1UZ no sparks issue?

[George_R]

double Gloverman for checking the power wires with a bulb

 

[gloverman]

I check the earths the same way , but connect the test light to a good power source. Quick and easy.

 

[fourstars]

scoped the crank and cams they are operating correctly....

 

[fourstars]

more testing... and found out all 5 grounds connected to the ECU is working with the test light. test +B, +B1, BATT @ 12v , MREL @ 10v , IGSW @ 11.7v, all also lights up with the test light. This was tested with IGN ON and with ECU connected at the ECU rear plugs.

may sound stupid but i'm not sure if its normal but when i connect test light on negative battery terminal and touch the injector wires black/orange or black/red or yellow, my test light comes on. it also has a little tiny click sound.

Added some grounds from the block to the frame.

 

[George_R]

it's absolutely normal if the ignition was on.

did the scope you used have the ability to save a signal to a file for viewing on a computer? You could miss something important like amplitude pulsation or missing teeth etc.

one more thing. May sound dumb but. Arrange a bulb to igniters' power so it's on when the igniters are on (and you are able to have a spark by manually triggering them).

Then crank the engine and see if the light is still on.

 

[fourstars]

Im sure i can get a file posted up since he had save in his scanner/scope system. I appologize, im not sure what you meant by this:

...Arrange a bulb to igniters' power so it's on when the igniters are on...


I just tested the igniters w/ IGN ON and this is what i have as to power:

Igniter 1

IGF-------5v
IGT ------0v
+B2-------12v
TACH-------0
C- --------12v

Igniter 2

IGF -------5v
IGT --------0v
+B2--------12
C- --------12v

And yes, when i manually trigger the igniters i do get sparks...

sorry man, just trippin out.. and throwing everything out there... lol

 

[fourstars]

i checked my timing just because... and the timing belt and cams are align. No skipped tooth or anything weird in that area.

 

[George_R]

I just hinted the possibility that the igniters may not have enough power (or no power at all) at the very moment you crank the engine
by power I mean not only voltage but also the ability of a circuit to provide enough current, that's the reason why a bulb test is of particular importance.

 

[fourstars]

spent the whole day yesterday trouble shooting in circles. so, now im in the process of taking everything related to ignition to crank and cam sensors and swapping them with good ones.. is there anything i should look for while im in there?

 

[fourstars]

not much progress.. buddy erase the save scope files. so will have to do it again. meanwhile, i took all cam sensor, igniters, coil, rotors, crank sensor, and distributer out to exchange them with my buddies sc400 that was over heating. will be transfering everything over this weekend.. if this dont work im sure it has something to do with the wiring harness.. Tweakd Performance and i got into a heated conversation before they sent it out.. he even treaten me about my harness. so that conversation sits in the back of my mind with all this troubleshooting...

 

[fourstars]

its a long shot, but im reaching everything, what about STA, NSW, SPD...do these need to be short or hook up? havent looked into this yet...but reading forums after forums, that question pops up..

 

[George_R]

Normally, any 1UZ starts with the pins you just mentioned left unconnected

 

[gloverman]

Any chance when repairing the front loom connect that you may have reversed one pair of sensor wires?

Have you lifted the ECU lid and tested from inside the ECU?

 

[fourstars]

Ok, so no worries about the SPD, NSW, STA.. GOOD..

I have not checked the powers from the inside of the ECU, but I will. I have a spare ECU and I am having the same issue with that ECU as well.

The original 6 plug (EC1) connector to the 2 cams sensor and crank sensor was replace with a spare body connector I had from the interior harness. I check every wire back to the ECU and wired it just like the wiring diagrams. I rechecked it at least 10 times with 4 different wire diagrams that I have. I also replace the shield wires to each sensor and grounded the shielded wire up stream like the wiring diagrams. As far as I tell it was RE-wire correctly. I did a resistance check and continuity check from the sensors to the ECU and everything is wire correctly.. The wires itself seems to hold continuity and resistance.

 

[pajman]

I think STA needs a wire from the starter relay to tell the ECU the motor is starting. Could be wrong of course .

 

[fourstars]

switch every thing out and again no luck... i recheck wires and it is again correct as the diagram...

 

[fourstars]

now is there anything in the wiring harness modification that can cause such a thing??? im running out of ideas...

 

[fourstars]

rechecked STA & NSW, STA has power at START, NSW has power at START. i thought NSW should have no power in an AUTO setup? am i wrong?

 

[Bushwhacker]

So you have voltage where you should have voltage and the fuel pump is running when the engine is cranking over, but is fuel actually reaching the injectors?

 

[fourstars]

i dont have voltage at IGT 1 & 2 when ign on. FP is working when canking. i personally havent taken off the injectors to see it is spraying fuel, but it was never a problem. I even try bypassing the FP ecu and add 12v directly to the FP to turn on..