500Whp low boost 700Whp high boost project

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

MonsterTriton

New Member
Gents,
i live in thailand, bangkok,
i purchased a 1uzfe-early model,
i have bought a bunch of parts from the US,
i dont have much experince with v8's, so i would like to take your
opinions on how to make this amount of HP on the 1uz reliably.

1uzfe (Toyota 4000cc v8) from lexus sc400,
supra 5speed manual gearbox,
twin plate clutch,
Custom CP forged pistons-rings-pins-locks compression ratio 9:0,
Forged custom H-beam connecting rods,
Acl race series bearings,
Arp race series bolts,
cosmetic performance 1mm thicker lower compression ratio metal gaskets,
MSD twin ignition,
8x 720cc injectors of the rb26dett or 2jzgte,
no.8 iridium ngk sparkplugs,
twin walbro fuel pumps or bosch 044x2 pumps,
turbosmart large fuel regulator adjustable,
Performance timing belt,
90mm custom throttle body off the vg30,
twin high performance fuel rails,
custom stainless turbo headers- twin turbo,
twin turbochargers mitsubishi td05h-16's (rated at 370whp each) or twin 20gs (at 450hp each)-no.8 exhaust housing,
3.5" twin exhaust,
custom turbo downpipe,
HKS fcon vpro standalone ecu v3.2-3.3,
custom wiring harness,
turbosmart 38mm TWIN external wastegate,
Profec B greddy spec 2 electronic boost controller (switching low and high boost) with remote,
custom intercooler pipe kit,
blitz gt4" intercooler,
custom JUN intake manifold,
devils own water/methanol injection


would this be enough to get to my target,
500whp low boost, and 700whp on high boost?

thanks gents, your comments are highly appreciated.
 
Last edited:
First, I think with all the bits you're proposing, you should easily meet your goals.

I would add a set of Kelford cams, optimised for a turbo setup, and I'd also get a set of adjustable timing gears, so you can make sure your cam timing is spot on.

I'd also consider a set of L19 ARP head studs, or go all the way and have the block machined for larger OD, and longer head studs.

I would also strongly suggest that once it's built, you try to break that new motor in with a very simple fuel & ignition setup, and possibly no ECU at all. You're going to have a lot of brand new, untested components on that motor, and if they ALL don't work together absolutely PERFECTLY the first time, you'll run the risk of screwing up the breakin and possibly ruining the motor (I witnessed my own $10K 2JZ going up in smoke during breakin because of too many things that had to be tweaked at the same time)

For the two forced induction 1UZ engines I've had built since the 2JZ fiasco, after the long blocks were finished, I put a 4bbl carb and standalone Ford EDIS ignition on them, and broke them in like that on an engine dyno. After breakin, then the supercharger goes on, along with the fuel injection, ignition system, and the EMS, and then we can begin to sort out all the other little gremlins without worrying about screwing up the breakin.

Most would say this is OTT and too costly, but a day on the engine dyno is far cheaper than an engine rebuild.
 
hey gents,

thanks for the advise.

regarding the kelford cams,
what sort of specs would you recommend?

Inlet Duration @ Advertised: 268
Exhaust Duration @ Advertised: 274

Inlet Duration @ 1.27mm: 206
Exhaust Duration @ 1.27mm: 222

Inlet Valve Lift @ 1 to 1: 8.15mm
Exhaust Valve Lift @ 1 to 1: 8.00mm

Inlet Centerline @ Full Lift: 109
Exhaust Centerline @ Full Lift: 117

Inlet Duration @ Advertised: 264 Exhaust Duration @ Advertised: 264 Inlet Duration @ 1.27mm:
224 Exhaust Duration @ 1.27mm: 224 Inlet Valve Lift @ 1 to 1:
9.40mm Exhaust Valve Lift @ 1 to 1: 9.35mm Inlet Centerline @ Full Lift: 108 Exhaust Centerline @ Full Lift: 114
 
Rather than just spec'ing out a profile, I would give Kevin @ Kelfords a ring and discuss your goals for the engine. He'll probably suggest a number of things to help your application that might not be thought of otherwise, such as adjusting the lobe centers for less back pressure depending on the size turbocharger you're running, advancing the profiles a bit to account for the thicker head gasket and its change on the cam timing, etc. He'll also have some good advise for you on valves and springs.
 
thanks gents,

for the jun intake manifold, sure thing mate, it should be finished by sometime next week,
its actually a replica custom made for me, as the real deal is bloodly expensive as they also custom make it only uppon special request.

cribbj, thanks so much for that. to be honest in thailand, the 1uz is the only 8cyl around for a decent price, and nearly 0 parts for it-performance parts wise.
and not many people here have modified v8, or have only done for drag racing, not street use like my project.
being in thailand, it is defentially concidered road worthy, as emissions etc is not an issue unless you pour a heap of white or black smoke.
 
Gents would u say
at twin td05h-16g or a td05h-18g would be better to achieve this sort of power?
ill be using a std no.8 mitsubishi exhaust housing.
(has anyone used these mitsubishi turbos as twin setup before)? im looking for little turbo lag, yet not very high back pressure on the high rpms. (yet i understand the less turbo lag you have the more backpressure is devloped on high rpms)

also, regarding the external wastegate,
is twin 38mm turbo smart wastegates good size? or should i opt for the 4- mm spec?


as for valve springs- would the 2jzgte springs work with std cams?

importing the cams are of a high price, so i would like to use std cams.
are they good enough to handle this sort of power (500-700whp)?

if not, what sort of expection on hp can i see with std camshafts?


your advise is highly appreciated.
 
a large single....
i believe that it would face bad turbo lag?
if i went for a single,
i would like to opt for a borg warner s300 turbocharger,
with maf enchancment tip.

or even a twin borgwarner s200, though each is rated at about 450-500whp,
so it would be a big twin setup and will face significant lag.

mind u my application is for street use, daily run.

has anyone used a s300 turbo in the 1uz?
 
depends on how large it is, people down here in nz use truck turbos on 2.5lt skyline engines because the bolt right on. they seem to work just fine.

it's all a trade off, small turbos instant boost, lower top end.

Larger turbo, longer to spool, later max rpm.

Medium size, best of both.
Yep this where the T04Z came from.. It was HKS's tweek for the
RB26 and 2J engines..
As with all turbo's they tend to spool when load is applied to engine.. Free reving a turbo motor won't make boost or power...
 
Gents,
im very happy to say, the parts from the US,
have arrived, ill be reciving them later today.

parts include:
(forged cp pistons,rings,pins and locks
forged connecting rods
acl race bearings
arp bolts)
 
In general..
Depending on size.. Twins have quicker response, plenty of mid power..
A single CAN BE a little slower to respond and then has the advantage over twins in the mid to upper rpm...
It really averages it out due to more exhaust going through one turbo and the difference is really keyboard theory..
I have twins on a 5.3 / 330 stroker Ford Windsor Dart block..
Due to too low compression [7.8] it's somewhat lagy in lower rpm.. Cam comes into this also.. I went from 56 trim on exhaust wheels to 76 and lost 500 rpm in spool..
But my exhaust temps dropped which means there must have been some restriction in upper rpm through turbine housings.. These turbo's are Precision T3/4 hybrids rated at 680 h.p each.. At 15 Lb boost this combo makes 482 rwkw / 650 rwhp..
While one of the other cars in the family is a 6 cyl SOHC 4.0 running a single T04Z .84 turbine.. It spools almost instantly with 9.2 compression the power from off to on boost is hardly noticeable.. Though the higher compression limits the upper power level it's MUCH easier to drive as a street car.. Being a well sorted / built C4 auto it could have a larger A.R.. Being that the converter acts like a launch control so to speak with left foot braking.. It runs 11 seconds all day with 360 rwkw / 480 rwhp..

Keep in mind turbo threshold is another thing..

You cannot expect a 1000 h.p turbo to spool like a 500 h.p turbo..

Another part is with twins !!! If some galoot takes off dump pipe and damages exhaust wheel etc .. You often have to repair BOTH of them to keep them balanced or you get surging... In my case they where ceramic exh wheels and steel was the only option !!! A $2400 fix!!!! Btw I wasn't the galoot...
Subaru WRX's very much power / throttle response wise with suttle changes to turbine A.R.. Although on paper they look the same.. There are so many VF24/30 etc to chose from...
A long stroke seems to spool turbo's better . The 6 cyl above has near 4" stroke and spools very large turbo's easy..
The 1UZ is much the same with far higher rpm capability with some mods..
The fabrication difference between twins and single is about the same due to crossover pipe with single..
There are really too many variables and I have said contradicting things...
Who ever said opposite and equal reactions is dead right here...
 
Last edited:
what would be a good single turbo that one could get off the shelf (wrecking yard)?
what about a truck turbo from like a dodge or ford?
 
what would be a good single turbo that one could get off the shelf (wrecking yard)?
what about a truck turbo from like a dodge or ford?
A KKK [Borg Warner] or similar off a Cummins diesel??
Trouble is they designed for low flow / high pressure. Petrol engine are more high flow / low pressure..Work better on 5.5 Ltr engine and up in capacity..
As said before a Master Power T70 is cheap AND NEW !!!
Around $500 or so..Much less hassle..
These guys sell on .. Have good rep..
www.theturboforums.com

http://www.vsracing.net/

http://www.miketurboinc.com/
 
Last edited:


Back
Top