TTC Transmission Adapter Plate
- Thread starter BARRY
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Barry, IIRC, you'll need to change the driveshaft because the V160 is longer than your A/T and the splines are different. You'll probably want to change the diff too won't you? Again, IIRC, if you run the V160 with your stock A/T rear end, you wind up with some weird, very short ratios? I remember looking at doing this with my A/T Supra 4-5 years ago and it just wasn't going to work out. Then I bought a 5spd Supra and had that converted to the V160, but changed out the whole drivetrain on that too.
BARRY
New Member
well...i'm just trying to figure out, do i need a custom driveshaft OR can i just bolt on a Supra TT driveshaft and be done with it.
I plan to keep the factory rear end and slap in a KAAZ 2way LSD when the swap is all done. I actually am looking forward to the short gears. I do a lot of roadracing and drifting so short gears is greaaat!
also if anybody is selling a V160 please let me know. I am currently in the market for one, and am having trouble locating one.
I plan to keep the factory rear end and slap in a KAAZ 2way LSD when the swap is all done. I actually am looking forward to the short gears. I do a lot of roadracing and drifting so short gears is greaaat!
also if anybody is selling a V160 please let me know. I am currently in the market for one, and am having trouble locating one.
Don't take this as gospel because I'm working from memory, but the V160, its driveshaft and its diff all fit together, and are not interchangeable with pieces from say a 5spd or A/T setup.
You can probably take your existing driveshaft and have it modified to fit the V160, or you could take a Supra V160 driveshaft and have it modified to bolt up to your existing diff.
AFAIR, you can't just take a Supra 6spd driveshaft, bolt it in and go.
An old Supra buddy converted his A/T Supra to 6spd and he ran the car with the A/T diff for a few months and didn't like it, but his is a street car. I'll try to dig up his comments and post them.
You can probably take your existing driveshaft and have it modified to fit the V160, or you could take a Supra V160 driveshaft and have it modified to bolt up to your existing diff.
AFAIR, you can't just take a Supra 6spd driveshaft, bolt it in and go.
An old Supra buddy converted his A/T Supra to 6spd and he ran the car with the A/T diff for a few months and didn't like it, but his is a street car. I'll try to dig up his comments and post them.
Barry, here's an article on changing an A/T Supra over to the 6spd:
http://mkiv.com/techarticles/auto_to_6spd_swap/differential/index.html
And here are some comments about running the car with a 6spd and the A/T diff from the guy who did it. You might want to check your final drive ratios and speeds in all gears to see how this thing is going to go:
Differential.......it has an auto differential with 4.27 ratio (5spd NA diff) (tt auto = 3.77)...you cant use it in anyway with the 6spd tranny(drivability
sucks!) or change the internals to 3.13(tiny case).....for this
one you really need a whole 6spd differential (huge)
Drive Shaft.......there are two Drive Shaft, front and rear...you will
need both from the gte, they only sold as one part for about......the ge is slide in shaft, the gte is bolted..
http://mkiv.com/techarticles/auto_to_6spd_swap/differential/index.html
And here are some comments about running the car with a 6spd and the A/T diff from the guy who did it. You might want to check your final drive ratios and speeds in all gears to see how this thing is going to go:
Differential.......it has an auto differential with 4.27 ratio (5spd NA diff) (tt auto = 3.77)...you cant use it in anyway with the 6spd tranny(drivability
sucks!) or change the internals to 3.13(tiny case).....for this
one you really need a whole 6spd differential (huge)
Drive Shaft.......there are two Drive Shaft, front and rear...you will
need both from the gte, they only sold as one part for about......the ge is slide in shaft, the gte is bolted..
BARRY
New Member
2,557rpm for supra tt with v160 at 80mph (3.133fd)
3,193rpm for sc400 with v160 at 80mph (3.912fd)
1uz-fe redlines at 6,200rpm probably why you guys don't like the idea, but i think otherwise. although 2nd gear is unusable, everything else looks fun.
especially since when i eventually drop in that built motor i should have a higher redline making full use of the sweet transmission. with the factory redline at 6,200rpm 6th gear will top out at 155mph. pretty short by anybody's standards, but once i raise up the rpms say to 7,500rpm as a guestimate. my 6th gear will top out at 188mph. or at 7,000rpm top out at 175mph.
i think its jussssst right for my future goals.
3,193rpm for sc400 with v160 at 80mph (3.912fd)
1uz-fe redlines at 6,200rpm probably why you guys don't like the idea, but i think otherwise. although 2nd gear is unusable, everything else looks fun.
especially since when i eventually drop in that built motor i should have a higher redline making full use of the sweet transmission. with the factory redline at 6,200rpm 6th gear will top out at 155mph. pretty short by anybody's standards, but once i raise up the rpms say to 7,500rpm as a guestimate. my 6th gear will top out at 188mph. or at 7,000rpm top out at 175mph.
i think its jussssst right for my future goals.
Barry, it's definitely your ride, but I wouldn't want to have to take a long trip in the car geared like that. Should be lots of fun for track work, though, as long as you don't have to run at Le Mans.... You'll definitely be the king of the stoplight to stoplight crowd!
You're probably already aware, but there are usually a few V160's on SF for sale in various condition. I know two guys that can rebuild them (neither out in Cali) if/when you find one you like.
You're probably already aware, but there are usually a few V160's on SF for sale in various condition. I know two guys that can rebuild them (neither out in Cali) if/when you find one you like.
BARRY
New Member
yeah...i know what you mean about freeway driving.
my 4A-GE 20v revs to 9,500 so daily driving with the factory final drive it is fine, but when i'm racing the gears are WAYYyyy tooo long.
i'm trying to fit up a miata 6speed transmission to my engine. the added gear will effectively shorten my gear ratios, and the additional overdrive gear will allow me low rpm cruising.
my 4A-GE 20v revs to 9,500 so daily driving with the factory final drive it is fine, but when i'm racing the gears are WAYYyyy tooo long.
i'm trying to fit up a miata 6speed transmission to my engine. the added gear will effectively shorten my gear ratios, and the additional overdrive gear will allow me low rpm cruising.
BARRY
New Member
bringing up a old thread.
if i used a W58 on my 1uzfe. could i use a SC300 manual transmission driveshaft and it will bolt directly up like factory?
length wise i'm thinking it will bolt up perfectly fine. transmission placement should be dead on and since its the same transmission as the manual equiped car it should work.
if i used a W58 on my 1uzfe. could i use a SC300 manual transmission driveshaft and it will bolt directly up like factory?
length wise i'm thinking it will bolt up perfectly fine. transmission placement should be dead on and since its the same transmission as the manual equiped car it should work.
4000GT
New Member
This is what I did...
I have a MKIV Supra Auto chassis, I used an R154 MKIII Supra gearbox. The splines between the Auto and R154 are the same but the W series box isnt. I think your best bet is to use your stock rear drive shaft half so it bolts to the diff, and use your front half shaft so it bolts to the two chassis mounting points, then change the yoke to suit the box output shaft you use and make length to suit. I had mine lengthened and balanced and it cost NZD250.
I have a MKIV Supra Auto chassis, I used an R154 MKIII Supra gearbox. The splines between the Auto and R154 are the same but the W series box isnt. I think your best bet is to use your stock rear drive shaft half so it bolts to the diff, and use your front half shaft so it bolts to the two chassis mounting points, then change the yoke to suit the box output shaft you use and make length to suit. I had mine lengthened and balanced and it cost NZD250.
BARRY
New Member
well...used parts are always cheaper than getting a new driveshaft made, but that looks like what will have to be done.
it depends on where i get the driveshaft made. if they reuse the yokes etc etc it can be around 200-250usd, but if its a whole new driveshaft it can range from 250-500. aluminum is between 500-800, and carbon is 800-1,200.
it depends on where i get the driveshaft made. if they reuse the yokes etc etc it can be around 200-250usd, but if its a whole new driveshaft it can range from 250-500. aluminum is between 500-800, and carbon is 800-1,200.
