Pro
New Member
Lextreme has an adaptor for a T400 - any chance i could get measurments David?
will try for a powerglide as well.
gearbox adaptor plates.
- Thread starter Pro
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Lextreme has an adaptor for a T400 - any chance i could get measurments David?
will try for a powerglide as well.
Lextreme has an adaptor for a T400 - any chance i could get measurments David?
will try for a powerglide as well.
striker
New Member
not suitable for a front engined car but nevertheles
1uzfe - porsche 930
1uzfe - Porsche 950
1uzfe - porsche G50 older
1uzfe - porsche G50 new + 4wd
1uzfe - Renault UN1 transaxle
1uzfe - Renault UN5 transaxle
1uzfe - VW bus box
1uzfe - mendeola
1uzfe - reynard
Grtz Thomas
1uzfe - porsche 930
1uzfe - Porsche 950
1uzfe - porsche G50 older
1uzfe - porsche G50 new + 4wd
1uzfe - Renault UN1 transaxle
1uzfe - Renault UN5 transaxle
1uzfe - VW bus box
1uzfe - mendeola
1uzfe - reynard
Grtz Thomas
Attachments
bankrup3000gt
New Member
I would like to get the files for a 1uzf/t56 , and 1uzf/t5. If you have them you can email me at [email protected]
Thank You
Corbitt
Thank You
Corbitt
Lambo
Moderator
Drawing for 1uz to un1
Hi Striker, I have a 1uz joined up to a 016, but have been thinking about changing to a un1, to escape the useless 016 1st gear issue,would you be able to send a copy of the un1 and un5 that would be a great help. Sorry i don't have a drawing for the 016 it was custom made up but i could measure it up if someone could convert it to cad format.
email [email protected]
Best regards
Lambo
Hi Striker, I have a 1uz joined up to a 016, but have been thinking about changing to a un1, to escape the useless 016 1st gear issue,would you be able to send a copy of the un1 and un5 that would be a great help. Sorry i don't have a drawing for the 016 it was custom made up but i could measure it up if someone could convert it to cad format.
email [email protected]
Best regards
Lambo
Id really like to get hold of that un1->1uzfe plate dimensions too. It would save me a ton of trouble to just have the bolt positions etc to put in the mill to cut a plate out...
Lambo, not sure the un5 will be of much use to you. The un5 variant has a *really* low diff ratio and the diff bearings are a different size to the un1/369's, and nobody makes a aftermarket diff for them. They also come with two bellhousing patterns depending on what year the donor renault master van was.
Lambo, not sure the un5 will be of much use to you. The un5 variant has a *really* low diff ratio and the diff bearings are a different size to the un1/369's, and nobody makes a aftermarket diff for them. They also come with two bellhousing patterns depending on what year the donor renault master van was.
edz
New Member
accurate measurements
Okay - this may be obvious to some, what is the best way to measure centre to centre accurately with large items like bell housings? I'd hate to get the measurements wrong and make a bellhousing only to find it did not fit. Edz
Okay - this may be obvious to some, what is the best way to measure centre to centre accurately with large items like bell housings? I'd hate to get the measurements wrong and make a bellhousing only to find it did not fit. Edz
striker
New Member
hey Edz
turn down the correct amount of bolts down into a very sharp point, place those bolts into the bellhousing, put the belhousing down on a piece of new alloy sheet, and tap the belhousing around the bolt heads very gently so the points leave a mark. you have now got a template of the bolt pattern.
if the holes are not tapped, I usually turn plugs on the lathe that fit perfectly into the bellhousing holes, and centerbore them with a 1mm drill bit, I then tap the plugs into the bellhousing, put the "to-be" adapterplate on the housing with strong C-clamps and carfully drill the 1mm holes through using the plugs as a guide for staightness.
this is by far the quickest way to do very acurate work, but takes some time and you do need to have the right tools. best thing is you don't need to draw anything.
other way is to measure up the outer edges of 2 holes and calculate the lentgh inbetween them by taking of 1 hol diameter.
best obviously is to get it measured up by someone with a laser or pointfeeler(whatsit in english) CNC like bench, out comes a file that can be read by most CNC machines and you can go in production at once.
grtz Thomas
turn down the correct amount of bolts down into a very sharp point, place those bolts into the bellhousing, put the belhousing down on a piece of new alloy sheet, and tap the belhousing around the bolt heads very gently so the points leave a mark. you have now got a template of the bolt pattern.
if the holes are not tapped, I usually turn plugs on the lathe that fit perfectly into the bellhousing holes, and centerbore them with a 1mm drill bit, I then tap the plugs into the bellhousing, put the "to-be" adapterplate on the housing with strong C-clamps and carfully drill the 1mm holes through using the plugs as a guide for staightness.
this is by far the quickest way to do very acurate work, but takes some time and you do need to have the right tools. best thing is you don't need to draw anything.
other way is to measure up the outer edges of 2 holes and calculate the lentgh inbetween them by taking of 1 hol diameter.
best obviously is to get it measured up by someone with a laser or pointfeeler(whatsit in english) CNC like bench, out comes a file that can be read by most CNC machines and you can go in production at once.
grtz Thomas
XR8tt
Active Member
Yes so far I have used some 1mm alloy sheet..
Lucky that crank and Powerglide dia is the same..
After cutting hole in sheet the same size as centre ..
Fitted it to motor, drilled holes each side where bolts are and fittted some tight bolts with big washers.. Then drilled the other bolt holes including dowel if there is any on motor side...
On the Powerglide [GM 2 speed auto] I started at dowels, then drilled out holes for auto.. I made them 2mm larger and used metric sized bolts so there should be no clearance issues..
Done much the same with torque converter..
I used 13mm X 100 mild steel plate to adapt between the two..
There is approx 30mm gap between 1UZ bolt pattern and Powerglide which is larger.. I had to cut a small circle out at top of adapter plate to clear starter motor.. From memory I have reversed the bolts that go through starter motor so I don't have to pull adapter off to get to starter motor bolts.. By using larger bolts, drilling out starter motor threads and tapping motor..
Did I have to explain what a Powerglide is ??? Lol..
Lucky that crank and Powerglide dia is the same..
After cutting hole in sheet the same size as centre ..
Fitted it to motor, drilled holes each side where bolts are and fittted some tight bolts with big washers.. Then drilled the other bolt holes including dowel if there is any on motor side...
On the Powerglide [GM 2 speed auto] I started at dowels, then drilled out holes for auto.. I made them 2mm larger and used metric sized bolts so there should be no clearance issues..
Done much the same with torque converter..
I used 13mm X 100 mild steel plate to adapt between the two..
There is approx 30mm gap between 1UZ bolt pattern and Powerglide which is larger.. I had to cut a small circle out at top of adapter plate to clear starter motor.. From memory I have reversed the bolts that go through starter motor so I don't have to pull adapter off to get to starter motor bolts.. By using larger bolts, drilling out starter motor threads and tapping motor..
Did I have to explain what a Powerglide is ??? Lol..
1uzfe scott
New Member
Im also ater the t56-1uz i any one could please send it to me ? [email protected] thanks guys
