12 psi on stock 1UZFE, Is it safe?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
No it wasnt stock, it has been fully built with forged internals and ARP studs.

I only mentioned it as a way of saying that the SAFC will work
Do you know if your GS ECU wiring is the same as the SC? Could you shed some lights on the diagram...etc?
 
Come on Stevy,

You know the answer already and why ask? Even the 1992 SC400 have two versions of the harness. What are the chances it would be the same? Even the similar year the 1992 LS400 and 1992 SC400 have completely different ecu plugs. The SC400 is more of square and the LS400 is alot flatter.

So the answer is ................?
 
Could you give some more info. on Justen's setup, or a link perhaps?

Morris,
Yes, was 17 psi on stock engine, or what have been done? I know David has been running 1 bar to 18 psi daily on his built motor.

Toymods link below:
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index....0&rid=2058&S=44cb3b328cff03bc8385033835676a75

He uses 13psi everyday which equates to 320rwkw or 428rwhp. 17psi at the track and lets just say he leans on it too around the track and could race against Aussie V8 supercars its that quick.
 
David,
I wasn't sure the LS and SC have different ECU plugs. I didn't search. Perhaps you let me drive your LS and find out...LOL. 2 "boobsted babies" at the same time. What is better than that?

HKS,
If 13 psi with stock internals is possible daily, then I'll calm myself down to 12 psi. 428 rwhp is nice, but 350 - 400 rwhp is all I'm looking into. This would equal to 400 crank hp or more. But the thing is I don't know how long it'll last.
 
But the thing is I don't know how long it'll last.

Neither does Justen but so far its holding together. Though like I said his is well tuned using an Autronic SM2. I better clarify what I meant before about piggybacks. To us Aussie's I guess we consider the conventional style piggyback, like an SAFC not to be up to the task of this sort of job. If we do need to do a piggyback system as in needing to keep the factory ECU, we will still use a quality standalone ECU and use it for fuel and ignition whilst the factory ECU will run the rest of the car like cold start, AC idle up control etc. Not using a conventional piggbyback to trick the factory ECU as I believe it doesn't have the necessary resolution to reliably handle this type of power on a stock engine whilst keeping some sort of reliability.

I believe he made 265rwkw or 355rwhp on only 7 PSI boost. So that is around the crank hp you are talking about with only 7PSI boost.
 
....I believe he made 265rwkw or 355rwhp on only 7 PSI boost. So that is around the crank hp you are talking about with only 7PSI boost.
I've read that several supercharged or turbocharged 1UZFE only makes an additional of around 80 hp with 6-7 psi. This would make only 260 rwhp total. A stock 1UZ SC400 or Soarer only dynos at around 182 rwhp.
 
I would say that is about right for most supercharged cars but properly sized twin turbos like Justen has obviously make a lot more even at that low boost. It really depends on the compressor maps of the turbos for instance old school non ball bearing turbos don't require a lot of boost to make power. Whereas the new gen HKS ball bearing turbos require a lot of boost before before they get into the meat of their efficiency and make good power.

Boost is relative and can't really be compared between 2 different size turbos, power wise. 1 may require 18psi to make the same power as another at only 10psi. So its not something you can say 7psi only gives you 80hp more.
 
Hey Steve,
HKS is pretty well on the money there. I made 265rwkw on 6.5psi, run around mostly on 12-13psi for 320rwkw and have been turning up the wick lately to 17psi for somewhere around 400rwkw.....all stock internals.

One minor correction, i haven't raced with 17psi yet, just the 320rwkw. Car is plenty quick enough at that level and a few other mods to do before i bother trying to race with more hp.
 
Hey Steve,
HKS is pretty well on the money there. I made 265rwkw on 6.5psi, run around mostly on 12-13psi for 320rwkw and have been turning up the wick lately to 17psi for somewhere around 400rwkw.....all stock internals.

One minor correction, i haven't raced with 17psi yet, just the 320rwkw. Car is plenty quick enough at that level and a few other mods to do before i bother trying to race with more hp.
Justen,
You're awesome! Your turbo setup is very efficient. That's why it makes so much kw or hp on that psi level. So yours is a stock 1UZFE engine? The reason that I ask because as I read about your posts on the Toymods forum, it seems like your engine has a different engine code. I forgot the formula to convert the wkw to hp, can you help out? I remember it has to do with a number 746..etc. for calculation.
 
It sounds very promising with this stock 1UZ. Tuning is a must. I'm thinking about adding 2 additional fuel injectors (for more than 7 psi) on the intake pipe and before the TB and run an injector controller for tuning them. I never did this before. This way, most of the stock fuel system can be kept. What do you think about the working result and cost? Is it easier than running 8 larger injectors with a piggy-back ECU?
 
Totally stock internals Steve. A Crown engine i think, just a japanese import. Fuel system is upgraded, Autronic ECU and obviously the turbos but all else is stocincluding the ignition.
 
Justen,
Did you have to retard any timing at all?
 

Attachments

  • intake-valve.JPG
    intake-valve.JPG
    50.1 KB · Views: 10
  • intake-valve-2.JPG
    intake-valve-2.JPG
    35.8 KB · Views: 9
Over stock? yes very much so. Full custom tune for fuel and timing as is required once you go after market ECU. From memory i run 18 deg advance at full load. Could probably sneak a bit more in but seems safe so will stay with that for now.
 
you can upgrade to 7MGTE 440cc injectors, or RX7 550cc injectors for a quick and easy bolt in fuel issue fix.

adding 2 extra injectors is - and always will be - a stop gap.
 
OK. but at 8 psi and upgrade the injectors size . Do i have to retard any timing ?? ( Stock ECU )


The only way is to jump one teeth or to modify the rotor cap . What you think ??
 
Justen, what octane do you run, that plays a key role in the amount of advance you can run at a given boost level. Are the ratings there RON or r+m/2?
 
98 Octane as far as i know...Caltex Vortex plus. For dyno and track i also run a dose of octane booster which has been tested to give an extra 3 octane points (have to check the brand).
 


Back
Top