Cost to build a 500hp FI engine

[Zuffen]

I have some rough calculations as to the cost to build a 500hp supercharged engine. These figures work on the basis of rebuilding the engine with new pistons, cams etc.

The costs are in Dollars Australian and are as follows.
• Engine $1,000.00
• Boring $250.00
• Head Studs $500.00
• Pistons $1,600.00
• Bearings $300.00
• Gaskets $400.00
• Porting $1,200.00
• Cams $1,500.00
• Oil pump $300.00
• Supercharger $2,200
• Manifold $800.00
• Fabricate idler system $500.00
• Autronic $2,500 (fitted)
• Intercooler pump $200.00
• Intercooler radiator $300.00
• Air intake $300.00 (air filter etc)
• Boost gauge $75.00
• Fuel Pump $500.00
• Headers $600.00
• Exhaust $1,200.00
• Fuel Pressure reg $125.00
• Tune $500.00

Total 16,850

This assumes you can do the engine build yourself. I won’t do it but I can get it done for $500.00 by my mate the Ferrari mechanic.

On top of this list you could put:
• Rods $1,000.00
• Cam belt $150.00
• Water pump $250.00
• New hoses $200.00
• New ignition wires, rotors, caps $400.00
• Engine mounts $300.00

This is another $2,300.00

Total $19,150. That gets it running. Once running you will have a heap of dyno time plus a few changes of pulleys on the supercharger (at $100.00 per time plus belt)

Don’t forget to factor in something for the clutch, transmission, differential & axles.

So bargain on $20,000.00 to do it properly. Of course this engine could give well over 500hp but let’s not get carried away.

 

[Lextreme II]

Here is my DIY budget for the single turbo
1. Stock motor
2. Copper Gaskets for decompression - $160 USD
3. ARP Studs - 390
4. Fuel Pump - 130
5. Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator kit - 275
6. Injectors 390 cc/min - 250
7. Turbo (T70) Master Power - 750
8. Tial Wastegate - 300
9. Tial BOV - 250
10. Turbo header about -$600
11. Intercooler 650
12. pipes - 150
13. Silicone hoses and Clamps - $150
14. Installation - $1000
15. Misc Exhaust pipes - $500
16. Split Second ECU - $450

Even its DIY, the total is $6,005. If labor is included.. i would not suprise to see 10k.

I do most of the work myself and it still cost me about 6k. Who is complainting that FI is costly?

 

[quadcam boat]

I'm with Lextreme. At $1200 aussie dollars an engine, I'm keen to see how far a stock engine can be pushed! For me, 4 bolts, a few hoses and a wiring loom plug and my engine is out, so I'm not so worried about blowing one. My engine is in a boat, thats why its so easy. On the other hand I can see why other poeple will spend large amounts of money on their engine because reliability is far more important in their application. In a boat, I'm thinking 500hp could be achievable on a stocker with the availability of plenty of low temp cooling water for intercooling and high octane fuel to controle detonation. I'm not aiming that high though, myself.

 

[Zuffen]

Looking at the $20,000.00 that gives you a brand new engine built to take 15-20lb of boost.

It would be starting with low comp (8.5:1) pistons so should last a fair while.

Removing and replacing my engine is a real trial. I have 16 prop shaft bolts! I worked it out one day I have over 100 bolts to remove to get the engine out of the car. I even have to remove the front bumper & headlights!

QCB,

I think your idea of pushing the stocker to the limit is good. I'm tempted to see what mine will do but I'm a little worried about damaging bits I will need for the next engine.

I think $20,000.00 is cheap if you can get 600+hp reliably.

Lex,

Your $6,000 is $9,000 Australian.

 

[Lextreme II]

I have three engines at home and i would like to push the stocker like 4CAMS. If we can make 500 rwhp just with a set of Gaskets and Studs. That is big news. I had a leak down test on my current engine and it only have 2-3% lost. Therefore i have a pretty good condition stock engine. It would be a waste to do a forged internal until the stock engine max out.

However, I would like to get a forged internal parts someday and push the engine beyond 20 psi. My current goal is 15 psi. I have ran 15 psi before on this engine and no problem at all. I would not be suprise if the stocker with low compression gaskets and studs can hand 18 psi.

Hell if have 20k AUD i would do a complete build, but not now..... Rod, can i borrow some money from you?

 

[turboandrew]

Here's what I am looking at for a 4.6 twin turbo:

1999 GS 400 engine $1600
new cylinder liners (94mm) ~$1500
94mm 8.5:1 pistons ~$1200
2 x Garrett GT dual BB turbos $2600
2 x 44mm TiAL WG's $730
304SS header flanges $135
misc 304SS pipes $500
misc turbo parts $250
larger injectors or supplemental methanol injection: $500
AEM EMS $1600
Wide Band O2 $350
adjustable FPR $200
CNC'd flange for Getrag 6 speed to 1UZ $500
Aluminum flywheel $30 (ebay special)
Spare 92 SC400 1UZ for mounts, harness, oil pan $500
2 x stock 93+ Supra intercoolers $150
Aluminum IC piping $100

$12445

Wow, I wish I did not add this up! Good thing is, I have a lot of this already. I am looking to make 700 rwhp on 18psi and should I attempt it, 1000 rwhp on 30 psi.

 

[Zuffen]

Lex,

My wife has the money. I just spend it.

TA,

Your $12,450 is $17,750 on our current exchange rate! You have swapped new liners for my head work. So the costs are similar.

I would love 700RWHP thats about 350 RWKW.

 

[Lextreme II]

Andrew..

you forgot the 6 speed transmission... that is about 2,200

 

[Drizt]

I would love 700RWHP thats about 350 RWKW.

700rwHP equates to 522rwkW

or if you meant

700fwHP equates to 522fwkW

VERY ROUGHLY SPEAKING rwHP approximates to fwkW

therefore you can roughly assume that 700fwHP approximates to 522rwHP or 390rwkW's


which were you refering to ?

 

[turboandrew]

Andrew..

you forgot the 6 speed transmission... that is about 2,200

True, I guess I forgot because I already have that. Also, some other possible expenses:

full head port with oversized valves $4000
cams $1500

 

[Zuffen]

700 Flywheel horsepower equates to approx 390 RWKW. Still adaquate.

I have spoken with another 1UZ modifier and his feeling is the engine specified in my thread could produce 800hp at the flywheel!

Pity Turboandrew will have more if his plans work out.

 

[Miles B]

There are stock 1UZs + copper gasket in boats pushing over 600hp, running WOT and lasting a whole season. I think with the level of built motor you are talking about (add rods), a lot more than 500hp is possible. I would think that motor would be good to high 20s psi at least.

I don't think cams are worth the investment in the amount of power they will return. Especially when only shooting for 500hp on a built motor. Just add a pound and save 1500.

Why the new oil pump? I have heard the 1UZ has a pretty big one already?

$500 fuel pump? Get a Walbro for 150.

$1200 exhaust? Shop around or get a welder.

I'd drop the pistons, boring etc. I plan on shooting for about 500 without most of that work. Just studs and gaskets.

 

[quadcam boat]

There was a twin turbo lexus pushing out enourmous power on the drag strips in WA. It was featured in Zoom Mag a while ago, can't find the edition at the moment.... It was in a yellow corolla I think? Stock motor from the wreckers he claimed, but had ice box and air to water setup, and 2 big turbos. Anyone remember the horspower quoted?

By the way, there is a lot of talk about head studs. Are they know to be a weak point on these motors, or is it just a peace of mind thing?

 

[Zuffen]

Yep a ski boat that lasts a season would just about see me drive to Melborne and back(2000km/1200mile round trip for non-Aussies) when I want a motor to last 50,000km.

Like, life what you pay (within reason) is what you get. If I want cheap Scotch I drink Corio (Aussies only) if I want quality I pay 4 times as much for Dymple and don't need to mask the taste with coke.

We need to look at what we are trying to create. A drag motor that is rebuilt after every run or something I can get into turn the key drive for a few years with performance to burn.

Miles,

I think you have a point but at 20lb another pound will demand fuel you cannot purchase. After all if you spend the best part of $20,000.00 on an engine $1,500.00 won't make much difference to your bank account. Think what you will spend keeping the rest of the drive line together.

This thread is designed to show what it really costs to "do it properly" for long term motoring.

If we gave our motor to a race team amd said give me 500 they would give you a bill twice the size.

I think the concept of see what it can do before it blows is cool. I just don't want to keep arriving home on the back of a tow truck. The neighbours will laugh. Hell they allready do!

 

[Miles B]

Rod,
I just don't think you will need 20psi on a stock motor to hit 350rwkw, which is about my goal. There are 2.5 and 3 litre 1j and 2j motors hitting 325rwkw at a hair above and a hair below 20 respectively. With our extra displacement, I'm hoping for 16 to 18.

I don't see why forged pistons would make it last longer? If it's not pinging, it's not pinging? There is little doubt the stock pistons can take it..? Plus, forged pistons with their greater required tolerances due to higher coefficients of thermal expansion.. I would think they would be more likely to wear rings and bores...

I guess I didn't make the boat motor example clear.. the 1UZs are lasting a season, vs built Chevys and Fords, with rods and forged pistons, which last a single race.

My point of view is, why spend another 2 or 3 grand strengthening a motor that is only worth 1k, and will probably last anyway? Plus, if I screw up tuning it, or screw up building something and it goes lean under some crazy set of circumstances I didn't foresee, I'll blow either motor. Better to lose a cheapy.

I really don't see it as a case of "doing it properly".. that's what people said about the 2JZGE + gasket + turbo guys, and many of those motors are over 100,000 km on now. I think Toyota did it properly for us. I feel I would probably create more problems than I would solve, pulling this motor apart anyway.

 

[tweaked]

Get this guys, in Perth Street Car mag, Vol 10 #1.
9 sec. Celica!
First run - 9.5. Best time of 9.235 @ 147.05 MPH. 525 RWHP @ 15psi! UNOPENED MOTOR!!
Sure, 2 Garrett GT30's and some pro exhaust and intake stuff, but unopened.
Water to air intercooler, 115mm throttle body, custom plenum, an over kill of a fuel system (1700's, 3/8 line all round, etc.) Motec M48, powerglide, STANDARD HEAD STUDS!...The best time was acheived at 20psi.
I saw it do a display run in which they decided to wind the boost up to 23psi. halfway down the track, it hit the wall. What happened was, to much boost, heads lifted, dropped coolant and oil and broke traction, BANG!..
The motor is said to be put into another car with only head studs being changed..
The car was registered and compliant, running pump fuel.

There you have it, proven punch!
Just dont winder her past 19psi and make sure you re-tension you head bolts!

 

[Lextreme II]

can we get a copy of that article? Love to document this!

 

[tweaked]

You might not want it verbatim, there is alot of wishy washy crap facts used to fill 2 pages. I have picked out the facts that had any significance. Shame really, I have alot of questions about that car or engine rather. I have a slightly down market setup to him and was curious to what gave the most HP gains. I know the BB turbos were supplied by Per4manz Turbos (tools!) and the other work was done by SST, who I know dont know much about much and charge alot for it. The setup would have cost him about 15K, give or take a few K...
Back on subject,
I have gotten all the needed parts at a cost of 7K. That price being at bargin hunters and trade prices. Now I just need to put it all together. If a workshop were to do it, it would be around 4K in labor plus parts (New and retail parts prices would come to about 11K or so).
The stock motor has all the add-ons for 500+ but I am yet to get a HP figure of course. Will sure as hell post it when I get it!

 

[turboandrew]

The main reason I included pistons in my build up was to lower compression. And I figured, while I am at it, why not go to 94mm bore like the 2UZ. If the stock compression were 8.5 : 1, I would not touch the inside of this motor until I hit over 800 rwhp.

BTW, anyone have specs for the rod length differences for 1UZ vs 2UZ? If I can just put in 2UZ rods to lower compression (assuming they are a little shorter because of its longer stroke) then I can maybe avoid the whole custom piston purchase and save a lot of money.

 

[Lextreme II]

1UZFE Specs
2UZFE Specs