1uz hilux 400 hp

[coholm]

I'm sure this has been asked plenty of times but i am wanting to make a reliable 400 (maybe 500 rwhp on special occasions) but still be able to use it as a daily driver... i have 2 engines one i just pulled out because it ran a bearing and one i have just bought to replace it and put back in my hilux for the time being. the one that ran a bearing i am thinking of putting it away for now and start collecting parts for its rebuild, eg rods,pistons, kelford sc cams, ported heads, fuel reg, bigger injectors, (let me know if you think i am missing some parts that need doing internally that i haven't listed) and of course a supercharger i am thinking a vortech supercharger just because i don't like the sound of the eaton chargers heat soaking and plus its easy to inter cool the vortech chargers...i will only be running it on pump gas 98... can anyone help me out if what i'm planing is a waste of money should i be keeping some stuff stock, main thing is 400rwhp and reliability but hey in saying that more horse power the better... thanks

 

[XR8tt]

If it's the early 1UZ with stronger rods ?? I would run it with GOOD tune at 300 kw..
At that power level the rotating assembly is fine .. As said with good tune, NO detonation !!!
Then build the other engine slowly if you want to...
You are lucky there that many are used in stock cars..

Kiora ... Welcome to forums...

 

[coholm]

its a 1996, are the bigger rods in the pre 93?? is it really just the rods that dont hold up the extra pressure

 

[XR8tt]

Hope this helps...

http://www.lextreme.com/Toyota-Lexus-Rods.html

 

[coholm]

So a few years on and I haven't done any of the above, well until today... I have been out of the country for three years but I am returning to NZ with a new Vortech V3 supercharger with a 2.87 Pulley, the people I bought it off said I would be looking at getting about 10-12 PSI with that pulley.
I know if I had the older model engine with the bigger rods I would be fine with that much PSI, the problem is I have no idea of the age of my current motor lets just put at worse case scenario with the lighter rods how well do these handle 10-12 PSI, the only mods that have been done is a G4 link storm and Coil over Plug and I will have it professionally tuned again once SC is installed.

for some reason UCF20 & UCF21 pops into my mind.

Thanks in advance

 

[coholm]

I Will be running an intercooler as well.

 

[Zuffen]

Not well.

From what we hear around 8psi see them in trouble.

 

[coholm]

.... Mmmm interesting, so if it pops/when I may aswell just, buy a pre 95 as I should have better luck with them? Right?

 

[Zuffen]

Yes an early will hold together better/longer.

Justen of GT8 fame has had great success with early engines and getting excellent power and longevity out of them.

 

[coholm]

Cheers Rod for the response I have spent a couple of days looking through lextreme for what engines everyone is using to get these big numbers without anyone mentioning the year of engine, I figured it was the earlier models that are pushing 10 - 17 PSI.
I Kinda was looking for someone out there that has done the 10-12 psi on the later model one? If there is anyone?... What I was thinking was having a switch back to the Ecu which pretty just controls the RPM Limter and have one set at 7000 and the other say 5500-6000 meaning the SC will only be able to spoil up to say 8+\-PSI when cruising along and then just for a bit of fun ever now and again 10-12 psi switch?

 

[gloverman]

I just did a stock VVti with 5ish psi up it. It still runs but was pretty touchy to setup. The early ones are really easy to sort out. We flick the heads off and fit up some steel gaskets and new head bolts. Cams make the power flow much easier. Last one of these didnt quite clip 500hp at the wheels. (search hiace and you should find it) I would also recommend fitting up some rod bolts but this setup is a cheap way of make power. Rods and pistons are getting cheaper these days but there is easier ways of making power ie 2jz(stocker internals today made 500rwkw) LS1,2,3. Dont forget the hilux will need suitable brakes , Cooling system, suitable gearbox and clutch as well.

 

[coholm]

Thanks Gloverman/Kelvin
You may remember my maroon ute, you actually finished the project of for me about three years ago, you put the extractors in and notched the rear and a few more things!
I think i will fit the vortech and see how it goes I keep reading all over the net different scenarios, i.e. quoted from a google search "I haven't blown a 1uz but I have blown a 2uz running 9 lbs of boost (supercharger) and 150 hp shot of nitrous. I had about 150 runs on the completely stock motor when it blew".
From what i have read it looks like alot of the motors that blow seem to be the ones running the stock ecu and leaning out, correct me if I'm wrong.
Also being a 2uz my 1uz would have a stronger crank but very similar rods is that correct would that give me a little bit more strength? I'm getting desperate haha

Kelvin do you put thinker head gaskets in or just oem ones from one of the other UZ family?

I will Restrict the RPM which will save me a bit and only use the Redline switch when playing around. I don't expect it to last long but i would like to hope it may last 10,000 - 20,000km. Am i dreaming? Will it blow as soon as it sees 10psi?

Thanks

 

[gloverman]

We go for slightly thinker steel aftermarket gaskets. At the end of the day it's up to you weather you buy a early motor now or later. Even the early motors pop if they are tuned wrong so you can just call it development. With good tuning it should hold together for quite a while. The S/C should enhance the uz torque so there will be little need to rev it to hard.

 

[coholm]

All bolted up just finishing intercooler plumbing, while I had the cover off i looked at the fuel regulator, to be honest I don't know how these work exactly but looking at it I was thinking vacuum from the inlet manifold would control the regulator... Question is how does it work once FI, do I need to worry about it, I will have bigger injectors and as already mention I'm running a link so can manage fuel that way but just would like to clear the reg up, also anything else I should be aware of as it seems a little to simple at this stage so I'm thinking I may have over looked something?

 

[JustenGT8]

Fuel reg will work fine under boost.

I'd get a larger air filter though, that one wont be doing your power any favours

 

[coholm]

Cheers for that.... Mmmm I'm thinking the same it is similar dimensions what vortech sell and I don't won't to go cutting holes to make a bigger one fit, I might see how the dyno goes and see after that, from your experience am I wasting my time with that one? Are the foam ones any good?

 

[JustenGT8]

Just do a run on the dyno without the filter....1 run won't hurt anything and you'll gave good back to back power and AFR results to compare. I'm interested what the difference will be....we should run a book

 

[coholm]

Hoping to tune it late January so I'll post dyno results

 

[20vseven]

Something bigger than that cost me 30 hp at the wheels (11lb boost setup). It was a bit embarrassing as removing the filter was the last thing we tried after chasing a couple of horsepower here and there. You need something bigger diameter and twice as long!

 

[coholm]

Bugger... Might have to cut more holes... Not liking that idea!! Also just took my clutch out to get a looking over, was that 11lb on a 1uz? How much torque did it make, just wanna give the clutch guys an idea of what I'm hoping for?
Cheers