Turbo Selection for 2UZ

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

tundrafiend01

New Member
Greetings:

I am in the research phase of turbo charging a '01 Tundra. My goal is to produce 7.5-8 psi and hopefully 400+ rwhp. By using the tutorial found at: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_tech103.html I began looking at various maps. The map that looks closest to what I need/want can be found at: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT40/GT4088R.htm. I would appreciate any questions, comments, concerns, and or suggestions.

Thanks for your time.
 
Do you intend on trying to acheive 400 rwhp with the stock 2uz rods, exsperiance tells me they wont handle it.
 
1UZ rods fit the 2UZ crank with no mods as far as i'm aware.

that had better be right, coz i have a set of billet rods from a 1UZ i am wanting to put in a 2UZ.
 
ROds

What is a reliable boost / hp range for the 1uz rods? I want to just switch the rods in my 2uz and possibly boost SuperC/ turbo. can you just switch them? or does the crank require a fresh surface area for the new rods to ride on?
 
Rod Bolts

Just as important as the rods for a boosted application are the rod bolts...they will fail if not of sufficient strength when subjected to boost, high rpm or a combination of both. I have Eagle SBC forged H-beam rods and ARP L19 rod bolts in my 2UZ and I feel comfortable they will take whatever I can throw at them (S/C + Turbo + Nitrous + Alcohol Injection)

Wayne
 
i think the rod bolts arent as important in a low revving turbo motor. the only truly high stresses they would get is on the intake stroke. but the turbo pressure should be pushing on the top of the piston, instead of the crank having to pull on the bottom of the rods to get air into the chamber. whats the redline for your engine rytherwr? i would like some an opinion on what ive said.
 
Hey, Anaema...you are absolutely correct....low rpm is not much danger on good rod bolts....I have arbitrarily redlined my motor at 7K rpm...won't know the good or bad of that until I get all the power adders on it and get it on the dyno to figure out where the power is.

Wayne
 
Personally I think the GT4088R is little too big for your 7.5 psi application. There is another version is GT4082R. However, I would suggest GT35R or slightly smaller.

I guess I missed the boat on reading compressor maps. For example, why is this map:
GT35R.jpg
better than this map: (T61)
t61.gif
for the 2UZ?
What about this map: (T04B 60-1)
60-1.gif

It looks like the 60-1 map would be more efficient for the 2UZ than the GT35R. But, I'm not sure. Any light anyone can put on this subject would be appreciated greatly.

Hillbilly:

400 HP is the max I want to push the 2UZ without some forged internals and bottom-end work.
 
He is actually dead on with the GT4088R if he want to maintain 7.5psi to readline.

The lbs/min rate on a 4.7L with 7.5 PSI is is going to be roughly 48lbs/min and with the exception of the T61, non will support that. Even the T61 is not a good choice cause in the top of the RPM range, the turbo will start to fall into an inefficient range, where as the GT4088R is still at about 70% efficiency in the top of the RPM range
 
Looks like this is an older thread but rather than start a new one with the same questions, I thought I'd chime in as a newbie.

My application is a 2000 Tundra. It is a daily driver for now & it also serves as a tow vehicle. I have a unichip with the FI program (for TRD S/C application though). I purchased an STS kit that is coming to me second hand minus the turbo & wastegate but includes the FMU. So before I buy a turbo I thought I'd solicit some more advice.

The GT35R that was with the kit is staying with the dude who sold it to me and he loves it. Not trying to reinvent the wheel, just trying to make sure. I also read about Master Power Turbos, and found this one on eBay for about 1/2 of the cost of a GT35R. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mast...ryZ33742QQihZ001QQitemZ110209912130QQtcZphoto

What do you guys think?
 
Hey James,

Thanks for signing up as a paid member. We really appreciate your support. I thin, MP is a great turbo. It is just like Garrett with half of the price. That 60-1 is pretty much prefect for the stock 4.7L application. It will max out around 550 rwhp. .63 A/R will be very good for street application. As for me, I will be using two of that similar turbos to the link above but with smaller A/R. Once again, go for it.....

By the way, I was in your area a month ago.
 
Just as important as the rods for a boosted application are the rod bolts...they will fail if not of sufficient strength when subjected to boost, high rpm or a combination of both. I have Eagle SBC forged H-beam rods and ARP L19 rod bolts in my 2UZ and I feel comfortable they will take whatever I can throw at them (S/C + Turbo + Nitrous + Alcohol Injection)

Wayne


So did you have to modify the Chevy rods or did they just drop right in?
 
Hey James,

Thanks for signing up as a paid member. We really appreciate your support. I thin, MP is a great turbo. It is just like Garrett with half of the price. That 60-1 is pretty much prefect for the stock 4.7L application. It will max out around 550 rwhp. .63 A/R will be very good for street application. As for me, I will be using two of that similar turbos to the link above but with smaller A/R. Once again, go for it.....

By the way, I was in your area a month ago.


You're welcome. I figure the $ will go to good use & I have already learned a ton. You guys have some amazing things happening here and some really great information.

My max hp target is no where near 500, more like 300-350. I have the unichip, headers and am now ready to go with forced induction. It's a whole new world to me.
 
Morris...had to modify the rods..can't remember if we changed the rod journals or the rods themselves for fit, but also need to clearance the big ends (for width) to fit.
 


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