1UZ-FE Transplant into 91 Hilux Surf

[mshawari1]

Mudman :

"I used the oil pressure sender from the original 2L-T diesel engine but had to mount it remotely because the engine mount was in the way. I made a mounting plate from 3mm thick steel and bolted it to the rear airconditioning pump mount. I used brass fittings & copper hose for the plumbing. It worked really well and was very easy & cheap to do."

How much it cost you ?? What filter mount (from which engine) you use !

I am planning to do same as what you do. ​

 

[cebby]

Mudman - what oil filter relo kit did you use? Was it the Ford 5.0 kit? (I've read that one will work)

Bump for Mudman...

Us inquiring minds want to know!:happysad:

 

[Mudman]

I bought the oil filter by-pass adaptor, remote oil filter mount, braided hose & fittings all seperately and it cost around (NZ) $500. The oil filter by-pass adaptor had a 3/4 - 16 thread and will fit most Ford, Chrysler, Toyota, Nissan & VW engines which have spin on filters. All the parts are readily available from most automotive performance shops.

 

[Clown Boy]

Mudman - can you show me how you did your Steering Stabiliser?

I have seen a couple of examples I am not too fond of.

 

[jmcreely]

Yeah, It makes life a lot easier when you can find the right parts straight off the shelf.
I still have the part numbers if anyone wants to order some.

I'd be interested in as much detail as you can give on fitting that radiator (modding inlet / outlet etc). Griffins look good for the money and that is a really neat install.

Cheers.

 

[jmcreely]

Any chance of part numbers for the rad and hoses?

 

[Mudman]

Sorry Jmcreely for taking so long to get back to you... I'm not sure if these are the part numbers or the stock reference numbers for the radiator & heater hoses I used but here's what I have.
The brand of the lower radiator hose & heater hose is 'Mackay' which are made in Australia for Australian built cars.
For the lower radiator hose, I used a top radiator hose that was for a Ford Falcon Xa, Xb or Fairlane Zf, Zg, Zh with a 4.9 or 5.8 litre engine. It had a code 'CH969' which I think could be a reference number. It also had an OEM part number which was 'AKM5072'.
For the heater hose (from the manifold to the heater), I used a heater hose that was for a Holden Hq, Hj & Statesman with a 253 or 308 C.i.d. engine. The code on this hose was 'CH941' and the OEM part number was '2820471'.

The radiator I used was a 26" X 19" Griffin which is an American made aftermarket radiator. I only have a stock code number which is 'GRIFF125222'. The inlet & outlet was top-left/bottom right which is apparently what would be used for a small block Chev. The radiator came with straight inlet & outlet hose connections which I had to cut off & weld on 90 degree ones. If you looked back at my previous posts, there are some photos & explanations of these and also how I mounted it into my Hilux.

Hope this helps.

 

[Mudman]

Mudman - can you show me how you did your Steering Stabiliser?

I have seen a couple of examples I am not too fond of.

Hi Clown Boy,

The factory steering stabiliser was originally located over top of the tie-rod and was in the way of the sump. So rather than modify the sump, I decided to remove the stabiliser and relocate an aftermarket one underneath the tie rod because this was a much easier and better option.
I used a Rancho stabiliser (RS5402) which has studs at each end. I cut the lug off the tie rod where the factory stabiliser was mounted but left a small part of it to act as a non-slip locator for the new mount. This factory mount needed to be cut off otherwise it would hit the sump when I turned. I fabricated a new mount at this end of the stabiliser out of 6mm steel and bolted it to the tie rod with u-bolts on either side if the lug. I know of some cases where people have cut the factory mount off the tie-rod and welded it underneath and reused the factory stabiliser and they managed to get certification. But unless welding to any steering components is fully tested and x-rayed, it would be illegal and possibly dangerous because welding to cast iron (such as the tie-rod) can be dodgy, even for an experienced welder.
At the other end of the stabiliser, I fabricated the mount out of a piece of 100 X 50 X 4 RHS and welded it to the chassis.
You may notice that the stabiliser is on an angle. This is because the tie-rod lowers as you turn to full lock and you need clearance between the stabiliser and the tie-rod. However, I did keep it up as high as possible to prevent it from being damaged when driving off road.

 

[Mudman]

 

[Mudman]

 

[Mattmannz]

Lovely brackets.

Nice tidy install.

Matt.

 

[Clown Boy]

Thanks heaps for that info on Steering Stabiliser.

Can't say I like welding anytign to my chassis (for the DS mount) but I admit there is nothing to bolt it to.

Good work.

 

[Mudman]

There's just one more thing I need to do before attempting the wiring and that is the air filter & air flow metre.
The factory plastic pipe between the throttle body and the air flow metre would not fit due to the brake booster being in the way so I decided to scrap it and go for a 82mm diameter 45 degree silicone bend. This was a tight fit over the air flow metre but I managed to get it on without too much effort & using silicone spray, and quite a loose fit over the throttle body (but not too loose that it wouldn't seal).
I then made a manifold to fix the air filter to the air flow metre using a piece of 3" exhaust tubing & 5mm steel plate. I shaped the exhaust tubing so that it transformed from round to rectangular to match the air flow metre and welded it to the flange that I made from the steel plate. I then made a temporary bracket and bolted it to the inner guard & fixed this manifold to it with some rubber mounts.
(Some of this setup will be temporary because I am intending to build an airbox at a later stage, however this will be enough to get it running for now).

Once I had everything fitted in place, I then removed it and had the manifold electroplated.
While I was waiting for this to get done, I started thinking on what to do about the traction control on the throttle body. I had no intention of using it, and thought if I removed it, I may gain slightly better air flow but would have to plug the holes where the rod for the butterfly use to be. I then thought that if I removed the stepper motor and the position sensor at each end of the rod, cut off the excess mounting aluminium that these were fixed to and thread each of the holes, I could bolt in a blanking plug on one side and a hose tail on the other and use this hose tail to connect the hose for the idle-up control.
I decided to go with this plan.
I started dismantling the traction control and found that the rod for the butterfly rotated on bearings that were 15mm diameter - the perfect size for tapping the correct thread required tor the 5/8" hose tail that was needed for the idle-up hose. This made it really easy because it ment that I didn't even need to drill the holes any bigger to suit the plug & the hose tail and it made for a really neat factory look.

 

[Mudman]

The last photo was taken about 3 months after I had it running. I don't think the idle-up valve is working because the idle was all over the place. I decided to disconnect it and remove the hose to the throttle body and plug the hose connections. I set the idle using the adjusting screws on the throttle body and when I need it to idle a but faster when it is cold, I use the throttle cable adjustment knob which is on the dash.

I used the original Hilux throttle cable and modified it to fit the V8. The cable was way too long in its original state so I figured it wouldn't be too hard to shorten it & make it work. I cut the inner cable end off (at the peddle end) and pulled it out from the outer cable. I then removed the original 1UZ outer cable from its end (which is connected to the throttle body), and hammered a piece of steel rod which was about 8mm diameter into the threaded cable end to spread open the crimp. I then cut the Hilux outer cable to the correct length and pushed it into the cable end of the 1UZ and bolted it to the throttle body. The end of the original inner cable was the same size as the one for the 1UZ so I fed it back into the outer cable from the throttle end and used an electrical connection as the stop at the pedal end. I fixed the cable bracket to the throttle body using the lower bolt hole in the top mounting hole on the throttle body to lift the cable higher to get clearance over the brake master cylinder reservior. This seems to be holding it ok and hasn't slipped yet but one day I will weld on an additional cleat and fix it properly when I have nothing else to do.

 

[jmcreely]

Cheers for all that mate, I'll get shopping!

 

[usmcracing]

I decided to use the factory bellhousing and purchase an adaptor plate & flywheel from Johno at Performance Metalworks because I already had the bellhousing. It came with the engine when I bought it.
The only problem with the adaptor plate was that it didn't have a pedestool for the clutch fork pivot. The reason for this is because not all vehicles have the slave cylinder in the same place. Anyway, its not that hard to make one and weld it on... As long as it's measured up correctly.

I later found that there are 2 different factory bellhousings....
One has "U1" and the other has "U2" cast on the top.
There are slight differences between these two bellhousings. They are both identical as far as the length and bolt holes go, but the location of the bolt holes at the transmission end are rotated about 5 - 10 degrees on the "U2" bellhousing.
This ment that If I used the "U2" bellhousing, my transmission would still bolt up using the adaptor plate, but would be rotated slightly to the left.
After finding this out, I checked to see what mine was...... It had U2 cast onto it.
AAAAAAAAARRRRHH!!!!
I rang the importer that I bought the engine from and asked if they could swap it for the "U1" which they did.
Once I had that minor hickup sorted out, I bolted it up to the Hilux gearbox (R150) and decided on the best location for the clutch fork. (Which was pretty much where the original Hilux one originally was).

Here's the adaptor plate with the clutch fork pedestool welded onto it.

Have you thought about making these on the side? As well as your motor mounts, headers, and so on. You could sell it as a kit. I bet you'd make a nice bit of extra cash doing so. Great work on your swap.

Steven

 

[Mudman]

Hi Steven,
The engine/gearbox adaptor was made by Performance Metalworks & they also supplied the flywheel. They may get a bit upset if I copied their parts and sold them for a profit.
I've considered making direct bolt-in engine & gearbox mounts as a kit. They were very easy to make and didn't take long but I don't think there would be a big enough market for them here in New Zealand. The headers & exhaust system cost approx NZ$1700 in parts and took approx 70 hours to build - so I don't think I'd make much money from building an exhaust system as part of a kit.
I don't know much about this, but I heard you can somehow save the shapes of exhaust tubing on a specialised mandrel bending machine and mass produce as many as you want. If there is such a machine that can do this, It may be feasible I guess.
If there was a kit available and was similar to what I had done on my conversion, I would have bought one if the price was reasonable. But when I added up what it cost me to make my parts, I don't think I would have paid that much for a kit.
When you're building something like this, money can dissapear very quickly. Sometimes it is better not to know how much some of these parts have cost to make.

 

[S-M-R-T]

Thanks heaps for that info on Steering Stabiliser.

Can't say I like welding anytign to my chassis (for the DS mount) but I admit there is nothing to bolt it to.

Good work.

The mount that came with my Rancho kit uses a simple 90 degree bend to put the mount in the same place as pictured but it bolts to the IFS subframe using those two large bolts that hold on the lower IFS crossmember. Sorry I can't seem to find any pics, but you should be able to order up the mounting kit from pretty much anywhere. Easier then welding for sure. If you were poor you could probably even make one out of some 2.5" 1/4" angle iron cut to fit and a couple 1/4" longer grade 8 bolts.

 

[cebby]

And now for the headers....

I was thinking of using the factory headers but found that it wouldn't be a straight bolt-in job.
The primaries on the passengers side will fit, but on the drivers side, they would need to be shortened & re-welded to the header flange so that it would fit between the engine & steering rod.

I didn't really like the look of the factory headers, and I thought if I modified them to fit, I probably wouldn't be happy with them.

It wouldn't take long to modify them and make them work, but it would take a huge amount of time to make up my own headers!

Modify factory headers and get the Surf running sooner.
Or brand new equal length 4 - 1 pollished silver HPC coated headers.

Hmmmmmm............

I though bugger it....
If I had to modify the factory headers to make them fit, I may as well start from scratch and make a complete set of new headers.

I made a paper template for the header flange and drew it up on CAD, printed it, then cut it out and fitted it to make sure it would fit and everything lined up.
The CAD file was sent to the laser cutters to have them cut out of 10mm steel plate.

I bought 14/41mm dia mandrel U-bends, 3m of 16G/41mm dia exhaust tubeing & 2/4 into 1 collectors.

I was in business!!!

Once the flanges were cut, I picked them up and rushed home to see how they would fit.
They fitted perfectly.

I bolted them to the heads and started cutting the bends into sections and tacking them in place with my mig welder. (But not to the header flange).

This wasn't as easy as it sounds!

I had to guess the right shape so that they would all be the same length when they reached the collector, and also have enough clearance around the steering, engine mounts, suspension, clutch slave cylinder, floor and each of the other primaries.

This took several attempts of recutting & retacking the primaries and seemed to go on forever but I finally got it sorted out and ended up with a maximum of about 10mm difference in length between the primaries where they met at the collector.

Once I had all of the primaries tacked (I haven't tacked them to the header flange yet), I removed them and gave them to a friend who tig welded them.

Here's a pic of the right hand side headers with the primaries tacked and ready to be tig welded.
They're just sitting in the header flange.

Mudman - did you use all the U-Bends that you bought? I'm putting together my order now (got my flanges yesterday).

 

[Mudman]

Hi Cebby,
I used every one of them and the offcuts that were left over if put together, would make up approx. 1 'U' shape. Some vehicles may not require this many, and others may require more. I initially started with 10 manderal U-bends and found that I needed more once I started putting the primaries together. There were a lot of components & chassis nembers etc that I needed to form the primaries around.

What vehicle are yours going into?