Cold starting...

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
For those of you looking to wire up the CSI

Just correcting my earlier post...

Here is a link to a doc from toyota covering toyota injection and cold starting:
www.autoshop101.com/forms/h22.pdf

My earlier pic (in post 15) was rubbish so here's an extract from the doc above explaining how it works. Basically all you need to do is find the wire that needs 12V when cranking and all of the other wires should be correct in the engine harness.

Muzz
 
Thanks Muzz..but I have that sorted now:icon16: ..Only thing is I think the Water temp sensor was stuffed from the start:bigeyes2: ..got a new one in my hands now:arms: to go in and IT SHOULD make all the difference to running and starting etc..read through the diagnostic report and most things brought up the water temp sensor as a problem to my problems..so fingures crossed it sorts itself out:smoker: ..cheers all will keep ya'll posted on outcome..:swordfight:
 
OK Boyz an Girls...Knowing that what I'm asking is Sideshows and Glovermans business:wall: ..here is what I've done and I'll to explain it so as to not give out too much and seeing as the info IS on the diags..

Ig Relay= on = powering B/O on IG Main relay..powering the ignitors,coils,injectors..as seen in the sc diagram.the way i see this is it's sole purpose:fingersx: .
Ig Relay = start = obviously start starter motor,also sending a sig to pin 77(STA):ok:
EFI Relay = on = here's where things get a bit lost..I think because that a curtain pin is NOT giving power(maybe a loose pin or is waiting for something else):hmmm: :wtf: What I have done is power this externally and I get the enine to run and power everything as it should BUT not from the ECU.
Fuel Relay = obvious powers fuel pump,hydrofan etc.

Everything runs fine when warm:newangel: ..BUT when cold it doesn wanna start and is like a pig:bsflag: ..(I think the pin the EFI relay is suppose to be powered by is not giving power on the ECU-hence I have powered it ext..)If I could get the power from the ECU as per diag..then I can re wire the relay and It should then give me power and also the critical thing..resetting the ISCV after turning off(Cold start)
I've spend probably over 30 hours in total going over and over the diag and it all points to the ECU powering the EFI relay(I'm not getting power here)Am I missing something,could it be a loose pin,ecu buggered..?basiclly the engine runs beautifull when warm and I have no complaints..cold is another storey-any ideas..I hope I've tryed to paint the picture of what I've done..any help would be great..Cheerz..:feedback:
 
theres a black/red on the m ain engine harness

powers idle motor and auto solenoids and canister solenoid

and oxy sensor if 4 wire

because this is on main harness alot of people miss it


im not sure what else it can be

i hate diagnosing on internet because everyone is so vague and when i explain it it goes over their haed

anyway i dont mind helping a tiny bit

just never ask me for diagrams unles su have a spare 5 grand hehehehehehh

30 hours fuk meeeee

u could have sent me loom and it would be done in 6 hours

another thing is depending what model 1uz u have they can have sligght

differneces in diagrams

so make sur eu have correct ones

and the last plug on the ecu that comes from the dash
is this the matching one
 
OK guys..I'm pretty sure that I have got everything sorted now..starts up almost first time when cold and even runs straight after instead of dieing and not running..(like when the choke is not on)I have noticed that I'm getting better economy,starts,and I originally wired up a few things not quite right..Big thanks to Sideshow and Gloverman for pointing me in the right direction and motivating me to correct this without spelling it out..
Things I have mod'd
1 = switch on the fan ecu for Mud control..LOL:scared1:
2 = switch to power setting(not sure if this does anything-monitoring it):fingersx:
3 = moved ignitors into cabin area for better weathering..:08:
4 = fixed raditor leak- now running even colder and in confunction with fan ecu switch I can control temp better-fan is actually running better now as well..not sure why!!:ugh:
5 = I have dropped a relay-only running 3 now:22:
My best advice is to get the right diagrams to start off with-this really makes it a lot easier to get things right..:fingersx:
 
Wee update..had a wire shyt itself and so it began again..Cold start failed..:argue: Popped the ecu out and had to trace all the wires yet again to find it..weird as it is..the wire triggering the cold start had actually stopped working???(between the soldered joint and the crimp..)Fixed and replaced and starts up first time again..but no rise in revs..mmmm I''m thinking..OMG.:rant: .will pull it again and check everything...Might be because I thrash it off road it just shakes the Bejesus out of it..LOL..will keep ya'll posted..cheers
PS I have noticed that a few pins become loose and I have to sqeeze them tight ..something to remember..:Eyecrazy:
 
whats the name for the sensor in lower radiator.can i get it somewhere besides the dealer(my local dealership is a jerk to deal with) thanks guy trule831
 
whats the name for the sensor in lower radiator.can i get it somewhere besides the dealer(my local dealership is a jerk to deal with) thanks guy trule831
It's the temp sensor for the temp/hydrofan ecu..this tells it what it's doing..should be able to pick one up cheap..second hand..
 


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