High flow? Supercharger manifold.

[Cobber]

Well the die grinder came out on the weekend and I started porting my Richwood supercharger manifold. I have not match ported it by any means. All I have done is put a radius on the inside port edge for less turbulence.

Before
View attachment 9409

After (still some cleaning up to do)
View attachment 9408

The main difference between the two manifolds is the new Bullet manifold effectively has short runners built in and cast radius corners to the runners.

View attachment 9406
View attachment 9407

http://bulletcars.com/superchargers/toyota/budget-toyota-1uz-v8-supercharger-system.html

Just a hypothetical question and no stone throwing please. I don't have both manifolds or access to a flow bench otherwise I would do the comparison. The main thing I want to understand how the manifold runners or not make any difference.

The question is:-
Will I notice any difference between
1 Richwood un ported
2 Richwood ported
3 Bullet un ported
4 Bullet ported

 

[JustenGT8]

I have both manifolds and sat them side by side for a few comparions.

To answer your questions first. Yes you will notice a difference between ported and unported with both the the difference will be much much larger for the Richwood manifold.

Other observations. The Richwood manifold is a heap heavier than the Bullet one...maybe 3 times as heavy. I can't see that this make much difference to anything other than perhaps the Richwood one is more durable under a high boost (more load on SC) scenario.

The Richwood 'runner' are shorter than the Bullet ones so theoretically they will cost you a little bottom end and potentially give you a bit more up top. Not much in it though so i doubt you'd pick much difference on the street.

Both manifolds are reasonably well made but have their little fitment issues. Nothing serious, just a bit annoying.

Nice work on the porting BTW....i have x2 Richwoods sitting in my garage awaiting the same treatment

 

[Cobber]

Thanks Justin,

So a shorter runner you loose bottom end and gain it at the top.

Is this to do with the air having to start and stop every time the valves open and close?
Harmonic pulse being bigger in a longer runner manifold?

I will post the results when she's all done but I won't have a base to compare it to.

Thanks for your kind comments on my port job.
Allow half a day and a six pack per manifold just to radius the inside of the ports.

 

[Zuffen]

Cobber,

If you look in the corners of each port you will see a little flat area between the manifold wall and your radiused ports.

This flat area will cause some loss of flow but what you have is much better than the standard manifold.

I'm having that flat area welded and then I'll port it into a radiused corner which should net me some flow.

You'll also have noticed the ridge above the ports.

I've ground that down until it is almost a straight line from the top of the manifold to the end of the port.

There's a lot of meat that can be removed to improve the flow.

My "head man" has given me instructions on what I'm to do so later this week (hopefully) I'll have it back welded and I can start with the die grinder.

I've put in a lot of hours so far and expect to go a whole lot more before it's done.

Once done I'll post up photos.

 

[JustenGT8]

Thanks Justin,

So a shorter runner you loose bottom end and gain it at the top.

Is this to do with the air having to start and stop every time the valves open and close?
Harmonic pulse being bigger in a longer runner manifold?

I will post the results when she's all done but I won't have a base to compare it to.

Thanks for your kind comments on my port job.
Allow half a day and a six pack per manifold just to radius the inside of the ports.

Yup, a combination of the harmonics and the mass of air in the runner. It gets very complicated quickly but the torque/runner length is a good rule of thumb.

 

[Cobber]

Thanks guys, at least I kind of understand the concept of port length when tuning. I used to do a lot of work in a VW workshop where the owner raced formula V and off road buggies. I remember having to cc the inlet ports and make up spacers to sit under the carbs. Back then I did it just because I was being paid to do it with not a lot of interest why.

I will do some more blending of the back corners a bit more. There is a lot of material to remove the upper ridge above the port so I don't think I will bother with that just yet my restriction will be cams and head porting.

 

[Zuffen]

Cobber,

You can remove 5-6mm of that ridge and it will have a big effect o airflow.

 

[Cobber]

Ok you have convinced me I will get busy with the die grinder.

 

[mshawari1]

I am thinking about this,

Could some give simple instruction supported with clear pictures of How to port 1UZ heads?

Let me ask also:

-Is it better to make the port more straight long the cylinder movement axel?
-Is it better to do it as the parabolic shape in one side or oval or circle shape?

pardon me for such question but I need to clarify the idea.

 

[Cobber]

Not going to port the heads here just the supercharger manifold.

There is a good thread on head porting just do a search.

Spent another 4 hrs with the die grinder this afternoon. If nothing else the manifold will be a lot lighter.

Pictures to follow.

 

[Cobber]

Still some more work to do with a small flap wheel but it looks a lot cleaner flow now. I have merged the back corners a bit more too.

I hope I get more KW's out than I have put in......

View attachment 9430

Compared to the top original picture it's quite a change.

 

[Zuffen]

Cobber,

I could never work out what the ridge was for.

Certainly things look a lot better without it.

 

[scotturnot]

Nice work! Looks like I better get busy on mine again.

 

[JBrady]

Cobber,

I could never work out what the ridge was for.

Certainly things look a lot better without it.

Guessing it was designed early as the boss for the bolt holes. Looks like the designer placed material accross the entire bolt plane to allow any bolt location that may become desired.

It looks like a much better plan to remove it, lower weight, remove obstruction.

 

[Cobber]

Ported & polished

There is plenty of material in there to remove.
View attachment 9460

Here is the final version after a day in the shed on the weekend with the polishing wheel.

View attachment 9459

The ports have been cleaned up a bit more on the inside as well.

I think that's about as good as I will get it.

Next stage is to blow some air into it...... but that's a whole new thread.

 

[Cobber]

Thanks Hypronet,

That's quite some build you have there.

Looking at that picture of your manifold on the heads I still see an opportunity to clean up around where the fuel injector is. There is quite an undercut in that area.

I think I need to get the die grinder back out again and sit the manifold on an old engine.

 

[AeroPC]

Richwood manifold

I did hack mine out a lot, but was a little reluctant to take the ridge out. Seemed a strength issue for me when the burst panel goes boom. There is room to grind the injector area out (I dont use that EFI area). You can see my new down nozzles in place of the Enderle ones.

PC

 

[Cobber]

Paul,

There is plenty of material where that ridge is. Because your not using the injector ports there is even more material you can remove from the head and the manifold.

Just think of the weight saving.....

View attachment 9511

 

[AeroPC]

Manifold

Cobber

Yes I know that but both my sets of heads are finished and all wrapped up - I was happy with that for now. I have a serious PSI blower on top and can put as much air as I wanted in. I was mindful of trying to maintain some wall thickness everywhere. The Piranaha's with their blown alky Lexus Hotrod blew their Richmond manifold into a million pieces when a burst panel went. Plus you loose gasket contact area if you take too much out. I am using over 40lb boost - need all I can get to keep it in.

PC

 

[Cobber]

Point taken, contact area would be minimal without adding material in that area.
Might be time to start thinking about some billet heads and a billet sc manifold to go with the block.