Tools and their jobs

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striker

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PEDESTAL DRILL: a tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching
flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the
chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that
freshly painted part you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere
under the workbench at the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint
whorls and hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you
to say, "Ba****d...."

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: normally used for spinning pop rivets in their
holes until you die of old age.

PLIERS: used to round off bolt heads.

HACKSAW: one of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more
dismal your future becomes.

VICE-GRIPS: used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is
available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to
the palm of your hand.

OXY-ACETYLENE TORCH: used almost entirely for lighting on fire various
flammable objects in your workshop. Also handy for igniting the grease
inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: once used for working on older cars and
motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 13mm
socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: used for lowering an automobile to the ground
after you have installed your new disk brake pads, trapping the jack
handle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG 4 X 2: used for levering an automobile upward off a
hydraulic jack handle.

TWEEZERS: a tool for removing wood splinters.

PHONE: tool for calling your neighbour to see if he has another
hydraulic floor jack.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: a tool ten times harder than any
known drill bit - that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use
anyway.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: a tool for testing the tensile strength on
everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 13mm x 400mm SCREWDRIVER: a large prybar that inexplicably
has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the
handle.

INSPECTION LIGHT: the home mechanic's own tanning booth - it is a good
source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise
found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, it's main purpose is
to consume 60-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm
howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the
Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat
misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: normally used to stab the lids of old-style
paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; but can also be
used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

AIR COMPRESSOR: a machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that
travels by hose to a Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts
last overtightened 58 years ago by someone, and neatly rounds off
their heads.

PRY BAR: a tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50p part.

HOSE CUTTER: a tool used to cut hoses too short.

HAMMER: originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not
far from the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: used to open and slice through the contents of
cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well
on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles,
collector magazines and rubber or plastic parts.

F**KIT TOOL: any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage
while yelling "F**K IT" at the top of your lungs. It is also the next
tool that you will need.

GREASE GUN: a device used unsuccessfully to force grease into rusty,
plugged up grease fittings. When not in use this device meters a steady
drip of oil onto the surface beneath it and mysteriously weeps a coat
of grease onto its outer surface, no matter how thoroughly it was
cleaned before it was put away.

SNAP RING PLIERS: a tool typically used to remove or install circular
clips from shafts and bores and launch them across the shop or into a
gravel driveway.

CHANNEL LOCK PLIERS: a tool whose primary purpose is to create large
painful blood blisters on the palms of your hands while simultaneously
rounding the heads off of bolts. Secondary use: See F**KIT TOOL.

WELDING HELMET: a cleverly designed device which allows molten metal
beads to accumulate on one's face and glasses.

ADJUSTABLE SPANNER: a dual purpose device used to rounding off bolts
AND mashing knuckles simultaneously.

MICROMETER: see C-clamp.

LARGE SOCKET WRENCH: see hammer.

MULTIMETER: storage holder for dead batteries.
[FONT=Courier, Monospaced]FIRE EXTIGUISHER: (Normally a brightly coloured ornament), The "never
works when you need it tool", especially when welder has set fire to
your 99% finished project.... see Oxy-Acetylene welder, Mig welder,
Blow lamp, Zippo
2) (In Car version) Goes off when your passenger stands on it, or
before you've stopped spinning

grtz Thomas

ps: What do you get when you cross a Jehovah's Witness with an Atheist?
Someone who knocks on your door for no reason.
[/FONT]
 
Absolutely BRILLIANT!!!!! Had to get back on my chair a number of times!:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: Thanks!

Wayne
 
I like these!

Here's a few more which occurred to me:

CHEATER PIPE: A cheap tool used to break expensive tools

PLUG GAPPING TOOL: For cracking ceramic insulators on pregapped plugs.

GASKET SCRAPER: For ruining cast aluminum sealing surfaces

LUG WRENCH: My personal favorite for removing excess skin off my knuckles

CARBURETOR CLEANER: Best skin drying agent known. When in a pressurised canister can be ignited and effectively used to incinerate biting insects and neighbors' pesky pets.

PAINT STRIPPER: Removes it all. Paint, bondo, skin, fingernails, etc. When used in enclosed spaces, renders the user senseless and high as a kite within 2-3 hours.
 
This thread reminds me of the horrible times when I would begin to torque down on a stuck bolt head with a wrench and then suddenly the wrench head slips off violently and your hand and knuckles then slam into a another metal part of the car...Skin is grinded off, blood starts floowing, and then you proceed to curse and throw the wrench across the garage...

Oh, I am guilty of doing that atleast a half a dozen times in my life time...Especially on those hard to reach bolt heads that are covered with grease and grim and have never been removed...

We have all been there I am sure.

Funny but painful stuff on the above reads..Ha Ha...
 
I recently broke the knuckle on my right hand ring finger when the pedestal drill grabbed the lump of steel and spun it round.

I coulnd't clench my fist for well over a month.

Now I have a raised section on the knuckle that is the piece of bone sticking up.

Oh well it give my hand character.

We've all been there.
 

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This thread reminds me of the horrible times when I would begin to torque down on a stuck bolt head with a wrench and then suddenly the wrench head slips off violently and your hand and knuckles then slam into a another metal part of the car...Skin is grinded off, blood starts floowing, and then you proceed to curse and throw the wrench across the garage...

Oh, I am guilty of doing that atleast a half a dozen times in my life time...Especially on those hard to reach bolt heads that are covered with grease and grim and have never been removed...

We have all been there I am sure.

Funny but painful stuff on the above reads..Ha Ha...

I recently broke the knuckle on my right hand ring finger when the pedestal drill grabbed the lump of steel and spun it round.

I coulnd't clench my fist for well over a month.

Now I have a raised section on the knuckle that is the piece of bone sticking up.

Oh well it give my hand character.

We've all been there.

I learned quickly that you should always wear gloves. Have several pairs of Mechanix Gloves and Leather Gloves to keep the hands from getting scorched from exhaust or buggered by metal parts. I learned that the hard way. I get a bit jumpy around power tools anymore I've had so many accidents with them. I stuck a scroll saw through my hand once. Had it cut out at the emergency room. Not fun. Anyways, one handy set of tools to have are bolt tapps. Extractors usually don't work for me b/c the bolts are so frozen that the extractors actually break off into the engine (happened to me). Also, a good set of drill bits (I think their called carbide, not titanium...tried those). Good and hard for drilling through anything. My dad's a millwright and has all of the tools I'll ever need thankfully.
 
Gloves are for whimps....

No blood, sweat and tears no fun... Are you a doctor performing brain surgery or a backyard grease monkey wrenching warrior?.....I am not sure I would feel the same if I didn't have my battle scars on my hands and knuckles from wrenching......:tongue2:
 
Gloves are for whimps....

... Are you a doctor performing brain surgery or a backyard grease monkey wrenching warrior?.....:tongue2:

LOL...Sometimes I feel like I'm performing brain surgery with all of the complicated systems on the newer cars.
 
Miwise - Motors and cars have come along way from the ever so easy to work on early model 2 & 4 barrel carb'd SBC and Ford motors....I use to work on my 74 Land cruiser with a 283ci SBC that was equiped with Edelbrock manifold and Edelbrock carb. Eccel distrubutor, Etc...what a sinch to work on, tweak, and or tune and modify...Twist the distibutor a bit and give me a timing light and I could work miracles on those motors..Turn a couple of screws on the carb for tuning...Easy, Easy, Easy.....Same went for my first early model cars such as my 350ci SS Chevy Nova and my 66 Dodge dart with the two barrel 273ci V8...

Oh the good ole easy days....Now you have VVT-i, 4 cams to deal with, Fuel injection, sensors up the ying yang, ECU controlled everything, etc...Gotta keep up with the technology and automotive engineering or just stick on working with an old carb'd muscle cars.....

I chose to keep up....
 


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