Water Pump and Timing Belt

[Lextreme II]

Attacking this repair one hour at a time. So far, i have taken out most of the parts except the crank pully. Since i have single turbo, i would need to take out the downpipe (DP is on the way of the crank pulley 22 mm screw) I got a set of pulley puller already, but need to get the crew to get the crank pulley out. So far its not that bad. I dont have much time, but i am working on it an hour or so each time.

Here is a OEM Instruction on Timing Belt Replacement and Water Pump Replacement

 

[Peewee]

To get the crank bolt off, use a breaker bar (18" locked rachet) and brace it against the subframe or floor, then crank the motor.
Unplug the ignitors so the motor doesn't start.

Its by far the easiest way of doing it.

 

[Lextreme II]

Ok,

I am about to install the timing belt. I aligned the crank to the "Zero" Mark and the camshaft marks are align with the timing belt mark. I want to double check the timing if i install it correctly. When i turn the crank pulley, the whole marks are messed up. I have heard turning two complete cycles will get back to the marks. Is that true? I just want to double check before installing everything back.

 

[Peewee]

No, it will take a lot more that 2 revs to get the marks back.

There is about 15ish teeth on the crank pulley, and well over 150 on the belt, so it would take probably 10 turns to line them back up again, if they even would.

Wind it through 2 turns, put the lower timing cover back on, pop the crank pulley on and put it back to TDC. The 2 cams should now line up with the 2 marks (dont do what I did and get the cam angle sensor tabs mixed up with the cam timing marks)

 

[Lextreme II]

Cam Angle Sensor... i almost made that mistake too. The two protruded pieces on the rear of the cam pulley. The mark in the front of the cam right.

 

[Guts]

After the 1st drive of my 1uz hilux the motor now leaks water really badly which runs off the bottom of the crank pully, from behind the front cover. I`m guessing the water pump has **** a seal.

Since I don`t have much mechanical knowledge is this something I am best to get a mechanic to do? I`m not scared to have a go but I just don`t know much about motors.

 

[Muzza_NZ]

Guts,
It's a piece of cake if you take your time and mark everything - the mechanic will likely charge you a <not so> small fortune to sort it out (think of a number, double it, then add some zero's...)

There's a great tutorial here: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html

Muzz

 

[KDog]

Yeah it isn't very hard but it is time consuming (which is why the mech will charge a lot) so you have to be methodical, to make sure you put everything back in the correct order etc. Other than that its just undoing bolts.
Use the starter to remove the crank bolt as previously descibed.
Move the crank to zero mark, so that the cam marks line up. These are small scribe marks on notches on the cam wheels and enarby on the engine.
They are NOT the small metal tabs on the cam wheels, these are the teeth for the crank angle sensors. The cam marks on the belt line up with the cam marks, that's how you know that your cams/engine timing is correct.
To remove the water pump is another few bolts.

 

[Guts]

Cool thanks dudes, I might give it a go myself with a bit of advice help from a mechanic mate that owes me a few favours anyway.

Now how costly is the water pump and timing belt in Aus dollars? and what are the things I should do at a min?

 

[Muzza_NZ]

Guts,
If you're going to all the trouble of doing the water pump ($120NZD, so about $100AUD) you may as well do the cambelt ($220NZD, so about $180AUD), idler bearings ($80NZD) and depending on the age of your 1UZ, the distributor rotors ($100NZD for 2) as well... its cheap insurance brother

Muzz

 

[Lextreme II]

Do it all at once.....

 

[-Nemesis-]

Guts,
If you're going to all the trouble of doing the water pump ($120NZD, so about $100AUD) you may as well do the cambelt ($220NZD, so about $180AUD), idler bearings ($80NZD) and depending on the age of your 1UZ, the distributor rotors ($100NZD for 2) as well... its cheap insurance brother

Muzz

I got a price of a mate that works at Toyota for a new timing belt, he said $45 which is trade price, but they're normally AUS$75...
I guess i'd better check that it's the right belt. A 1UZ is a 1UZ isn't it?

 

[Peewee]

Muzza's prices were a bit off.
He has cambelt @ $220, idler bearings @ $80

Its closer to cambelt @ $80, and idler bearings @ $220

 

[-Nemesis-]

Yeah that's what I was thinking......

I've just started the timing belt on my new Celsior donk. Do you guys know if you need to attack the water pump to get at it? If so i'm thinking about replacing at least the seal after what happened to Guts...

 

[Zuffen]

The waterpump can stay on undisturbed.
Do as the guys say. Replace the pump. I haven't heard of a rebuild kit and at the price of a new pump and the peace of mind it will give do it.

Put the swap off for a couple of weeks if have to so you can do it right first time.

Think of the hassle of pulling it all apart again just to change a pump you could have done so easilly whilst it was allready apart.

 

[-Nemesis-]

Yeah good point. It's just sitting on the ground at the moment so it should be a piece of p.... Luckily i've hooked onto a mate at Toyota and can get trade prices.

 

[Muzza_NZ]

Damn I was ripped off then... or maybe I just made a mistake

 

[-Nemesis-]

Hehe well, in theory you weren't ripped off cos it's the same total for the two...

 

[stevechumo]

Guts,
It's a piece of cake if you take your time and mark everything - the mechanic will likely charge you a <not so> small fortune to sort it out (think of a number, double it, then add some zero's...)

There's a great tutorial here: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html

Muzz

You got a very helpful instruction there on timing belt. However, we don't have to do more than necessary as the link show. I got help from a friend who is a Toyota mechanic for 20 years and so he did an amazing job. We didn't have to disconnect the alternator, but just remove the bolt and put it aside. Also, removing the radiator and its fan is not necessary since there's plenty of room to work on. I only needed to disconnect the hydraulic fan oil hose. It took me and my friend only 2.5 hours to complete the timing belt, replacing the front crank seal, 2 cam seals, sparkplug seals, sparkplug wires (Don't ever use Bosch wire again, they're not in the correct length, they're a pain in the ass), valve cover gaskets, timing tensioner bearing, idler bearing, water pump, distributor caps & rotors, drive belt, and thermostat. My friend also amazed me by not marking or aligning the timing before removal. Basically, he only aligned the timing when he put it on. After all, my '95 SC 400 ran just as smooth as before.

When I asked him how much the dealer would charge for replacing just the timing belt, he said it would be around $700 sharp. So I recommend anyone replacing the timing belt should also replace several things under the timing belt at at time. It costs now but it'll save your money in the future when things break down.

 

[Nath]

I just pulled my water pump on the weekend which was easy as it's on a stand and not in a car.
I thought the engine was empty of fluids but of course as I popped off the Pump I was covered in Green engine coolant.

I felt really stupid and had to clean up a big mess I was not prepared for.

So if your going to do this, do make sure the engine is empty.