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The engine will not run well for 15 or more minutes after the ECU has been disconnected. Give it some time and it may/should come good. If it dosne't settle down to an good idle start thinking about the caps in the ECU.

Under the intake manifold. A bit hard to get at but not impossible. They suffer from heat stress and if you have the engine out get it overhauled (or put a new one in) and be sure it will start.

Take the cover off and do some measurements. If the seal is on the crank all good. if not it needs to be backed off. I would trust Cartune implicitly.

What would be the benefit of removing the vacuum hoses? In the past it hasn't produced any horsepower and most likely would affect drivability. It may look better but no performance gain.

Depends what the donor car is. You need the ECU and body plug that fits into it. If the car runs a fuel computer, get it and the loom that runs between the ECU and Fuel unit. Get the factory diagnostic plug from under the dash and the loom for it. You need the igniters for the ignition. If...

Co-incidentally the bore spacing is exactly the same.

1800 CFM each, but not in a pusher environment. A fan won't move anywhere as much air pushing as pulling, particularly with a good functional shroud, The high idle won't help it one bit. I know room is at a premium but I would try and fit an external oil cooler for the trans plus an oil...

Usually the biggest hurdle is getting the engine to fit in the engine bay. The engine is basically 700mm x 700mm x700mm. I would think the vehicle may not have enough room for the heads (the widest part) but start measuring and let us know what you get.

Some Crowns don't use a fuel ECU. They have a large resistor that drops the voltage to the fuel pump. When starting the fuel pump is in high speed mode and drops to low almost immediately (say 3 seconds) and this may be your problem. If you don't have the resistor in circuit it may not supply...

Moving firewalls creates lots of interesting problems with lots of interesting solutions. If you want (or need) to keep things like heating and defrosting functional it is a real task. Think about it very hard before you start cutting. I've built two vehicles (well the same vehicle twice!)...

Performance just had an upgrade. What other mods aside form the supercharger are there?

Send the ECU to New Zealand and have Gloverman look at it for you. Kelvin is honest and will repair it if possible for a reasonable price.

No idea and it's a very unusual problem so don't expect a response that says it's a "XYZmm x XYZ pitch." All I can suggest is clean up the existing thread as best you can until the cap fits and seals. Start at the top and work your way down.

I would be more than lot surprised if any Torque Converter will give you a horsepower increase worth noting. A higher stall will put the engine further up the torque curve and hence more power before it engages drive. This is true for any higher stall converter.

Considering vehicles go up and down hills the engine is rarely absolutely level I wouldn't stress. My 1UZ in a 4x4 is low at the rear and rear sump and it has never run out of oil pressure. Sure the crank may splash in the oil on extreme hills but how would you know if it was or wasn't?

Low idle is common after disconnecting power to ECU. IT usually sorts itself out after a bit of running. Minutes not hours.

What you need is a frequency converter. Whilst I haven't checked ebay may produce something from China, if you don't mind using their junk, but it may be an option to explore. Electronics stores will sell a kit or complete item at a better price than what you find on car parts sites.

I'd say early Crown engine. A JDM import.

There's a guy called Kevin who lives in Leith who is putting a 1UZ into a Ford Thames Doormobile. Try Googling for him as I don't have an address.

The non-grounding of the igniters would be the biggest cause of 1UZs not firing in all the start ups on this Forum. You did well to track it down.