1UZ vs 2UZ into FJ45LV Land Cruiser
- Thread starter woytovich
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I am torn... the promise of plug and play for about $1000US vs who-knows-what amount of work sorting out the stock systems...
I don't have an unlimited budget but I also don't want to spend 15+ hours working on this part of the project... and still not be confident I have gotten it all right.
I'm thinking that for now I'll continue to research to see if I can find definitive info on the harness mods needed to get the stock system done... I'm shy of the "voodoo", trial and error method...
Plus, if I go with the aftermarket stuff I can likely sell my stock components to recoup some of the $...
I'd love to do it myself with the stock harness... and be able to document it for others to use down the road...
mark
I don't have an unlimited budget but I also don't want to spend 15+ hours working on this part of the project... and still not be confident I have gotten it all right.
I'm thinking that for now I'll continue to research to see if I can find definitive info on the harness mods needed to get the stock system done... I'm shy of the "voodoo", trial and error method...
Plus, if I go with the aftermarket stuff I can likely sell my stock components to recoup some of the $...
I'd love to do it myself with the stock harness... and be able to document it for others to use down the road...
mark
$1k seems very reasonable if that gets you anywhere near road test instead of just twisting wires again.
aftermarket computers has two disadvantages - lack of emergency modes and their tuneability. So they can be set up wrong or re-tuned wrong or whatever. That's not very good for anything but track use.
aftermarket computers has two disadvantages - lack of emergency modes and their tuneability. So they can be set up wrong or re-tuned wrong or whatever. That's not very good for anything but track use.
If you factor in the cost of dyno time the Spitronic system will cost a min $2,000.
You appear to be spooked by the UZ electronics but it isn't all that difficult to get one running well without lots of work or dollars.
There are thousands of vehicles driving around with UZ swaps and most still run UZ electronics.
Why not send your engine harness, body plug and ECU to either Gloverman in NZ or Sideshow in Australia, pay them some money and they'll send you back a professionally wired loom that will work and drive like factory.
Way cheaper than faffing around with aftermarket ECU's.
I haven't seen any ""lack magic" used to make a UZ run well.
You appear to be spooked by the UZ electronics but it isn't all that difficult to get one running well without lots of work or dollars.
There are thousands of vehicles driving around with UZ swaps and most still run UZ electronics.
Why not send your engine harness, body plug and ECU to either Gloverman in NZ or Sideshow in Australia, pay them some money and they'll send you back a professionally wired loom that will work and drive like factory.
Way cheaper than faffing around with aftermarket ECU's.
I haven't seen any ""lack magic" used to make a UZ run well.
Can you give me more details on the "send away" options? (The Spitronics would be coming from Mark Watson in South Africa...)
I am all for "spend some money to save some time and head/heart ache"
This looks to maybe be a good source of info too:
http://oldschool.co.nz/2011/forum/index.php?showtopic=30736
I am all for "spend some money to save some time and head/heart ache"
This looks to maybe be a good source of info too:
http://oldschool.co.nz/2011/forum/index.php?showtopic=30736
Contact Gloverman (Kelvin, in Hamilton NZ) or Sideshow (Jim in Brisbane Aust.) via PM and they will let you know what they can do.
You also have the option of using local guys who will have done the work before.
I've done a few wire ups on UZ's and if I can get it to work well anyone can.
You also have the option of using local guys who will have done the work before.
I've done a few wire ups on UZ's and if I can get it to work well anyone can.
Continuing questions for the 2UZ path here:
http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?p=139890&posted=1#post139890
http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?p=139890&posted=1#post139890
Handgrenade
New Member
If you've got plenty of money, buy plug and play. If you're at all interested in getting this to work with what you have, learning about it and seriously, it's not like brain surgery, it's just like reading a map- You can do this. There are thousands of hoodie wearing, hat on backwards young kids that have stuck these engines into things and got them to run. Heck- some of them are online and are willing to help. I know from Toyota experience with the Camry & LS300 & the 2GR engines, that you can get these engines to purr like factory installed units, with them bolted to a wagon. They only need the sensors wired that are responsible for engine management. After that- it's up to you what else you want to hook up. All my gauges are going to be stand alone, with signals taken from the engine itself, not the ECU. My speedometer, is a really cool App that will be built into the dash.
It's not impossible. We live in a great age and there are a lot of really great people out there. Your call, I'll do what I can.
It's not impossible. We live in a great age and there are a lot of really great people out there. Your call, I'll do what I can.
"...hoodie wearing, hat on backwards..." Ok, THAT made me laugh...
I don't have ALL the money but the work I do (software development) is billed hourly so I have a sense of how time ends up costing money. I would rather get this on the road sooner for a few more dollars than have the project drag out... I can be doing billable work instead of stressing over the mysteries of messing with the harness...
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I'm thinking I might go with this gauge cluster - specifically made for the xJ40 series cruisers:
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index....ct_id=923/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd923.htm
I don't have ALL the money but the work I do (software development) is billed hourly so I have a sense of how time ends up costing money. I would rather get this on the road sooner for a few more dollars than have the project drag out... I can be doing billable work instead of stressing over the mysteries of messing with the harness...
----------
I'm thinking I might go with this gauge cluster - specifically made for the xJ40 series cruisers:
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index....ct_id=923/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd923.htm
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just buy the spittronic aftermarket loom and get a local tuner to tune it for u
that way u don't have air flow meter and o2s to worry about
it just wont control the auto
if u want to keep auto then do like zuffen said and google stuff
buy a printer and print off heaps of pages and organise them into info and into diagrams
this way its much easier to surf thru your paperwork than surf thru pages on your laptop screen and also u can write notes on the pages too so u understand it better
that's the cheapest way out of it
don't buy anything for the dash yet
get the engine running then figure out what sensors and signals u have on the motor for the dash then go from there
if u have 1 grand or so to spend get a Dakota digital dash as it comes with sensors for oil and water and will accept most rpm and speedo signals
and make sure u get a fuel sender to match
80% of jobs I run into with fuel gauges have bought a mismatch gauge and sender because they didn't realise there is 5 or 6 different settings
that way u don't have air flow meter and o2s to worry about
it just wont control the auto
if u want to keep auto then do like zuffen said and google stuff
buy a printer and print off heaps of pages and organise them into info and into diagrams
this way its much easier to surf thru your paperwork than surf thru pages on your laptop screen and also u can write notes on the pages too so u understand it better
that's the cheapest way out of it
don't buy anything for the dash yet
get the engine running then figure out what sensors and signals u have on the motor for the dash then go from there
if u have 1 grand or so to spend get a Dakota digital dash as it comes with sensors for oil and water and will accept most rpm and speedo signals
and make sure u get a fuel sender to match
80% of jobs I run into with fuel gauges have bought a mismatch gauge and sender because they didn't realise there is 5 or 6 different settings
Handgrenade
New Member
Updates? Pics?
Do you do looms for other combinations? Can you contact me at [email protected] to discuss details if you do?
(Your sig line link didn't work)
mark
(Your sig line link didn't work)
mark
