Wiring Harness Options...

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JZH

Member
Wiring harnesses for the 1UZ-2UZ-3UZ engine conversions seem to fall into two categories: (a) modified OEM harnesses like those supplied by Gloverman (of this Forum), or (b) expensive but amazing works of art like those supplied by Chris at Phoenix Engine Management. But I'm wondering if there might be a middle ground option as well: building a new harness using new terminals and connectors where necessary, but using common thin-wall automotive cable instead of race-spec TE "Spec 55" MIL-W-22759/32 wire?

I'm not building a race car, so buying or building a race-spec wiring harness seems like overkill. (See: Motorsports ECU Wiring Harness Construction) OEM-quality should be fine. But, what type of wire does Toyota/Lexus use in its OEM wiring harnesses?

The aftermarket automotive cable available in the UK mostly seems to be PVC-insulated cable (aka GPT) made to ISO 6722-1:2011 (Class B), rated up to 105ºC with "excursions" up to 120ºC. It is commonly available in ten solid colours (at least in the smaller sizes) with up to ten "striped" or "tracer" colours also available for each of these. That makes it very useful for mimicking OEM wiring colours (especially when compared with Spec 55, which is (most easily) available in any colour you want--as long as it's white!) My current favourite supplier in the UK is ALM Solutions, but it is also available from Altec Automotive, Kojaycat, ECS, Auto Sparks, 12v Planet, Car Builder Solutions, Polevolt, AES and Vehicle Wiring Products.

The automotive cable most available in the US (TXL) seems to be XLPE-insulated cable made to SAE J-1128, rated up to 125ºC. There doesn't seem to be much crossover across the Pond between PVC and XLPE, but Eland Cables in the UK does have some information comparing them: FAQ: The benefits of XLPE insulated cables | Eland Cables.

(For reference, "Spec 55 wire is insulated with modified radiation cross-linked ETFE polymer. It has a temperature rating of -65°C to 200°C continuous using a silver plated copper conductor". It also costs 3-4x as much as PVC-insulated cable... Considering a UZ wiring harness uses around 300m of cable, that difference is significant.)

In the real world, there probably isn't much difference between PVC and TXL, although TXL seems to have somewhat better heat resistance (and PVC is readily available in the UK in approximately 100 solid/stripe colour combinations, which is nice).

True, Spec 55 is rated for much higher temperatures than either PVC or TXL, but most of the cable in a custom automotive wiring harness will be enclosed in a protective sheath of some kind, such as the traditional race-spec 2:1 Raychem DR-25 heat-shrink tubing, which has an operating temperature range of 75°C to 150°C. (The standard DR-25 alternatives are 4:1 Raychem ES2000, which is rated for -40°C to 130°C, and 2.5:1 Raychem SCL, which is rated for –55°C to 110°C.) Excessive heat really should not be an issue at the ECM end of things, and the other end can be sealed with moulded boots/RT-125 epoxy on Deutsche DTM connectors, so, sheath your PVC cable in DR-25 and it should be protected pretty well, no?

Ciao,

JZH
 
Is there really 300 metres of cable in a UZ engine loom?

If someone had asked me I would have said "perhaps 50-60" Way wrong.

The PVC should be fine as 105 would be above normal operating temp and 120 could be with heat soak after the engine has stopped.

The heat around the manifold would be my biggest area of concern but I've seen plenty of PVC used in that area without any issues.
 
I was also sceptical about the figure when I first saw it (in a Phoenix harness quote I was given), but there are a lot of wires going to the engine! In my current wiring diagram I count 87 from the three engine plugs, plus another 27 from other places (I have added several new sensors and this is for a 6-speed auto). At an average of 2m each, that's 228m, and at 2.5m, it's 285m. Maybe it's actually less than 300m, but it's at least 200m. (I have to fit the ECM outside the engine bay on my Hiace, so my harness might be longer than most--and I'll probably be wasting a lot of wire in the process of making a full engine harness for the first time!)

You make a good point about manifold heat. So long as I'm going to be using sub-harnesses for the IGN, INJ and knock-sensor wires (like Phoenix does) I could also split the baby and use Spec 55 for the sub-harnesses, with the rest being multi-colour PVC thin-wall (and maybe also use Spec 55 for the O2 sensor wires). That might be the best compromise between heat resistance, wire identification and cost?

What gives me the most comfort about using non race-spec wire is that Toyota doesn't seem to use it, so PVC or TXL would probably work at least as well as OEM.

Ciao,

JZH
 


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