Can anyone ID this ECU? And help with gearchanges

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vaughan

New Member
Hi everyone.

I have picked up an unfinished 1UZ into 91 Surf project. It runs but wont change gears. running A3041LE



Can anyone ID this ECU? I am having trouble finding a wiring diagram that matches, i want to check the speed sensors.

Or is there something else that could be preventing gearchanges?

Thanks alot
 
The 50170 number on the end makes it a late 92 to Sept 94 model UCF11 Toyota Celsior ECU , it is also a 4 row unit not a two row like the earlier Celsiors from 89 to Sept 92 , take in mind that the ECU changed again for the 94 Oct update to a UCF21.
I believe the same year in an LS400 was a 50160 as it has eactly the same pin out.
 
pic is too small
but looks like one i did the other day for shop in tassie

number on one i did ended in 240
 
Thanks! thats a start. I still cant find a wiring diagram that has
34 22 16 28p. I have been working on this thing since november, have read countless forums and really want to drive it!

So what could the problem be?

Speed sensors - they appear to be wired as per the standard loom, and match this diagram.

The no.2 sensor has been fitted to the extension housing with the matching 4 prong rotor.

Throttle position sensor - i tested this as per the instructions here http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/tps.html and seems to be working. But cant really check if its wired correctly without the right diagram!

Speedo - this is mechanical from the transfer case, but has an electrical component in the dash. I heard that this needs to be hooked to the ecu. Maybe this is missing?

What else would prevent shifting? Kick down cable? that is there.

Im stumped!
 
what auto are u running
if u are running the surf auto then yr fukttttttttttttttttttt
ive done afew surfs and i tell people that if u run the surf auto then it wont be right

another thing is are u 100% sure the rear 2 wire output shaft speed sensor is fitted correctly in the transfer case
i know of guys doing this mix and match and the sensor is 1 or 2 mm off and it will cause headaches

anyway u dont need the diagrams
just learn to use a multimeter and prob the 2 speed sensor wires form gbox up to the ecu
its not to hard
there is 2 speed sensors they both have 2 wires and both piars of wires are twisted all way to the ecu
so look on yr ecu plugs and find the 2 pairs
one is green and a red wire
other is maybe purple and yellow
 
i fukming hate those image sites
1 in 50 links might actually work
anyway i know the plugs the ecu has

put an oscilloscope on the rear speed sensor
if u get a sinal then pronblem is elsewhere
the rear 2 wire speed sensor control the gear changes so i recon that sensor might not be fitted or alligned correctly
as this usually happens when mixing and matching autos to trnasfers
 
sorry sideshow i missed one of your posts.

i have chacked the wires at the ecu and they are connected to the plug. the diagram was so that i could be sure that it was connected properly. they look to be part of the original loom.

any idea how much gap should be between the cam/reluctor and the sensor? maybe that is out of line or too big a gab. maybe i could remove no.1 sensor and check the gap there?

unbelievably i found an oscilloscope at work! but hasn't been used for many years and nobody knows how to use it. it has more buttons than an aircraft! maybe ill figure it out.
 
just use a multimeter
thats the prob with half the guys out there
they are fuct when they have problems
not many people know how to diagnose
just check for a pulse at ecu
1mm gap should be ok 1.5 mm max
anyway if tried many times to fix these sort fo problems for cusotmers
ends up being a fuking massive job
its so easy to stuff up calculations on the housing
and half the time the jobs are done so rough
anyway try the multimeter
thats all id suggest
might be something else but most fo time bad changes are due to speed signals
 
That is an interesting link there . He has used all the pictures I posted on this forum 2 years ago
http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5906&highlight=transfer

Make sure you connect the speedo speed sensor to the ecu for proper changing of gears

Madmont, That is my write up and I did give you credit for the photos. Your camera was better than mine. I originally did the writeup as I got sick of answering questions on that forum about my conversion. Your thread was what originally convinced me to go with an auto conversion, so I am very grateful, as it has turned out great and was simple and cheap to do, so thanks.
Ric
 
have had a bit of a play around with it, limited time atm.
found which wire is meant to be connected to the speedo signal from the instrument cluster, wasn't connected so i hooked that up and got gearchanges!

problem now is that there is very little drive. even in low range it strugles to get over a piece of pine framing. seems to get worse as it gets warmer, only about 50 metres and a few minutes. started to shudder a bit towards the end of the testing too.
 
more testing done.

connected everything as it should be and went for a drive, 3.6km.

stopped halfway for 20 min at a mates place who has a hilux that he is currently putting an efi holden 5 litre in.

drove kinda ok there, still wont rev very high under load and still doesn't have the right amount of drive. promising was that it changed gears and even downchanged when i floored it. Bad was that when coasting with no throttle some times it makes a grinding noise.

the exhaust is poor, small and leaky and sounds no good, cant get over the induction noise tho! snorkle will put an end to that tho

when returning home was very slow to pull away from a stop, and really struggled to drive up short mild hills. engine would rev ok, no drive. Engine up to about 85 degrees.

made it home and it seems somewhere on the trip reverse fell out!
huh.gif

when shifting from park to rev the car jolts forwards a little then sits there like it is in park. All the rest of the gears, N included, drive the car forwards
undecided.gif


looked under car and there was atf on the transmission tunnel near the front of the box. Where would this come from? Box was very hot to touch (probably normal?) and level was ok, fluid looks ok but smells bad. Not sure what burnt atf smells like but maybe like this. What if it is overfull?

So, new box time??
 

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I had a auto once where the band had welded itself onto the drum. Would go forwards but you could not even push it backwards.
 
the scary thing with starting conversions for first time is problems occuring afew minutes after it
with a hundred or so converison wiring a year i am the last guy to work on these so i have to start them
so im always weiry
i start car then turn it off after 5 seconds
if its drivable i drive it up and down driveway then its customers car
i wont road test

but just a thought is

road testing cars with noisy enhausts and intakes and jobs half done can always turn to ****

noise is worst culprit
if there is a problem u cant hear it
so unless exhaust is quietened and intake quuitened on any job run for 1st time i have 2nd thoughts on road testing it
most converiosns that come to my shop are down in back yards
so u can imagine some of the jobs i have to look at hehehhehe

hey how do u know its changing gears
the car might be taking off in 3rd if its very sluggish to take off
anyway u need another auto so hopefully it will cure yr problem

the ecu needs one of 2 speed signals
the one from the back of the auto 2 wire type thats in yr transfer adapter
of the one that comes from speedo
as long as u have one of them it should change gears
the 2 wire one is the proper one and the speedo one is the backup
 
i finally tracked down another gearbox. while the casting looks the same, apart from the new one has a 10 on the top in the casting, the old one has 18.

both have A3041LE on the plate, the old one has 93G, the new one 92E.

the problem is that the plugs are different. they are both 9 pin, and the colours seem to match apart from one black/yellow wire that is only black on the new plug. can i just swap the plugs over?



on the back the original has 8 pins, 6 on the other. again some colours match. will leaving two off cause issues? will the different model box work with this ecu?




hope this doesn't cause too many issues.
 


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