When im doing a conversion with the R series 4x4 box into a different vehicle I dont worry about any of the surf wiring and set the system up with relays to control the engagement motor. Different if im doing a surf which keeps the ADD. I also remove the ADD on some surfs , fit manual hubs and then wire up my relays. Cheers
1uz in to Rocsta 4x4
- Thread starter fuddymucker
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Can you send me a link to the one you bought please, I can only find suitable for 2l and under. Also wondering where you now connect your oil pressure switch? Thanks
Yes it is.
I fitted this kit to relocate the oil filter and fit a cooler in-line.......
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-1113/
This time you are correct.
the easiest way which i have never done on surfs but should work as ive done about 10 of them on early landcruisers is to use a transmission relay from a 1990 to 2000 model landcruiser not sure exactly what year but its one small relay that does 2wd to 4wd
control of the motor and about the size of a pack of matches
i always try to keep some of these relays from all my 1hdte diesel conversions
pretty sure the transfer 4wd motors all work the same whether they r in landcruisers or surfs
maybe someone can tell me if they r the same
or what i have done in the past is to just leave the factory surf trans ecu in the car
and use it to control the 4wd but not the auto box and use the lexus ecu to do the auto
i also think u loose the rear speed sensor on the lexus auto when u bolt up a transfer so u then need to refit that
control of the motor and about the size of a pack of matches
i always try to keep some of these relays from all my 1hdte diesel conversions
pretty sure the transfer 4wd motors all work the same whether they r in landcruisers or surfs
maybe someone can tell me if they r the same
or what i have done in the past is to just leave the factory surf trans ecu in the car
and use it to control the 4wd but not the auto box and use the lexus ecu to do the auto
i also think u loose the rear speed sensor on the lexus auto when u bolt up a transfer so u then need to refit that
there is also a new trick i recently did for a manual 4wd
the surf or 4runner 4wd always clicks in when u pull the transfer lever back into low
so i have tricked the ecu so now the only way to get 4wd is by pressing the button on the side off the gear lever
so this means u can have 2wd hi and 2wd low by moving lever
then 4wd hi and 4wd low by pulling lever and pressing button
just makes car easy to drive in 2wd when your going slow like reversing up a steep driveway when u have very tight diffs and very harsh clutch
the surf or 4runner 4wd always clicks in when u pull the transfer lever back into low
so i have tricked the ecu so now the only way to get 4wd is by pressing the button on the side off the gear lever
so this means u can have 2wd hi and 2wd low by moving lever
then 4wd hi and 4wd low by pulling lever and pressing button
just makes car easy to drive in 2wd when your going slow like reversing up a steep driveway when u have very tight diffs and very harsh clutch
samsdad
Member
Gentlemen I probably have one thing that you do not which is a full set of Surf factory wiring diagrams and a lot for the 1Us. the latter of which came from either Toyota NZ or USA. The jap ones being in Japanese are a little hard to read but you get thru it in the end then wonder why you do all of this (ok coz there is money there and you can) But each of us does this in our own way and in a way that works for us and our customers (and the powers that be for rego/cert) I try to match pins and keep the whole lot working as per factory right down to the ADD system. Just so if you have a fault you can go TE1 to E1 in the box and have the engine light, OD light and 4wd light flashing out the codes. Little different with doing that with an OBDII system which is what were doing ATM. IMO if there is a factory system there for 4wd..retain it, if not do what Kelvin says with the relays. Crux of the matter is the K.I.S.S principle. Keep it simple so if anything goes wrong down the track it is easily fixed
i have factory toyota workshop manuals for msot hilux and 4runenrs which also has surfs
i would like samsdad said to keep the surf auto/4wd ecu in the vehicle and use it to control just the 4wd as it wont control the lexus auto properly
anyway the relays i use are tiny and 6 wire install
better than some diags ive seen on here with 6 relays to get 4wd to work
i would like samsdad said to keep the surf auto/4wd ecu in the vehicle and use it to control just the 4wd as it wont control the lexus auto properly
anyway the relays i use are tiny and 6 wire install
better than some diags ive seen on here with 6 relays to get 4wd to work
scuba_diver
New Member
Thanks everyone for your input, I've been a bit loathed to reply recently incase I was accused of thread hijacking 
I've got my eye on a couple of surf ecu's on Ebay, and another forum at the moment. Being as this will be fitted to a Land Rover and not a Toyota I won't be splicing the wiring into any of the looms and of course won't be using the add system. Like I said previously, I've adapted the speed sensor on the tail housing to accept the Lexus one and am presuming that if I pick up on this for the transfer box ecu then the only thing affected will be the max speed with which I'll be allowed to engage 4wd?
By ignoring the wires for the add system will the ecu still function correctly?
Thanks again, Lee.
I've got my eye on a couple of surf ecu's on Ebay, and another forum at the moment. Being as this will be fitted to a Land Rover and not a Toyota I won't be splicing the wiring into any of the looms and of course won't be using the add system. Like I said previously, I've adapted the speed sensor on the tail housing to accept the Lexus one and am presuming that if I pick up on this for the transfer box ecu then the only thing affected will be the max speed with which I'll be allowed to engage 4wd? By ignoring the wires for the add system will the ecu still function correctly?
Thanks again, Lee.
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If using the Trans of a lexus use the lexus ECU to control it. V6 auto surf with the larger gearbox use the engine ecu to control the gearbox while many other surfs use a separete 4x4 ecu which is what the diagrams Samsdad put up are for. As neither of these conversions are in Surfs I feel its a complicated way to do it. There are plenty of easier ways to engage/disengage the 4x4 motor. It only takes three relays or maybe sideshows landcruiser relay. I also do them with a switch but only for drivers that know how to use it as its possible to overload the motor. Cheers
scuba_diver
New Member
Fuddy Mucker, just been looking back through the thread and noticed you'd asked about a remote filter. The one I used was a Mocal one from Ebay. Just do a search for a remote filter 3/4 unf thread, Toyota, Nissan etc. Currently around £85+p&p. 
fuddymucker
New Member
Fuddy Mucker, just been looking back through the thread and noticed you'd asked about a remote filter. The one I used was a Mocal one from Ebay. Just do a search for a remote filter 3/4 unf thread, Toyota, Nissan etc. Currently around £85+p&p.
Can you send me a link to the one you bought please, I can only find suitable for 2l and under. Also wondering where you now connect your oil pressure switch? Thanks
scuba_diver
New Member
That's the one I bought mate. The integral oil cooler in the Lexus rad. was only 1/2" bore (at the most), so don't see it being a problem.
fuddymucker
New Member
Bushwhacker
Member
Yes it is.
I fitted this kit to relocate the oil filter and fit a cooler in-line.......
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-1113/
fuddymucker
New Member
scuba_diver
New Member
Yes of course it is, I remembered after I'd posted the reply. 
The relocation kit just bolts on where the filter was doesn't it, so the pressure switch isn't affected. Or have I done something wrong
The relocation kit just bolts on where the filter was doesn't it, so the pressure switch isn't affected. Or have I done something wrong
Bushwhacker
Member
Yes of course it is, I remembered after I'd posted the reply.
The relocation kit just bolts on where the filter was doesn't it, so the pressure switch isn't affected. Or have I done something wrong
This time you are correct.
scuba_diver
New Member
I was just looking at that remote filter kit in the link and noticed the pipes on that one are 1/2" aswell. Something else to note is that the fittings look like they come straight out whereas mine are side exit, I wouldn't have had the room to fit that one on my truck, don't even know if I'd get 90 degree elbows on. Might be worth checking how much room you have.
How's the build going anyway Fuddymucker?
How's the build going anyway Fuddymucker?
scuba_diver
New Member
fuddymucker
New Member
The build has slowed down a tad as I am battling out the best position for the engine...
1, at the front of the engine bay to gain as much rear prop length as possible but have to try and relocate the radiator in the back and hope the water pump is man enough to pump the extra distance and height
2, at the back of the engine bay and attempt to work around the very short sharp prop angle (maybe move the rear axle 10" back)
3, at the top of the engine bay to give the sump enough clearance from the front diff but bulge the bonnet and make the rear prop angle even worse
4, at the bottom of the engine bay and custom make a rear sump unit (not sure a Soarer sump will be back enough) or dry sump it (not that I can afford to dry sump it)
and the middle of the engine bay is an issue for nearly all of the above.
I really need to get this positioning sorted and decide which way to go before I can continue with much else..
1, at the front of the engine bay to gain as much rear prop length as possible but have to try and relocate the radiator in the back and hope the water pump is man enough to pump the extra distance and height
2, at the back of the engine bay and attempt to work around the very short sharp prop angle (maybe move the rear axle 10" back)
3, at the top of the engine bay to give the sump enough clearance from the front diff but bulge the bonnet and make the rear prop angle even worse
4, at the bottom of the engine bay and custom make a rear sump unit (not sure a Soarer sump will be back enough) or dry sump it (not that I can afford to dry sump it)
and the middle of the engine bay is an issue for nearly all of the above.
I really need to get this positioning sorted and decide which way to go before I can continue with much else..
fuddymucker
New Member
Just had a closer look at my oil filter space and I don't think I can fit that type either. Think I will need to use a Lextreme unit
fuddymucker
New Member
Ok guys, a slight change of plan.
Because of all the issues i have been having with the lexus sump, I have decided to use a Soarer engine and gearbox instead, Now the rebuilt engine and gearbox are up for grabs
Rebuilt Lexus 1UZFE complete 4X4 drive unit
I am selling the rebuilt engine complete with the LS400 autobox which has been adapted to fit the Surf transfer as a complete drop in unit
This photo is not the best as the engine is missing its inlet chamber ect but it gives you an idea of whats up for grabs
It is setup to run on megasquirt at the moment and does so very well (as you can see in the earlier clips posted) but I will need the megasquirt ecu for the other engine. You can buy a Megasquirt unit for around £300 however if you do not want to go down this route you are welcome to the complete engine wiring loom with ECU, ignitors ect which will get you running as it was designed to.
I would like to see around £650ono to get back a bit of what it owes me
Please PM if intressted
Because of all the issues i have been having with the lexus sump, I have decided to use a Soarer engine and gearbox instead, Now the rebuilt engine and gearbox are up for grabs
Rebuilt Lexus 1UZFE complete 4X4 drive unit
I am selling the rebuilt engine complete with the LS400 autobox which has been adapted to fit the Surf transfer as a complete drop in unit
This photo is not the best as the engine is missing its inlet chamber ect but it gives you an idea of whats up for grabs
It is setup to run on megasquirt at the moment and does so very well (as you can see in the earlier clips posted) but I will need the megasquirt ecu for the other engine. You can buy a Megasquirt unit for around £300 however if you do not want to go down this route you are welcome to the complete engine wiring loom with ECU, ignitors ect which will get you running as it was designed to.
I would like to see around £650ono to get back a bit of what it owes me
Please PM if intressted
