1UZ Hiace
- Thread starter gloverman
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
around there it does but by slowing the speed signal to the auto ecu i can get it to change later in the revs
but that is at full throttle
at light throttle it changes at 3000 and at that rpm its gutless hehe bogs down if u suddenly go from light to full throttle and it doesnt kick back
but that is at full throttle
at light throttle it changes at 3000 and at that rpm its gutless hehe bogs down if u suddenly go from light to full throttle and it doesnt kick back
Peewee
New Member
Ah k.
Sounds like you have something wrong then.
While the 1uz is no toruqe monster, its definately not what I would call sluggish, even below 3000rpm. And this is pulling 1500+kg.
With POWER on, kickdown is almost instant with more than about 70% throttle.
This is a Soarer ECU though.
Sounds like you have something wrong then.
While the 1uz is no toruqe monster, its definately not what I would call sluggish, even below 3000rpm. And this is pulling 1500+kg.
With POWER on, kickdown is almost instant with more than about 70% throttle.
This is a Soarer ECU though.
dude your 1UZ V8 must have something wrong with it if your comparing it to a 308. I used to recon 308's and never found a standard one that bolted in or ran as good as the 1UZ seems to. not to mention the fact that 308's weigh a tonne in comparisson. On a Link factory tune my 1uz has more power than my uncles Cobra spec AU XR8 had.
its not sluggish
its just nothing to brag about
and its not just mine the workshops that do the conversions say the same thing
in manual trim the got much better
the crown has the least hp of all the 1uz so that doesnt help
on a cold night and havin just started my engine it screams
other times depending on rpm and gear and tgrottle position its can go good or sgit
i have found out it goes better with half throttle to 3/4 throttle taking off then slowly go to full throttle
at full throttle its way rich so i try not to hit full throttle
anyway thats just how i feel bout my thing
i guess im just used to it
when i say sluggish i dont mean like a 4 or 6cyl
just prone to heat i think
anyway ill drive it till it blows then get a newer 1uz for a good price
its just nothing to brag about
and its not just mine the workshops that do the conversions say the same thing
in manual trim the got much better
the crown has the least hp of all the 1uz so that doesnt help
on a cold night and havin just started my engine it screams
other times depending on rpm and gear and tgrottle position its can go good or sgit
i have found out it goes better with half throttle to 3/4 throttle taking off then slowly go to full throttle
at full throttle its way rich so i try not to hit full throttle
anyway thats just how i feel bout my thing
i guess im just used to it
when i say sluggish i dont mean like a 4 or 6cyl
just prone to heat i think
anyway ill drive it till it blows then get a newer 1uz for a good price
Hi I'm new at this and only a back yarder. I just finished putting a 1uz and supra5 into a 1974 hj 2-door Monaro. Had to do the hole thing my self due to budget and the fact there aren't to many shops aroand here that can help with odd mods. Any way heres the thing. When I first got the beasty runing I was a bit disappointed with the power. Then I found that when I earth out the two wires from the ECU that tell it that its in nuetral to start the power of the motor inproved 30%. I guess that it was running in limp mode before.
hi-lex
New Member
which wires/colour were they and what ecu r u using out of curiosity? I agree with sideshow with the auto, its how you drive it, the manual I did makes the auto feel like a diesel, diff ratio helps my auto is 3.7 ,too tall the man is 4.55 with 33" tall tyres and it flys off the line if you can get traction
The ecu runs motor and trans. One wire is blk/wht and on the wiring diagram gets power at ign/start befor going to the park /neutral switch. The other wire is black and goes to the other side of the park/neutral switch. I have joind the two and the ran them to earth. If I don't it runs in limp mod.
that doesnt make sense
the blkack/white is start signal after the inhibitor
the black/blue wire is start signal before the inhibotor so straight from the key
the only thing i can think of is
the start signal is 12v then when u stop crankin it gets and earth signal which backfeeds thru the starter solenoid
im guessin yr prob might be other probs
but anyway
the 1uz has a cold start injector so if u dont have the start signal to the ecu it doesnt matter to much
but if the ecu controls the enigne and gearbox i pressume u have a celsior or soarer they are the same plugs
and they have black/white for start signal to ecu after inhibitor
then black which is nsw which is start signal before the inhibitor
so only prob i coul dsee u had which ive come across before is if u had a start signal to these wire all the time
the ecu wouyld think u are crankin all the time so it has a different timing value
anyway its good u solved it
the blkack/white is start signal after the inhibitor
the black/blue wire is start signal before the inhibotor so straight from the key
the only thing i can think of is
the start signal is 12v then when u stop crankin it gets and earth signal which backfeeds thru the starter solenoid
im guessin yr prob might be other probs
but anyway
the 1uz has a cold start injector so if u dont have the start signal to the ecu it doesnt matter to much
but if the ecu controls the enigne and gearbox i pressume u have a celsior or soarer they are the same plugs
and they have black/white for start signal to ecu after inhibitor
then black which is nsw which is start signal before the inhibitor
so only prob i coul dsee u had which ive come across before is if u had a start signal to these wire all the time
the ecu wouyld think u are crankin all the time so it has a different timing value
anyway its good u solved it
Sorry if u got the wrong idea. I wasn't trying to tell u that that was the fult , only that ther could be a problem unknow to u that could be making you'r 1uz run in limp mode.
PS my 1uzfe is from a 94 LS 400 with no cold start injector. The one thing I have learnt is the more u listen the more u can achieve. Sometimes the most siplest thing can be the problem and sometimes there's more than one way to beat a problem. Oh and have fun doing it.
PS my 1uzfe is from a 94 LS 400 with no cold start injector. The one thing I have learnt is the more u listen the more u can achieve. Sometimes the most siplest thing can be the problem and sometimes there's more than one way to beat a problem. Oh and have fun doing it.
its ok i was just curious as to why it would make yr car go better just by esrthing those wires
alot of stuff these days is trial and error hehe
my 1uz runs good most of time
sometimes when u only have part throttle it changes gears way to early
i wish i copuld rev it to 5000 rpm with only half throttle but it just wont do that
std ecu changes at 3000 rpm at half throttle
thats how it is its a pain but im slowly starting to just drive it manually using shifter
it goes ok in the end i guess
alot of stuff these days is trial and error hehe
my 1uz runs good most of time
sometimes when u only have part throttle it changes gears way to early
i wish i copuld rev it to 5000 rpm with only half throttle but it just wont do that
std ecu changes at 3000 rpm at half throttle
thats how it is its a pain but im slowly starting to just drive it manually using shifter
it goes ok in the end i guess
yer i think so
its just a std crown auto
im goin to get it tricked up so shifts are bit harsher and quicker
i think if i play with the auto ill be bit mre out of it
i guess i just want more power hehe
but i wont waste money on slight mods
i can get parts to do twin turbo cheap and even free thru people i know
so its either std or full out so if it stays a work ute it will stay std
anyway the hiace i did felt ok off th emark but revved its tits on highway due to short diff ratio
its just a std crown auto
im goin to get it tricked up so shifts are bit harsher and quicker
i think if i play with the auto ill be bit mre out of it
i guess i just want more power hehe
but i wont waste money on slight mods
i can get parts to do twin turbo cheap and even free thru people i know
so its either std or full out so if it stays a work ute it will stay std
anyway the hiace i did felt ok off th emark but revved its tits on highway due to short diff ratio
awesome, when I drove my SC400 before i took the motor out (or started to), I noticed mine shifted sluggish as well. I think the light flywheel and the MR2 transmission will be fun, until it breaks, hahhaa I think the Rev3/4 MR2 transmission will last the power with no problem. The Rev3/4 make 240hp and 225tq stock which is close to my 250hp 4.0 liter. I cant wait! hahaha
oh yeah good luck with the turbo or manual swap or whatever you do!
jeff
oh yeah good luck with the turbo or manual swap or whatever you do!
jeff
If i was over there in aussie sideshow id let ya have my Soarer Auto to play with and see if that makes any difference.
I just got my hilux ute back up to hamilton and did a short trip between my sisters house and my flat, appart from running hell rich, it seems to pull it self along nicely. Cant wait to see how it goes on a decent tune.
I just got my hilux ute back up to hamilton and did a short trip between my sisters house and my flat, appart from running hell rich, it seems to pull it self along nicely. Cant wait to see how it goes on a decent tune.
hey just got new on the hiace with the 1uz
the original diff was a 4.3 which he removed during the conversion so he didnt test it with 4.3 and fitted a 3.5 so maybe this is why it was bit sluggish of the mark
the 3.5 diff was noisy so he took car back to diff mod and they had to fit his 4.3 back in and now they recon it feels so much better
my hilux was similar it had a 4.3 and now i have a 3.7 its better on hiways but off the mork its lots abit so maybe u have to sit down and see what diff is best for u
maybe ill look for a 4.1 in the future
the original diff was a 4.3 which he removed during the conversion so he didnt test it with 4.3 and fitted a 3.5 so maybe this is why it was bit sluggish of the mark
the 3.5 diff was noisy so he took car back to diff mod and they had to fit his 4.3 back in and now they recon it feels so much better
my hilux was similar it had a 4.3 and now i have a 3.7 its better on hiways but off the mork its lots abit so maybe u have to sit down and see what diff is best for u
maybe ill look for a 4.1 in the future
