Castlemaine Rod Shop Toyota V8 Conversions

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

CRS

New Member
Hi

I am from The Castlemaine Rod Shop in Victoria Australia and have been put onto this Forum by a couple of members. We manufacture bellhousing, adaptor kits and so on for the Toyota V8 engine.

I have joined this Forum to help its members with any questions, info or technical enquieries that i can about the Toyota V8 and our products.

So if there is anything i can help anyone with let me know

Regards

Greg Moon
Castlemaine Rod Shop
 
Greg - you're going to be a busy guy! My first swap will be an auto, but someday I plan to do a manual into an FJ40
 
Greg, I bought a CRS bellhousing for the W58 about 18months ago (BH106A)

A couple of things I've noticed about it.

1) You didn't drill 2 holes for the inspection plate

2) I have a feeling the clutch fork pivot point is positioned to close to the pressure plate (I am yet to compare to a factory bellhousing), but this just could be a fact that I am not using the CRS flywheel which the bellhousing was probably designed for.
Basically my release bearing has always got pressure on the pressure plate, and it only takes 5mm of clutch travel to begin disengaging the clutch. I am just going to machine the release bearing carrier to overcome this.

3) The spigot bush is a B!TCH to remove, mine ended up like this the other night, after drilling and cutting and forcing it.
IMG_2022.jpg



Apart from that, 2 thumbs up for a top product!
 
Thanks for the feed back

1) Not sure about the inspection plate holes will check our bell housing and our info, what inspection plate were you trying to fit ?

2) Check your thrust bearing hight measure from tip of radius face of bearing to face that mounts aganst clutch fork and let me know your thrust bearing may be too long. With our clutch kit (all new kits come with a 1950 Flbs clamp load pressure plate now) flywheel and thrust bearing we dont have a problem.

3)To remove spigot bush/bearing fill the bearing and back of crank with grease, than find a piece of solid tube that fit snug into bearing hole and hit the end of the tube. This will create hydrulic pressure behind bearing and force it out. You may have to fill the hole a couple of time to get ride of air and so on, Do this and its easy !

Peewee said:
Greg, I bought a CRS bellhousing for the W58 about 18months ago (BH106A)

A couple of things I've noticed about it.

1) You didn't drill 2 holes for the inspection plate

2) I have a feeling the clutch fork pivot point is positioned to close to the pressure plate (I am yet to compare to a factory bellhousing), but this just could be a fact that I am not using the CRS flywheel which the bellhousing was probably designed for.
Basically my release bearing has always got pressure on the pressure plate, and it only takes 5mm of clutch travel to begin disengaging the clutch. I am just going to machine the release bearing carrier to overcome this.

3) The spigot bush is a B!TCH to remove, mine ended up like this the other night, after drilling and cutting and forcing it.
IMG_2022.jpg



Apart from that, 2 thumbs up for a top product!
 
Thanks for the feed back

1) Not sure about the inspection plate holes will check our bell housing and our info, what inspection plate were you trying to fit ?

2) Check your thrust bearing hight measure from tip of radius face of bearing to face that mounts aganst clutch fork and let me know your thrust bearing may be too long. With our clutch kit (all new kits come with a 1950 Flbs clamp load pressure plate now) flywheel and thrust bearing we dont have a problem.

3)To remove spigot bush/bearing fill the bearing and back of crank with grease, than find a piece of solid tube that fit snug into bearing hole and hit the end of the tube. This will create hydrulic pressure behind bearing and force it out. You may have to fill the hole a couple of time to get ride of air and so on, Do this and its easy !
1) Inspection plate off the autobox. The bellhousing just needs 2 holes drilled and tapped to fit the plate

2) Will check that when I am refitting it

3) It was an option but I didnt have a rod around with the right diameter. It still required to be hammered in (hammered, not tapped), so I'd be quite suprised if the grease method worked.
 
Pewee, even a bit of dowel will work, I have even ground down a broom handle or built up a drift with tape to make a snug fit and it gets the little buggers every time, Greg ,good to see you joined, I ordered a kit from you and mentioned this site to you
 
With a normal bearing I have no doubts that method works.
But a normal bearing only needs tapping in. The bush needs hammering in, at least mine did anyway.
 
hey greg hows things

its jim here
used to work at sss if u forgot hehe

hey i used yr custom sump

does a great job

only prob is since mine is a 2wd hilux the sway bar hits the auto gbox and the sump plug area

i am gettin a custom sway bar which i would have needed anyway due to the auto bellhousing being in the way


but when the car goes up the std sway bar would havemoved forward into the sump plug and back of sump area

most of the guys using yr sumps would be 4wd guys so its prob not a major thing

the inside of sump is very nice
 
Hi Jim

How could i forget you !!!!

Can you fax me a drawing of mod's needed and if we need to we will make 2WD & 4WD sump

Thanks

Greg
 
Greg
This is Eric from Texas. Bought the 1UZ to R154 Bellhousing and flywheel. Bought it based on Peewee's recommendation. I agree with Peewee on the inspection cover. Other than that, I must say it was one of the best purchases I ever made.
 
Hey Greg,
This is Wes from the EHCCNSW (EH Car Club nsw) i am the Secretary of the club and i am about to embark on installing the 1UZ motor and Auto gear box into my EH. Iwish to purchase the Eng. crossmember and the Trans tunnel that you guys have there at CRS, could you please advised me on fraight charges to westen Sydney post code 2761.
thanks heaps i will be placing the order some time in the comming week
 
Hi Wes

We have fitted a couple now to EH-EJ here and it is a little tight but dose fit no problems, we have redesigned the rack kits to be rear steer for better ackerman angle and better steering lock, let me know if i can help with any other questions

regards
Greg Moon
Castlemaine Rod Shop
 
How much torque can the clutch kits you sell for the 1uz handle? Would it suit for an engine with forced induction?

Eivind
 
Hi Eivind

I have just recently changed the pressure plate we use in the kit to a new lower overall height pressure plate with 1950 flbs clamp load. (Current Landcruiser V8 has 1800 flbs standard) This pressure plate is in standard form and can be modified to about 3200 flbs clamp load.

Hope this help
Regards
Greg

200sx-v8 said:
How much torque can the clutch kits you sell for the 1uz handle? Would it suit for an engine with forced induction?

Eivind
 
Greg
i am chasing an engine mount kit to suit a toyota hilux 2wd, and a sump, also curious if a turbo350 auto box would work with a lexus V8, just for the ease of wiring.
 
Hi Nathan

Thanks

Greg
nathan said:
Greg
i am chasing an engine mount kit to suit a toyota hilux 2wd, and a sump, also curious if a turbo350 auto box would work with a lexus V8, just for the ease of wiring.
 
Hi Greg,

I bought a bellhousing kit for a W58 from you around Jan 2004 and now that I have an LSD in my Soarer I've found the clutch slips a little on fast up shifts or from a hard takeoff. I'm not into dragging so I only tried dumoing the clutch once and it just slipped without engaging.

What clamping pressure would I currently have if it's an older kit and what would you recommend for an uprated clutch? I don't want anything extreme (so no solid centre or puck-type clutches) as I have to drive in Sydney traffic.

Thanks.
 
Greg, what have you got for a 1uz + TKO600 combination? I'll be running FI so i'll be wanting some serious clampage from the clutch....

please let me know what you have that might be useful to my conversion.
 


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