which super charger?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

zen

New Member
need some low down grunt,happy with top end..

1uz-fe in range rover.

not looking for mega power as engine is standard 1995 10.5:1 poopy rods version..

so low boost,but needs to be instant..so supercharger rather than turbo..

will be air to air intercooled not water.m90 or m112??

thanks
 
My vote is for the m112. Not much extra cash to get into over the m90 and puts out a LOT less heat than the m90 will. Also, a premade manifold will fit either one. How much hood clearance are you looking at?
 
M112 and gear it so it puts out 9psi or less and the rods should hold up. THis would also help keep the heat out of the charge air.

Running external intercooling on any Eaton is complcated.

If I ever get mine back together I'll forward some photos and you'll see what I mean.

'd try it without any intercooling first and see how it goes.
 
Here are the option:

* M90
* M112/MP112
* Twin Screw

Depending on your budget, the last one will be much higher. I would suggest M112/MP112 because most people with M90 eventually upgrade to some other charger.
 
Don't go centrifugal if you want low end grunt.

Centrifugal's work like turbos. Usually have boost up high and zilch down low.
 
Has anyone here done a m112, can't remember seeing any pics anywhere?

I just acquired an M90 to try out PD blowers, but am keen on a m112 if it actually fits (my engine sits back near the firewall)
 
Yep they don't use a turbo on trucks for torque Lol..
They are load dependant not rpm ...
Either blower is better than non..
Just make sure you use one that's up to your power goals..
It's better to pulley down than it is to pulley up to get your power goals..
Heat builds up when they are working so hard if too small...
A centri can be fitted in one day...
 
need some low down grunt,happy with top end..

1uz-fe in range rover.

not looking for mega power as engine is standard 1995 10.5:1 poopy rods version..

so low boost,but needs to be instant..so supercharger rather than turbo..

will be air to air intercooled not water.m90 or m112??

thanks

If you are TRULY happy with the top end, IOW, you will not fall victim to wanting more once you taste more...

If you are wanting to do this on a budget (always questionable) and you want to go air to air IC...

The Eaton 90 will take a little less power to rotate and may actually be slightly more efficient at lower flows than the 112. It is lighter and cheaper. Of course this is ONLY considering your low power intent.

If you are not as budget limited the new TVS pumps are MUCH better than any other roots style unit and in some ways challenge a screw compressor.
 
thanks foe replys...

re hood clearence..if i have to have it sticking out a hole cut in it i wont mind..proberly make me grin alot actually..

main concern is keeping costs down and not having car off road for too long,so all the info i can get the better..

ie where to mount an m90/112 and where/how to arrange drive pulleys..also is clutch viable (as really wont be needing it on while stuck in london rush hour traffic)

thanks
 

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re air to air interrcooling..i have a good intercooler .money saved..

re budget..look the whole car (1972 2 door range rover)was MENT to be on a budget, but now is up to £10k..thats pounds not dollars..so i know me, i need to try atleast to keep the costs down otherwise i can see me falling down the long slippery road to 500hp and opps another 10k gone..

having said that...i need to beable to burn off that really annoying porshe cayenne turbo near me..and all those range rover sports.and..and...

and remember bendy rody mk2 1uz-fe, so limited there to max power..(though i do have a mk1 engine just sitting around)
 
Like JBrady said you can save cash with the M90 and at 8psi it works fine on a 4.0L but will offer less hp than the m112. If your up against a cayenne turbo you wont touch him with an m90 at max boost, those bad boys put down a grip but an m112 can put you on par if thoughtout. Does the neighbor's cayenne have the optional manual? Those suv's are 5,000lb... what does your range weight?

Just my $0.2
 
My option would be a package from Richwood's that included the manifold drive system (dedicated 8 rib) M90 and inlet plenum for the Toyota T/B to bolt to.


It won't be real cheap but at least it will all work together and be a bolt on operation and work first go. In reality it may work out cheaper than doing it 3 times to make it all work.

An M112 would be nice but costs more and more likely to break arod as you keep going for more boost.

An A2A intercooler would require a spacer plate between the supercharger and manifold where the air could be taken out of the supercharger -> intercooler -> back into the manifold. It would have to be a minimum of 65mm high. Andrew from Richwood built mine and he won't build another.

A standard Range Rover weighs around 4,000lbs.
 
Zuffen has a valid point about the rods. I didn't notice the uz was a 1995. Rods will allow over 2x the boost and allows the m112 to really move some air but the rods + rebalance + hardware + labor + the enevidible tune can get out of hand real quick :p
 
Zuffen has a valid point about the rods. I didn't notice the uz was a 1995. Rods will allow over 2x the boost and allows the m112 to really move some air but the rods + re balance + hardware + labor + the inevitable tune can get out of hand real quick :p

On a tech point of view this is where a turbo helps in durability..
Set up right they can have power whenever you want..
Turbo's have massive mid range torque...
Too much power at low rpm is VERY hard on rotating assembly...
I wouldn't disregard a centrifugal for this reason either..
The higher compression doesn't help with durability ..
But will help in low rpm torque to a point..
 
Just drop the mk1 engine in with an Eaton / Harrop TVS 1900, no inter cooling required. I'm running 11 psi and only see a delta T of max 20c when under prolonged boost. 95% of the time you will find the SC will just increase the engine VE and not even come on +ve boost when normal driving. Mash your right foot and things change real quick.

I have found that normal driving and cruise I now use less fuel with the SC fitted.

Best money I ever spent.
 
thanks for reply..

need to keep the 1995 engine in there for now,(i want to drive it,took a year to build it up from scratch)
m112 go quite cheap here..sub £200..(just missed one on ebay,went for £250 with complete install kit for a vauxhall v6, all brand new.bugger)
if i put the mk1 uz in then i will be wanting to rebuild it first..(its fine,just might as well as if going that far might as well do properly)

so m90 fine, untill i need more power, then m112 but need mk1 engine to go with it...

ok on to ebay..
 
problem with M90 is that you have to get the smallest pully to make 6-7psi, and that will take the M90 past its effciency range. Only going to make 50hp over stock.

And the little M90 won't make a dent of difference against that Cheyenne. Even the M112 may not get you there.


Problem is your rods, they just won't take much.
 


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