Cooling problems on my V8 Hilux

[v8toy1]

i gave mine an absolute caning in the bush/sand/water/mud the other week in 2wd (no front shaft at the time) and it didnt get hot once the fan kicked in for about 5 mins once and thats it.
was a real good hot day here too i live in FNQld and its pretty hot most days and humid too
it even sits in the driveway for ages on end just idling away without the thermo cutting in

mines an ally aussie desert coolers radiator, dual bypass style and genuine toyota coolant, with a single 12" davies craig thermo and shroud to suit on the inside as a pull setup

stewy

 

[dar_sbb]

hey guys,

im currently running a standard (rebuilt) diesel radiator with twin push type thermos on the front of radiator. I dont have cooling issues but im sick of the noise it produces.

So i have decided to cut the whole front out and move the radiator forward and run an engine fan with shroud and one thermo in the front running on a dedicated switch... just incase while out bush.

what parts do i need to get to run this? is it just the fan idler bracket bolted to my standard pulley?

this is a pic of mine atm (only difference is intake is a custom box now)


cheers
Darren

 

[samsdad]

Well if you have a Crown or LS400 type fan idler pulley the easy way to get an engine driven fan is to try and get one from the UXJ100 Landcruiser. Or you can run the same idler and not cut the front out, Fit a 16 inch slimline spal pull type fan on a thermo switch (relay wired to a live feed with the switch on the earth side) and have your additional fan on the front. I run the spal fan and it's what I fit to all the conversions (Bar one where she wanted the biggest radiator that could be fitted, well the customer is always right even when you know that they're wrong). Thing is unless I'm standing at the front of the car with the engine running for normal on road driving you can't hear it. Mine rather than a "Fan switch" runs when the fuel pump is but does have provision to be able to be turned off for water crossings (hang on I'm in WA. Water crossing? What's that?). My reason for doing them this way was aside from the obvious hoses needed to keep the A/C as close to stock as possible

 

[samsdad]

Sorry typo error there UZJ100 Cruiser

 

[dar_sbb]

Thanks again simon.

Had a look today, it's a hydraulic fan ass. Good news is I've left all the pulleys and what not on the car, so I just need to find or get a fan to bolt on to.

Do u or anyone have the dimensions of the fan and clutch?? Just so I know how much to move radiator forward

Cheers Darren

 

[DJVRV6]

The land cruiser fan isn't much good as it is offset forward a long way,the crown fiscous fan is the way to go,you can't use other fans(4runneretc) as they all spin the other way.
Cheers

 

[samsdad]

Good luck on finding a Crown Fan, not so much the fan clutch itself but the fan blade assy. Plus unless you shift the engine back you're going to end up with the radiator sitting where the grille is meant to be or spend a huge amount of coin on a custom rad. Use the Spal fan and get a fitting for a suitable fan switch fitted in your rad. Wire the fan switch up on the relay on the earth side (with a dash switch in-between so you can turn it off if needed e.g water crossings) with the live sides of the relay hooked up to constant 12V. In other words "keep it simple stupid". Hell if it were a simple matter to fit an engine driven fan to these we'd all have them. I choose not to alter the body or chassis when doing the conversions.

 

[Bushwhacker]

I use one of these as a 'pusher'......
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/16-RADIATOR-C...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item588df18e1f

Controlled by one of these.......
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/ADJUSTABLE_FAN_CONTROLLER_THERMOSTAT_STAT

on a 3.0 diesel Surf radiator in all my conversions, the temps never go above 90* whether stuck in traffic or hooning it around.

 

[dar_sbb]

cheers guys

i have a good look on the weekend. As mine is the hydraulic pump version, it still has all the gear on it except the clutch and blade. (i did have it when doing the conversion but tossed it as i didnt need it... damn me!) But moving the radiator forward the amount i want means the bonnet wont close.

bushwacker, with one of those 16" ones, how is the fan noise? My twin 10" ones atm, while they cool well... sound like a tornado!!! So do your cool well and keep the noise to a minimum?

 

[Bushwhacker]

cheers guys

bushwacker, with one of those 16" ones, how is the fan noise? My twin 10" ones atm, while they cool well... sound like a tornado!!! So do your cool well and keep the noise to a minimum?

When it's running it can't be heard above the engine noise if that helps.
I fit an LED next to the temp gauge so I know when the fan is on whilst driving.

 

[dar_sbb]

sounds good enough for me, mine turn on and u can hear them down the street!

 

[DJVRV6]

The guys at PWR in QLD are really helpful in this area even when you only buy the fan from them. i had my motor sitting way back against the fire wall(10mm gap) with some massaging to the a/c box and condenser inside the car, also where the hand brake is got massaged about 20mm back into the cab(v6 4runner type).i used a HJ 75 landcruiser alloy core radiator in the normal posistion (no body lift) i used a crown fan with the l/c shroud (exact fit) most of the time but it does zap a bit of power comparred to a thermo fan. with the thermo install i had fan on a shroud sitting 10mm off the radiator , where the fan wasn't i had sqaure holes cut about 100mm x 150mm to allow air flow when on the move,there was also rubber flaps over the holes so when 4wd ing the fan would draw through the radiator and not take the easier route of being sucked through the holes,the thermo setup was nearly as good as the fiscous fan, the only time it ever got hot was when i drove up mt hotham in vic towing a jayco van on a 40 degree day.The flap set up is how the Nissan titans and toyota tundras are set up it works really well.a alloy radiator of any sort is also the way to go.i hope any of this info helps.

cheers David

 

[dar_sbb]

thanks guys for all the info.

what im gonna do:

im still gonna move radiator forward, but run a wider but shorter aluminium radiator.
gonna run one of those spal 16" thermos with my current temp switch (with a manual override switch for water crossings... im in vic... there is always water lol.)

now, my current setup, diesel rad with twin 10" thermos (push type infront of rad) is doing the job but noise is a big factor issue and i have near zero room to fit a thermo infront of motor. So as i have decided to move it forward, i hence will gained a heap of room to run a/c coil, the extra thermo incase and oil cooler.

now this is all justified on measurements. But if i can get the thing to just quieten down and have a backup thermo i will be happy.

cheers again guys!

 

[dar_sbb]

thanks guys for all the info.

what im gonna do:

im still gonna move radiator forward, but run a wider but shorter aluminium radiator.
gonna run one of those spal 16" thermos with my current temp switch (with a manual override switch for water crossings... im in vic... there is always water lol.)

now, my current setup, diesel rad with twin 10" thermos (push type infront of rad) is doing the job but noise is a big factor issue and i have near zero room to fit a thermo infront of motor. So as i have decided to move it forward, i hence will gained a heap of room to run a/c coil, the extra thermo incase and oil cooler.

now this is all justified on measurements. But if i can get the thing to just quieten down and have a backup thermo i will be happy.

cheers again guys!