1uz cutting out when coasting

[UhhOhh]

Gday,

I have a 1988 toyota 4runner that has had a 1uzfe conversion done with the standard G52 manual transmission. It starts well both hot and cold, drives great, revs freely, idles fine, normal power. The problem I am having is once the engine is warmed up when you are driving at any speed if you depress the clutch the engine will cut out. When cold this problem does not kill the engine (possibly due to cold idle I'm guessing). Once warm, the engine will cut out when coming to a stop with the clutch depressed every time. If you leave it in gear and let the wheels keep the engine turning you can engine brake all the way into first gear and if you slowly depress the clutch when doing ~2-5km/hr it will just hold on and recover to a steady idle. After the car cuts out once you turn the car back on it idles smoothly at the correct rpm.

I bought the car with this problem and the previous owner (who is the owner after the owner who did the conversion) said the previous owner before him said he needed a pulse reduction sensor to fix this problem. He said the wiring is there ready to be hooked up. I'm not sure this is the problem but if it's a clue to someone who has done a conversion that might spark an idea then that would be good.

My thoughts are speed sensor, however through reading I'm led to believe no speed sensor is needed to keep it running fine. This is the joys of buying a conversion already done.

Any further information needed just ask, thanks in advance.

Cheers,
Peter.

 

[litldv8]

have you gotton it fixed yet?

sticky iscv?
the bearings seize up in them
you can buy the bearings from any good bearing shop
may not be the problem but a good place to start looking
neil

 

[Bushwhacker]

Throttle damper missing?There's a small throttle damper next to the TPS that prevents the throttle butterfly from snapping shut, is yours fitted and working?

 

[cribbj]

If you're sitting in neutral and depress the clutch, does it kill the engine or do the revs drop? If so, that's a crank walk problem.

 

[gloverman]

I always recommend checking the power supply to the idle speed control unit. Start the engine, then unplug the idle speed control , turn the engine off and check there is power at the centre pins for 3-4seconds after you turn the engine off.

Cheers

 

[sideshow]

its not speed sensor
only holdens r anal withput speed sensor
its not the jpys of buying a car with a conversion
its the joys of buying a conversion that has been done sheit hehehehehehe

quickly go over throttle section
make sure it hasnt been tampered with
if it has just buy a good untampered 2nd hand throttle body ive seen guys play with the adjustment screws to cure other problems and stuff things up
u should never have to play with the butterfly adjustments

when its cold crimp off the hose feeding the idle motor
if it stalls exactly the same way and when u drive it then u know your idle motor
is sort of working ok
then get motor hot and crimp hose and see if it stalls
if it does then idle motor is ok when warm so prob might be elsewhere
if it doesnt stall then idle motr isnt working correctly

 

[samsdad]

And once you've done what sideshow has suggested check the TPS. When those go wrong they can cause all sorts of fun

 

[UhhOhh]

Hey sorry for the late reply, Turns out the VSS was not at fault at all as it's a dead input for the ecu (as sideshow mentioned). Turns out it was the charcoal canister/solenoid thingo.
Unplugged the unit and blocked the inlet ports and she's running great, a pressurised fuel tank and vapour smell around the canister straight after turning it off pointed towards this. The idle problem seemed to be a consequence of dodgy solenoid or canister feeding too much air. Anyway problem solved.

Thanks for all the input it was a great help.

 

[sideshow]

ive nearly had a major fk up when an idiot of a mechanic ran straight vac line on a crappy ford au v8 to the chacoal canister line from the tank and no canister inbetween

the plastic tank was sucked together by the vacuum from the motor
so it would run good for few mins then run crap
when the tank sucked shut it bent the metal pipes holding efi pump on inside tank
so this meant pump was sitting horizontal and not vertical as originally
and pump was so friken hot u could not touch it
me and another better mechanic was lucky it didnt blow up

this just proves how careful u have to be and like i always say if the mechanic hasnt done much work on conversions then its a bloody scary thing letting them work on youir car if its a conversion