Started MKIII swap headers

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

cjsupra90

New Member
Hey guy's just thought I would throw this up here for anyone who is interested. I started building my headers (or extractors as some may call them) for my UZ swap today. The pictures below are for the drivers side. They will be 4-2-1 (tri-y) style. At the moment, only the primary's are tacked. They look pretty simple, but was far more dificault to figure out being that they are being build based on dimensions, not with the motor fitted into the car, so I am not 100% sure that they are going to fit but they should. Next step is to weld all the tubes, built collectors and finish the secondaries, then move to the easier passanger side and repeat process.

Although not exactly tuned or equal length, they should be far better then any stock manifold

They are Stainless, 304 for the tubes and 347 for the flanges.

Sorry for the poor image quality, I forgot to bring my camera with me and had to rely on camera phone.

Open to comments and or seguesstions.

Chris
 
damn dude i havent even thought about ordering my tubing yet. yer on a move.

hey man you can come over and test fit them on my makeshift 1uz supra rig if you want.
 
damn dude i havent even thought about ordering my tubing yet. yer on a move.

hey man you can come over and test fit them on my makeshift 1uz supra rig if you want.

I had the tubes for a couple of weeks now. Speeking of which, I have to order more now..... Oh Columbia river mandrel bending has good prices on tubing..... (http://store.racing-solutions.org/)

Whats this "makeshift 1uz supra rig" that your talking about?
 
Gotcha, but there is two problems, that subframe is a pre89 and there is no steering shaft and that is what I am most concerned with when it comes to clearance.

If it were a post89 subframe, then we could accurately locate a section of 3/4 or 1" pipe to represent the steering shaft with a simple jig made from my car......

How much you think a subframe is from a salvage yard? Wasn't that turbo car out by you on 40th st. (or where ever it was) a post 89?
 
i dont see how it matters what frame it is, the motor has to be in the right place, not properly bolted up, getting a rack isnt the end of the world.
 
Im not talking about the rack, Im talking about the shaft between the rack and the steering colum. The other thing is that the motor angle to the shaft is critical also so the motor has to be bolted and angled correctly in relationship to the shaft. The clearance is tight (Im thinking in the neighborhood of 1/8" maybe even less, lets hope not). If I had the mounts done for the pre89 subs, then we would just have to find a car that was pre89 to make a jig from to locate the shaft on your extra sub.... What about Sean's car, maybe take your bare block and on head over there with my mounts and that header and then it would be tested in a car just as if it were the actual install, his is a post89 right?
 
Wait, we would need a trans bolted in too in order to get the angle correct........ Damn, that posses a problem........
 
Damn Chris, you have been hard at work!

Yep, having to push now cause there is no telling how much longer my 7m is going to last and I almost spend as much on oil a week as I do gas cause I dont feel like tearing apart the front of the motor to find a fix what ever is leaking (and its leaking bad).....
 
seans car is a 91, but if we get all the parts in one place takeing my bare block and heads over to his place to for a test fit shouldnt be a problem, also i think we could mesure the angle of my motor and simulate it with a jack.
 
My stands are slightly different, raised the motor a small amount. This was from when I was still planning on TT'ing mine and thought that it might open up a bit of room for DP's so your angle will be slightly different then mine.
 
Well, finally got a chance to test fit the drivers side header thanks to Jake and Sean and to my surprise, the clearance was far greater then I antisipated. Much to my surprise, insted of having about 1/8" or so, it turns out that its more like a mile, ok, a full inch but you get the idea. How this happened, I have no idea but I am ecstatic about the outcome. Here are a few pictures. Sorry for the lack of photo quality, as usual, I didn't think to bring the camera and thus had to rely on th phone. Now its time to finish the secondaries and final collector for that side and build the much easier passanger side unit....
 
Chris, what has happened with this project?

Also, post something in the exhaust section when you can.
 
Chris, what has happened with this project?

Also, post something in the exhaust section when you can.

John, like Jake said, Im working on it when I can... I just recently got laid off from work so most of the project has been put on the back burner for now..... Although this past weekend, I did make a bit more progress on the drivers side header cause of having some of the material lying around... I will be working more on it here is the very near future cause I have most of the material that I need to finish.
 
Here are some pix of the bit of progress that I have made lately. Just the cutting and welding of the pieces for the 2 into 1 collectors....
 
Also, here's a couple of shots of the welded primaries with the collectors welded also. Cylinders 1 and 5 already have the secondary attacted too. Cylinders 3 and 7 have the collector on but I have to cut the end and then attach the seconardy still afterwhich I can attact the collector for the secondaries and finish that side out..... Im at a loose as to whether or not I should pick up a couple of v-band assemblies or just use some 2bolt or 3bolt flanges for the connection to the exhaust..... Also, a question (and this is probably best directed to John (Jbrady)), I want to add in some braided stainless flex joints, although I cant see why it would make a differance, but if so, would it be better if they were implimented into the header (main collector pipe) or into the exhaust after the header to exhaust connection?
 
Nice work.

Flex joints should separate the engine/headers from the secondary exhaust system. They should NOT take weight or load. The secondary system should be well supported.
 


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