Think im going the water injection route- help please

[glory]

from aquamist web site
System2d with FiA2 amplifier
For those who wants a 3-D water injection MAP but do not want to spend the time-consuming task of mapping, this system is perfect for you.

The heart of the system is a newly developed controller that reads the PWM signal from the engine's fuel injector (including Peak and Hold type) and convert it to drive the High Speed Valve to deliver water, it draws less than 10ma from the pulsed line. This will enable the water injection to follow a fixed water/fuel ratio.

A 3-30psi Adjustable Pressure Switch (normally closed) sets the cut-in point relative to the manifold pressure. It just cannot be simpler for the user.

The system provides a pre-pressurised water line up to 8 bars and the flow rate is metered by our High speed Valve (HSV). This inline valve is made of high grade Stainless steel. As usual, except for the water tank, the system is supplied with everything needed to be fitted with ease.

The Fuel Injection Amplifier v2 (FiA2) ...
Apart from mirroring the fuel injection pulses, it also monitors the fuel's duty cycle and converting it to 0-5 Volt for the purposes of data logging or just want to know if your stock injectors has maxed out. Two coloured LEDs are mounted on the top side of the box. The green LED indicates successful detection of fuel injection pulses and the red LED lights up when water in being injected ( preset manifold pressure is reached).

There is more...
Concealed inside this tiny exterior, it holds a very important diagnostic circuitry - it will detect BLOCKED water jet !!!
it reads the pulsed signal form the centre pin of the Aquamist pump and compares it to the water valve pulses and flags an error signal to yet another 1.5A output drive to trigger a relay or a boost limiting solenoid valve to bring the boost pressure to a safe level should a blocked jet be detected.
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this is the system i belive i may use on my 03' 2uz 4.7 liter TRD supercharged, TT supra fuel pump, 5.9 overdrive crank pulley (now 9+ psi compared to 6 psi stock).........what do you guys think?
what do i need to make sure the tuner does or doesnt do. what do i need to worry about, what problems can occur? thanks for any info.

 

[Zuffen]

Water injection is a cheap and reasonably effective way of lowering or holding intake temps.

One problem with this setup is the spray starts after boost builds which means you don't have the intake tract as cool as you can get it before the boost comes on. This means you won't get the full benefit of the system.

Using an intercooler will give you a cooler temp when driving off boost which means you are starting at an advantage.

I would use this system to spray the inside of an air/air intercooler to have it hold lower temps longer. alternatively you could leave it connected with a air/water unit for some extra assitance.

Give it a go as it won't send you broke and if decide to use a sandwich intercooler under your blower you can always retain it or re-sell it.

Don't think this system is as effective as running a proper intercooler system. The likes of Ford and Jaguar use intercoolers for reliability and well controlled inlet temps.

 

[glory]

Water injection is a cheap and reasonably effective way of lowering or holding intake temps.

One problem with this setup is the spray starts after boost builds which means you don't have the intake tract as cool as you can get it before the boost comes on. This means you won't get the full benefit of the system.

Using an intercooler will give you a cooler temp when driving off boost which means you are starting at an advantage.

I would use this system to spray the inside of an air/air intercooler to have it hold lower temps longer. alternatively you could leave it connected with a air/water unit for some extra assitance.

Give it a go as it won't send you broke and if decide to use a sandwich intercooler under your blower you can always retain it or re-sell it.

Don't think this system is as effective as running a proper intercooler system. The likes of Ford and Jaguar use intercoolers for reliability and well controlled inlet temps.

i would rather run an intercooler like the setup you are putting together.
problem is my toyota manifold - i dont know anyone id trust to weld on it.
the TRD setup just puts the blower up on a type of tunnel ram and it would appear to be a pia to mount a ic below the s/c.
i only need this system if its above 60 degrees and/or 6+psi.
i ran the trck the other day in 30 degree weather and it was an animal.
if the water injection can help it run like that then i will be happy.
by the way do you know if you can run mixures of alcohol and water through systems like aquamist?
i mean if i wanted a little more power could the system handle alcohol/meth in small amounts mixed with h2o?

 

[Lextreme II]

Glory,

I have tried all type of solutions. From water to gasoline. Here is my opinion on it.

1. Water: Cheap, easy to fill, none flammable, none toxic,
HP: Decrease

2. Methanolrice is not that bad, flammable, toxic
HP: Increase

3. Denature Alcohol: Expensive, can get it from home depot, flammable, toxic?
HP: Increase

4. Gasoline: Same as stuff u fill in your tundra
HP: Decrease

Of all the above solutions, i would prefer denature alcohol, it proves the most cooling effect and give most power.

I would avoid water. Water will provid cooling but you will noticed a decrease on power.

 

[Zuffen]

Whilst a sandwich intercooler may be a PIA to instal you need to put in the hard yards to get the result you want.

Remember the good looking girl you (probably) married? You wouldn't have her if you didn't put in the work.

Same goes for horsepower. It doesn't come easy. If it did we all be married to the town bike!

 

[Lextreme II]

Like Rod stated, the water to air would be the best because it always give you cold or cool air. Injection type of kit will only work if you have the fluid. I have experienced many times that i wanted to push my car to full boost, but i ran out of fluid and back off. Unlike injection, intercoolers will give you constant cold air. If you have room or skill, a water to air would be the best...

 

[glory]

guys thanks for the info but i must explain my situation a little more-

this truck is my daily driver and as of right now my only vehicle, it gets me to work every day. So i cant just pull off the intake and go find a shop and run trial and error untill i get it right , this isnt an option.

on the setup now i dont see how water injection can hurt my h.p.
the truck goes into about 7+psi and the knock sensors start to hear the detonation and retard my timing so far i go from being stuck in my seat to almost shot through the windshield (yes slight exageration but you get the point)
ive been told i can have the water come on at any time , 1psi-10psi whatever i want to set it up start at.

how much water do you think ill go through?
its going into a pickup truck so if i must ill mount a small tank in the back bed to store the water.
IC would be great but i cant really go that route right now so any input on water injection is really what i need now , thanks fellas.

 

[Lextreme II]

I think the best place for the tank is in near the passenger side. You dont want to water to come on too early and you dont want the water to come too late. If your water comes on too early your engine will bogg and too late you dont get the proper cooling.

If you plan to run 8 psi, you would set it at 6.5 psi. The reason why you loose hp is because water is not conbustable and have a negative effect on your chamber where, fuel, air and ignition occur. The best way is to try it.

 

[turboandrew]

IMO, set up right, you will not lose any HP, only gain. Your ECM will not retard timing as much and you should make more power. Too much water will lose HP, but since you are in no real danger without it right now, you have the ability to slowly add more and more water, noting acceleration times for each tune. As soon as you see the acceleration drop, back off a bit, and you should be set.

 

[glory]

IMO, set up right, you will not lose any HP, only gain. Your ECM will not retard timing as much and you should make more power. Too much water will lose HP, but since you are in no real danger without it right now, you have the ability to slowly add more and more water, noting acceleration times for each tune. As soon as you see the acceleration drop, back off a bit, and you should be set.

yes well sort of,
it will be a proper tuning sesion...
wide band a/f gauge checking the exhuast and egt probably checking the temp. thanks for the info guys

 

[glory]

decided im going with the 2d aquamist system, its on sale now $599.00 (regular $850.00!!!) at Jackson racing.

if anyones interested just pm me and ill pass on the link for jackson racing.

 

[glory]

ordered my 2d system today -got it for $599.00 US (list's for $850.00 everywhere) and i belive the guy has the wrong prices listed because three other dealers told me thats below there cost by a considerable amount.

this guy has a Aquamist 2s system in stock right now and told me he would sell it to me for the same price if i wanted it!!!!! It lists for $1050.00US !!!!


some days are better than others i guess

 

[Lextreme II]

Great price.... can you take some pictures and post it up here. Love to learn their system. Good job and keep us update with your progress.

 

[glory]

thanks -i have some other questions on Meth so ill start another thread