1uz transplant into E36 Bmw coupe

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Seems like this is the place to hang out for 1uz info.
Putting 1uz and 5spd toyota box into e36 coupe.
Any info from anyone who has done this before or knows who to contact
would be much appreciated.
picture of my car

Robert
 
There are a few BMWs with 1uz in NZ - guys on here are 340i and Driftie325i. We helped out with one in a E30 bmw which is now a manual - They fit really nicely except for the exhaust manifolds. Cheers
 
Havent done an update for a while,so here are some photos of progress so far.
95 ls400,w57 box,180 inlet flip,castlemaine rod shop rear sump.
certainly fills up the engine bay.
Engine mounts are just round tube with a nolathane radius bush pressed in
with simple ear mount on original bmw location on cross member(simple is good0
 
thanks for comment on gearbox cross member,i dont think it will cause a problem made out of 60mmx6mm but may revise that decision at a later date
 
I agree with anodyne, the g'box member needs bracing. It is certainly thick material but it has to resist the flex of the engines torque as well as the weight sitting on it. A strip that rises about 5-10 mmm above the bar on both the front and the back to give torsional strength would suffice.
 
Anodyne,

Well drawn diagram of what the crossmember needs.

If it were my car I'd take that advice and implement it before driving it.

To fix it now is an hours work and $10.00 worth of steel and wire.

To reapir the damage from a crossmember failure is days of work and potentially thousands of dollars or a totalled car.

Do it before you drive it.
 
Here's the latest progress.Engine and box are in for the last time.have built a set of tri-y headers as there is no room for anything else,especially on drivers side.Have gone to a custom 10"flywheel with commodore v6 pressure plate(2300lb)clamp,10"clutch plate with kevlar lining and southwests hydraulic release bearing which works fine with existing BMW master cylinder.Just awaiting driveshaft to come back and then off to auto electrician to finish wiring.
Have used a short shifter which comes up through original hole in the floor and through the standard console openin.
Sent the dash away and had tacho modified to accept signal from ignitor so inside of the car looks like factory Bmw.
 
Nice work but I am a bit doubtful about your left hand side headers. The first and third pipes should merge together and the second and fourth pipes should merge not the first and second and third and fourth
 
due to issues with room to run the header pipes this is the way they ended up.I'm sure they will flow better than the factory ones and the engine is only
in standard form.
 
Due to room issues this is the way the headers ended up.I'm sure they will flow better than the factory ones and the engine is only in standard form
 
Rush headers aren't "correct" either but the loss in power in a near stock engine is negligable and the gains over the stock exhausts quite reasonable.
 
Just when you think you are in the home straight something comes along to bite you in the arse.Had engine/trans back in for final time but had to remove as hyd release bearing began to leak.After trying to rectify leak with no joy unable to source seals and the housing had to much play in it decided to get a new one.
This is a Howe racing enterprises unit which is much better machined than my old unit so just got to do a test bleed before it all goes back in
 
I like hydralic release bearings but first setup is very important. Is that a self adjusting unit or have shim type adjustment. Things are looking good. Cheers
 


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