgasket on them for safety if you're really going at it. Otherwise you want to stick to sub 14psi. That way you keep the *peak* effective comression ratio under 13:1. Which is what I have accepted as good for the old gaskets.
The 5vz-fe is a great bottom end. It's your typical vastly overbuilt old school Toyota v6. Stock engines have been hitting 500-550bhp for years.
There are only a few 1uz-fe truck platform swaps that have floated around. Namely because most people with a 22r, 22r-te, or 3vz-e either do a 5vz-fe, or a 7m-gte swap.
They you've also got people that have been doing the 4.0L 1gr-fe, and 2uz-fe swaps more rescently
Of the lot I'd take a 5vz-fe, or a 1gr-fe. Prefferably with a single turbo on the way into the truck.
NOT to be confused with the 3.0L DOHC 3vz-fe found in the cars.
The other '87 v6 that's just 2.5L and DOHC from the cars (2vz-fe) makes practically the same power. It's that bad!?!?!?!?
The head-gaskets are the good 'ole post first generation asbestos ban. They're easy to roast IF you overheat the engine, and they will blow almost every single time too. The great news, is that because it's roughly a 300lb bottom end, and how the coolant system routes... Basically you don't know you're overheating until it's too late. The shear amount of mass on the bottom end will let the coolant boil, then cool back down before it exits the block & get's to the post- engine coolant temp sensor.
To contribute to that, they use the worst header / crossover design... Ever... It doesn't just kill off around 20-25bhp (Which is SUBSTANTUAL on a bearly 150bhp engine), but it's so restrictive it causes massive amounts of heat in the #6 cylinder because it can't scavange the exhaust quickly enoguh.
This leads to superheating of the #6 exhaust valve, and not only do you destroy the valve, the head gasket blows betwene the #5 & #6 cylinders fairly predictably.
Now on the other hand... The 3.4L 5vz-fe is a great engine. It's a Toyota truck engine. Which means that it has massive torque on the low - mid range powerband, but it also has a relatively low redline & fuel cutoff (5200-5800rpm).
They're very good with boost. Provided you put a Multi-Layer-Steel headgasket on them for safety if you're really going at it. Otherwise you want to stick to sub 14psi. That way you keep the *peak* effective comression ratio under 13:1. Which is what I have accepted as good for the old gaskets.
The 5vz-fe is a great bottom end. It's your typical vastly overbuilt old school Toyota v6. Stock engines have been hitting 500-550bhp for years.
There are only a few 1uz-fe truck platform swaps that have floated around. Namely because most people with a 22r, 22r-te, or 3vz-e either do a 5vz-fe, or a 7m-gte swap.
They you've also got people that have been doing the 4.0L 1gr-fe, and 2uz-fe swaps more rescently
Of the lot I'd take a 5vz-fe, or a 1gr-fe. Prefferably with a single turbo on the way into the truck.
Femur,
To start with can you change your profile to show where in Australia you live. This will influence some of the responses you'll get.
Personally I would do the UZ swap with a CRS or Dellow bellhousing.
All pretty well bolt together and there are drawings for engine mounts on this Site.
Wiring is easy if you use a Crown ECU.
Do some searching and you'll find the answers.
I estimate the swap could cost anywhere between $3,000 and $5,000 all up, depending how much you do yourself, for the swap.
To start with can you change your profile to show where in Australia you live. This will influence some of the responses you'll get.
Personally I would do the UZ swap with a CRS or Dellow bellhousing.
All pretty well bolt together and there are drawings for engine mounts on this Site.
Wiring is easy if you use a Crown ECU.
Do some searching and you'll find the answers.
I estimate the swap could cost anywhere between $3,000 and $5,000 all up, depending how much you do yourself, for the swap.
thanks for your input rod,i have just changed my profile to show exactly where i am,have been searching forums for the last couple of weeks and found heaps of info maybe too much, found the engine mount drawings and think i could make them myself and any other metal fab,cutting welding needed,do you know if engineer will pass if i make my own mounts or how long my gearbox will last,89 hilux chain driven transfer or if i use the dellow bellhousing for this gearbox??? can i use the same bellhousing on a stronger gearbox???the only other thing that i worry about is the sump in my IFS ute.the mods needed,have read that body lift will help to clear everything, or modify the sump????i guess.nearly convinced to do te 1uz swap,should i buy complete front cut or engine and all the parts i need,do you know i can buy one. thanks again.James
Femur,
I'd give my back teeth to live in such an idylic spot as the Bay. Damned jealous now.
As long as your welding looks good the engineer will pass them. If you're concerned why not provide the drawings to the local engineering shop and have them make them up.
As for the bellhousing have a look at the Dellow Site as there is plenty of information there.
Your existing box will work OK but again read what others have done.
I would always buy the half cut as you will have everything you want and some stuff you don't need. You can sell off the transmission which can offset some costs. Other parts like suspension etc can always be sold as well.
In the Tech Section at the front of this Site there is a write up on wiring the Crown engine. Dead easy with a manual transmission.
I haven't heard of anyone who was unhappy with the UZ swap into a Lux or Surf.
Have a ring around the import wreckers fo the half cut.
If you're not in a hurry I get the odd complete written off Soarer through and they sell for around $1500.00.
I'd give my back teeth to live in such an idylic spot as the Bay. Damned jealous now.
As long as your welding looks good the engineer will pass them. If you're concerned why not provide the drawings to the local engineering shop and have them make them up.
As for the bellhousing have a look at the Dellow Site as there is plenty of information there.
Your existing box will work OK but again read what others have done.
I would always buy the half cut as you will have everything you want and some stuff you don't need. You can sell off the transmission which can offset some costs. Other parts like suspension etc can always be sold as well.
In the Tech Section at the front of this Site there is a write up on wiring the Crown engine. Dead easy with a manual transmission.
I haven't heard of anyone who was unhappy with the UZ swap into a Lux or Surf.
Have a ring around the import wreckers fo the half cut.
If you're not in a hurry I get the odd complete written off Soarer through and they sell for around $1500.00.
So we've decided to do a 1uz swap instead of a 5vz? Ah come on man. There's a guy in Canada making ready to go turbo manifolds for the 5vz's. 
j/k. You can't go wrong with any swap, aslong as it's not a 3vz-e, or has an R in the engine block designation. (I'm sorry, but those are too old. Even the new truck i4's dyno more than the king 22r-te ever did.)
j/k. You can't go wrong with any swap, aslong as it's not a 3vz-e, or has an R in the engine block designation. (I'm sorry, but those are too old. Even the new truck i4's dyno more than the king 22r-te ever did.)
cheers Zuffen,batemans bay is definately a nice place to live do you get here often?thanks for your reply i am not in too much of a hurry but would like too make my mind up and start within the next two months or before, maybe on the road early next year???i will keep looking into what has already been done with the gearbox and the sump and other things people have run into with this conversion. does your buisness send write offs to auction or some sort of tender,anyway give me a yell if you come across one i could use,or maybe even 5vz hilux,have you heard of anyone using these in early hulux.thanks again.and thanks aswell toysrme.later
Femur,
I drop through the Bay when I drive to Melbourne the scenic way. Probably only every couple of years.
Read everything you can before heading down the conversion route.
A bit of time reading can save you money and time working on the car. You should be almost able to have the whole conversion set up to be a couple of days work if you have the engine, engine mounts and trans sorted and know what you're doing with the wiring.
We write off 3 or 4 Soarers a year.
I haven't looked into what's the best motor for your conversion but Crown half cuts are cheaper the Soarer half cuts but with Soarers you get the jewellery, panels and suspension parts to flog.
I drop through the Bay when I drive to Melbourne the scenic way. Probably only every couple of years.
Read everything you can before heading down the conversion route.
A bit of time reading can save you money and time working on the car. You should be almost able to have the whole conversion set up to be a couple of days work if you have the engine, engine mounts and trans sorted and know what you're doing with the wiring.
We write off 3 or 4 Soarers a year.
I haven't looked into what's the best motor for your conversion but Crown half cuts are cheaper the Soarer half cuts but with Soarers you get the jewellery, panels and suspension parts to flog.
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