1UZFE custom intake flanges
- Thread starter autronic
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I had one of these to go on as the final twincharge setup but in the end i couldn't justify the fabrication required....nor the extra weight for what is now a dedicated track car. If this CAD stuff was around then i reckon i would have had a try
Local Machine shop.
autronic
Member
Justen, it needs a custom spacer to move the pulley far enough forward so the body of the M112 gets
behind the front water bridge.
The top of the ports is meant to be welded to the bottom of the Jaguar charge coolers after the original
runners have been removed.
I have a Jaguar M112 + the charge coolers ( new style ), well see if it ever get's used.
behind the front water bridge.
The top of the ports is meant to be welded to the bottom of the Jaguar charge coolers after the original
runners have been removed.
I have a Jaguar M112 + the charge coolers ( new style ), well see if it ever get's used.
autronic
Member
About the Jenvey to 1UZFE intake and Jenvey ITB's. They are available in a lot of sizes: 40, 42, 45, 48, 50,
52 and 54mm as straight bore + 4.5 degree taper and finally custom sizes. They can also be had with
0, 1 or 2 injector ports.
They do cost a bit but I think they are one of the better ones.
If somebody is interested in this drawing tell me what bore size the ITB's from Jenvey you plan use as I have
to modify the drawing to this bore size.
52 and 54mm as straight bore + 4.5 degree taper and finally custom sizes. They can also be had with
0, 1 or 2 injector ports.
They do cost a bit but I think they are one of the better ones.
If somebody is interested in this drawing tell me what bore size the ITB's from Jenvey you plan use as I have
to modify the drawing to this bore size.
autronic
Member
And then for the cheap ones of us ( me ! ).
It's possible to use throttle bodies from normal cars as ITB's, let me explain. I know the guy that runs the Volvo
wrecker here in Bergen. I had a look at an older Volvo 240/740 "red" engine with EFI and they have a nice 54 mm
throttle body that can be used as ITB's. It's a bit big for a low hp engine, but when the rews and hp starts
climbing it just might be right.
This is just an example, if you look around there is probably a lot of throttle bodies that can be used, and the
drawings can be modified to suit.
It's possible to use throttle bodies from normal cars as ITB's, let me explain. I know the guy that runs the Volvo
wrecker here in Bergen. I had a look at an older Volvo 240/740 "red" engine with EFI and they have a nice 54 mm
throttle body that can be used as ITB's. It's a bit big for a low hp engine, but when the rews and hp starts
climbing it just might be right.
This is just an example, if you look around there is probably a lot of throttle bodies that can be used, and the
drawings can be modified to suit.
JustenGT8
New Member
I had one of these to go on as the final twincharge setup but in the end i couldn't justify the fabrication required....nor the extra weight for what is now a dedicated track car. If this CAD stuff was around then i reckon i would have had a try
at:
autronic
Member
Ok, I have had a lot of feedback regarding the universal flange and the intakes. I have incorporated
a lot of the updates + request to this edition, that I hope is the last.
People have asked for:
- An intake flange that turn the port "up" so the top end is horizontal.
This is no problem to draw, the problem comes when you try to get somebody to machine it. This is
the same situation regarding the ports on the ITB intakes, not all CNC shops have the equipment to
machine a transition from a round to a "squashed" shape, so I keep it as simple as possible and this
means the ports on all the ITB intakes must be hand finished.
- Instead of saying no to the above, I have added a flange to the top end of the universal intake.
This will make it possible to bolt either straight or angled ( 32 degrees ) pipes to the universal flange
so the top of the intake can be flat.
If you are looking for the original/stealth look it should be possible to use a stock intake top, of course
with a little bit of work....
- Port size. It's up to 30 x 51 mm now, this is the same as a 41.2 mm round pipe.
This should be enough for most people, if bigger ports is needed there is enough material in the
flanges/intakes to port 'em.
- I have added more "meat" to the flange against the head.
Two reasons, better sealing and to have enough material there for increasing the port size.
All the drawings have been updated with the improvements where they apply and the Jaguar
supercharger intake have been redrawn. I got back my setup from a friend and put in on the engine
and started measuring and found that I had misjudged how much space there is so a complete
redesign was needed. It still have intake ports similar to a 40 mm pipe, but there is a transition
from 24 x 58 mm towards the supercharger to 29 x 51 at the head.
Here is a picture of the last version of the universal flange.
a lot of the updates + request to this edition, that I hope is the last.
People have asked for:
- An intake flange that turn the port "up" so the top end is horizontal.
This is no problem to draw, the problem comes when you try to get somebody to machine it. This is
the same situation regarding the ports on the ITB intakes, not all CNC shops have the equipment to
machine a transition from a round to a "squashed" shape, so I keep it as simple as possible and this
means the ports on all the ITB intakes must be hand finished.
- Instead of saying no to the above, I have added a flange to the top end of the universal intake.
This will make it possible to bolt either straight or angled ( 32 degrees ) pipes to the universal flange
so the top of the intake can be flat.
If you are looking for the original/stealth look it should be possible to use a stock intake top, of course
with a little bit of work....
- Port size. It's up to 30 x 51 mm now, this is the same as a 41.2 mm round pipe.
This should be enough for most people, if bigger ports is needed there is enough material in the
flanges/intakes to port 'em.
- I have added more "meat" to the flange against the head.
Two reasons, better sealing and to have enough material there for increasing the port size.
All the drawings have been updated with the improvements where they apply and the Jaguar
supercharger intake have been redrawn. I got back my setup from a friend and put in on the engine
and started measuring and found that I had misjudged how much space there is so a complete
redesign was needed. It still have intake ports similar to a 40 mm pipe, but there is a transition
from 24 x 58 mm towards the supercharger to 29 x 51 at the head.
Here is a picture of the last version of the universal flange.
bram boekestein
New Member
You got PM regarding machining.
Bram
Bram
RedPhoenix
New Member
Has anyone tried to get quotes on the 4age TB one? My last quote was $1200 a piece, yikes!
bram boekestein
New Member
I'm helping Trond to get these machined. Not the 4age ones though.
I dropped the drawings off at the machine shop yesterday and they will call me when they have a quote.
I dropped of the universal ones and the Jaguar Supercharger ones will be there as soon as they call me.
$1200 was that from Trond or 1uzquadcam?
Bram
PS. You can also email me directly bramus046 at hotmail.com
I dropped the drawings off at the machine shop yesterday and they will call me when they have a quote.
I dropped of the universal ones and the Jaguar Supercharger ones will be there as soon as they call me.
$1200 was that from Trond or 1uzquadcam?
Bram
PS. You can also email me directly bramus046 at hotmail.com
RedPhoenix
New Member
Local Machine shop.
bram boekestein
New Member
I can ask my machine shop, wich is going to do the other intakes how much they want for it? But only serious enquieries. Email or pm me to discuss.
Bram
Bram
Aussie Drifter
New Member
Hi Mate
If you have no luck, I have access to a small HASS mill with a 4th axis chuck, and a small HASS Lath. I am a fitter by trade and previously I was building WWII Fighter Aircraft, (P40 kitty hawks). I will be willing to give it a go if you still want it done. PM me if you are chasing anything done.
Cheers
If you have no luck, I have access to a small HASS mill with a 4th axis chuck, and a small HASS Lath. I am a fitter by trade and previously I was building WWII Fighter Aircraft, (P40 kitty hawks). I will be willing to give it a go if you still want it done. PM me if you are chasing anything done.
Cheers
bram boekestein
New Member
Why do you want Gcode? The advantage from SolidWorks is that it'll write a programm for you. But the machineshop needs to be on a Solid kernel, not Unix or so.From SW you can save to almost any format.There are a lot of program's that will make the Gcode for you. Even a lot of free ones.
Why? Because the machine shop said that's what they need.
I am neither a CAD nor a CAM specialist, therefore when someone who is says that's what they need, I pretty much take it at face value.
Neither do I have SolidWorks so I can't save Autronic's files in any other format other than what he provided.
Now if you know of programs that will convert these files to Gcode, and you'd care to share that information, it would be much appreciated!
I am neither a CAD nor a CAM specialist, therefore when someone who is says that's what they need, I pretty much take it at face value.
Neither do I have SolidWorks so I can't save Autronic's files in any other format other than what he provided.
Now if you know of programs that will convert these files to Gcode, and you'd care to share that information, it would be much appreciated!
autronic
Member
Guys, no need to get excited
I had a crack at converting the universal file to Gcode using MeshCAM and that didn't go to well, the computer
I tried to run it on "crashed and burned"...
The problem when converting something into nc code is you do not know what machine it will be made on + you do
not know certain parameters, what tools is available etc.
The ideal situation is to let the machine shop do the converting but that have proved difficult so far, we'll see what
happens.
I had a crack at converting the universal file to Gcode using MeshCAM and that didn't go to well, the computer
I tried to run it on "crashed and burned"...
The problem when converting something into nc code is you do not know what machine it will be made on + you do
not know certain parameters, what tools is available etc.
The ideal situation is to let the machine shop do the converting but that have proved difficult so far, we'll see what
happens.
bram boekestein
New Member
Exactly Trond, that's the problem with Gcode/NC code. You need to know what mill and tools they have. Only possible for the company really.
What manifold do you want machined Cribbj?
I can make drawings from the manifolds for you so you can take those to them. Or save any format you want.
My machine shop also doesn't work with Solid, they work with autocad and HyperMill, so they needed DWG/DXF or IGS.
I gave them IGS and they are getting back with a quote for Trond.
If you want some I can get it machined in the same batch or help you with the format or drawings they want.
Bram
What manifold do you want machined Cribbj?
I can make drawings from the manifolds for you so you can take those to them. Or save any format you want.
My machine shop also doesn't work with Solid, they work with autocad and HyperMill, so they needed DWG/DXF or IGS.
I gave them IGS and they are getting back with a quote for Trond.
If you want some I can get it machined in the same batch or help you with the format or drawings they want.
Bram
Thanks Trond & Bram.
The flanges I'm interested in are the ones for the motorcycle TB's, however if it looks like they're going to be serious money, then it would be rather silly to put $50 worth of TB's on $1000 worth of flanges wouldn't it?
So, if the cost of these things would be $500 plus or minus, then I'll stay with the ones for the Suzuki TB's, however, if they're getting into more serious money, then probably the ones for the Jenvey ITB's would be the better choice.
The flanges I'm interested in are the ones for the motorcycle TB's, however if it looks like they're going to be serious money, then it would be rather silly to put $50 worth of TB's on $1000 worth of flanges wouldn't it?
So, if the cost of these things would be $500 plus or minus, then I'll stay with the ones for the Suzuki TB's, however, if they're getting into more serious money, then probably the ones for the Jenvey ITB's would be the better choice.
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