Help with driveshaft : Celsior output

[Me_3]

Anybody got any ideas on how to build the driveshaft to suit from the celsior box (3 fingered output shaft) back to the diff?

I assume I will need a slip joint somewhere on the shaft?

The falcon had a one peice driveshaft with the slip-joint in the gearbox.. of course this won't work on the new setup..

Can I get a two peice shaft made and install that without having to mount a center bearing or anything? (2 Peice shaft, with the slip-joint in between the two shafts?)

Not quite sure on how to go about this stage..

Help

Thanks,

 

[krayn]

I had the same problem. I wanted to use a slip joint in the tail shaft but the buisness I took it too said that it can be done, but ballancing one of these can be a problem and getting it to run smoothly would be easier to convert the rear of the tranny back to a slip yolk type. So thats what I did. Lucky a mate of mine builds Auto trans and did it for parts cost only, Around $200.

 

[Peewee]

If you have an IRS car, you can just use the rubber donut, but I'm guessing you have live axle?

In which case get the rear of the box converted to standard slip yoke.

You can use any 1989-1992 Cressida gearbox to do this.

 

[Me_3]

If you have an IRS car, you can just use the rubber donut, but I'm guessing you have live axle?

In which case get the rear of the box converted to standard slip yoke.

You can use any 1989-1992 Cressida gearbox to do this.

The local tailshaft guy was suggesting that I install a center bearing, and run a similar setup to the 2wd hilux...

I wonder what it would cost to get the gearbox bits and do it that way so I can keep the slip-joint..

 

[Peewee]

Here is what a friend said when he changed his over.

OK, last night after work I stripped down my 7M A340E gearbox from my Grande.
Was a lot easier this time. I did this last year and I was following the supra.nl website as reference. This time around I had the shaft out in 45 minutes, after I had cleaned it in the Robowash. Having the right the tools makes a **** load of difference.

The website does a few extra things that are not necessary. They removed the No.1 Clutch and planetary gear-set(big unit mounted mid way). This doesn't need to be removed at all. Just undo the circlip and pull the shaft out. They also put a 7M clutch pack back in because it looked different to the unit form the A341E. As the internal part of the output shaft is identical, I'm nearly 100% sure this wasn't nessesary. Just throw in the new shaft and retain every thing else.

Also, the two small tubes that need to be removed first before removing the valve body are for lubrication of the extension housing white metal bearing(near the rear oil seal on the ext. housing). They mention they are for a clutch pack, but they are not. The two tubes feed oil to the rear housing via two small holes drilled out just below the output shaft.
On the A341E these holes are not used as the coupling is a fixed flange and not a moving slip joint. This is where my problem lies, the A341E valve body does not supply oil to the small holes hence will not feed oil to the rear bearing of the 7M extension housing. The supply holes are simply blocked when the A341E valve body is screwed back down.

 

[madmont]

The A341E valve body has a hole which lines up to one of the holes in the casing for lubrication of the extension housing. The drive flange off a A340H [four runner auto] transmission will attach to the output shaft of the A341E and then you can bolt on a Hilux universal joint after you cut off the protuding end of the output shaft. You will need a different oilseal as the diameters are different.
No need to dismantle the transmission if you do it this way.

 

[Me_3]

The A341E valve body has a hole which lines up to one of the holes in the casing for lubrication of the extension housing. The drive flange off a A340H [four runner auto] transmission will attach to the output shaft of the A341E and then you can bolt on a Hilux universal joint after you cut off the protuding end of the output shaft. You will need a different oilseal as the diameters are different.
No need to dismantle the transmission if you do it this way.

So if I can get the output flange from an auto 4 runner, it will just bolt on and allow me to run a standard slip joint?

Adding the center bearing looks like its going to be a total f**kfest with reguards to keeping the engineer happy, so the slip joint might have to happen...

 

[Peewee]

This is what someone else did

http://www.reanimotion.com/ToyMods/images/DSCN0229.JPG

 

[madmont]

That is the general idea. You will be able to use the hilux driveshaft with slipjoint on one end suitably modified with ford parts on the other end. I would expect the two piece shaft to be better balanced than the one piece unit. I built a two piece driveshaft using 3 cv joints etc from 3 vn commodore driveshafts and put it in my Hilux and the engineer did not comment. Consult your friendly local man who is going to inspect your conversion and ask his advice regarding two piece tailshaft.

 

[Me_3]

This is what someone else did

http://www.reanimotion.com/ToyMods/images/DSCN0229.JPG

Yea.. thats what the tailshaft guy in cairns was recomending...

The problem occurs in the fact that my car never ran a centre bearing like that and thus needs to be mounted somewhere...

This will require more engineering to be approved, and apperently I need to get approved 'plans' done up for it along with other crap.. :/

I guess i'll ring the transport department tomorrow...