IAT works all the time & provides a minor correction factor to the ECU. Tho you would think it is important because you need it to accurately derrive the MASS of the incoming airflow - it honestly has little control over the fuel calculations.
If it's dead, you can buy a little $1 thermistor at radioshack & replace it. It's a little harder with an AFM, but not possible. For that matter, if you don't mind the ECU thinking it's 68*F all the time, you could take the regulated 5v power feed AKA VC (sent from the ECU that powers the AFM/MAF/whatever your engine uses), put a 2.5K ohm resistor on the line & feed THAT to the ECU to replace the THA signal.
(THA = name for the IAT signal)
In an AFM it's a little thermistor hanging down on the front of the housing:
On a MAF, they're generally on the side:
Most of Toyota's IAT's have a THA (That's the IAT signal) (I'm interpolating off a chart, but that should be accurate) resistance of:
Temp = middle of spec on chart = plublished TOK range
32*F = 4K ohm = 4-7k omh
68*F = 2.5k ohm = 2-3k ohm
104*F = 1k ohm = 0.9-1.3k ohm
Regardless of AFM, or MAF. They're both the same thing.
My 3vz-fe's IAT sensor in the AFM housing currently (This second) reads:
2.71k ohm @ 70*F. Pretty dang close LoL!
What you need to do tomorrow morning before you crank the car is: Take a thermometer outside & record the temp. Take your MAF/AFM connector off & check the resistance of the THA signal VS the E2 ground.
I can't help you with the pin-outs - you'll need someone else to tell you that.
Anywho... That's how you test the IAT.