Single Turbo Setup

Which Single Turbo Of Choice for the 1UZFE Street Application

  • T3/4

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • T62

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • T67

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • T70

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • GT30R

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • GT40

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Others

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0
  • Poll closed .
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Lextreme II

Active Member
Hello,

This is something interesting for all Lexus-Toyota V8 owners. Here is a poll for all of you. If you have about $1,400 USD budget for a single (Turbo Only) Which two turbos would you like for a street driven application on a 1UZFE?

Here are the specs:

1. 12-14 psi
2. Street application
3. Stock Motor
4. Great lower end torque and power

Please poll this thread and tell us the reasons why?
 
A t4 turbo is a 80's design that is lacking in efficiency for its size, Personally I'd choose a gt40 turbo. It seems to be a large turbo that will promote high power numbers at a relatively low boost pressure and provide the best of modern technology that still has an affordable price.
 
I have a question here, the post assumes a boost level of 12-14 PSI, I am about to turbo my 1UZ, I had been running a SC at 8-10 lbs, but couldnt get anymore boost out of it and other issues. So I am wondering based upon the premise of this poll is it safe to run 12-14 or even higher boost on a stock motor with a SAFC and larger injectos for fuel management? I was kind of scared to go past 10lbs.
 
Yes I saw that but my guess is that the car isnt going to run for 100K miles at 22psi. I'm interested in a safe boost level that will go 100K or more.
 

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Morris,

Very true, but my point was that the 1UZFE is pretty strong. I over heat it few times now (all the way to H) and driving daily with 14.7 psi and went to the 20s few times already. Any engine with abuse will not last. My point was just that.
 
So in your experience is 12- 15psi safe as a daily driver. I have been supercharged at 7-10 PSI and am now going turbo, I was going to limit theh boost to 10 pounds but now I am wondering if 12 or 15 is just as safe? By the way the engine has 230K on it now compression and leakdown tests are perfect.
 
I thinking for 6-10 psi gt35r is very good. on my frind 2.2 litre honda that turbo starting making boost at very low 3000 RPMs. we have 4 litre. thinking that at 2000 rpms spoolup to 5-6 psi will be instantly... At high 2000s RPMs it should be at peak...
That friend form honda say he drove a lot of turbos but gt35r have extreme fast spool for such big turbo. it is good to 680 hp...
 
And for Drag application what turbo works?

iF the GT40 works very well for street use, what turbo can be the best option for drag racing application?
 
Franco-AE86 that is an unanswerable question. Set a horsepower goal, then ask what turbo would work the best.

AFA the poll, basically it breaks down to the obvious. The newer, non stone-age turbo's (GT) are going to spool far better than the older models, while being more efficient.

60-1, 62-1, and all of the TXX sieres.
All will support fairly large amounts of power. 550bhp-850bhp.
The problem is that these are stone age turbos. Long spool times, and not as efficient to begin with.
With a $1400, you have the funds to forget these things.

GT30R Is an absolutely great choice for someone wanting to run 450bhp - 500bhp
GT35R is the Phenom. A great choice to 550bhp, and still running 600bhp before turning into a complete oven.
GT40 Is going to be great for up to 650bhp. Tho they will flow more than that, they loose efficiency and you would want to get a GT42R & up.





Personally, the GT30R is probably going to be the best choice for someone not wanting to rebuild the bottom end. It's defiantly the most streetable choice.

That being said, non of the GT's are going to be a bad choice.
Make SURE if you buy a GT that it is in a real GT housing. Not an older T housing.


I didn't list the T4, or T3/T4 because they don't belong. The stock 1uz surpasses what the hybrid can provide, while the T4's are pre-historic.
Let's be honest, we only still use T3's and T4's because most of us can't afford a GT, while you can buy those all day long at a junkyard for $25.

If you can afford a GT and you're on a street car, there is no reason not to own one.
 
Just an FYI, a lot of the "stone age" turbos now-a-days are available with more modern compressors and turbine wheels, aka the GT wheels. You just have to go to someone like precision turbo, etc to get them. Basically you are getting the newer wheels with out BB center sections. And don't let anyone convince you the BB are god's gift to turbos -they are nice if you are willing to shell out the cash, but the proper selection of compressor, turbine A/R, etc are FAR more important then whether or not to have BB.
 
What is the benefit of the newer GT technology over what you are calling stoneage, ie T62-1 etc?

do they spool faster, are they more efficient, less heat what?
 
Faster spooling, much higher effeciency.


turboandrew you're right that you can get new wheels put in old housings. Then you have to ask yourself why you would do it when you can just buy the superior turbo outright, without inferior designs.



The question is what would you do for $1,400. Not how I turboed my car for under $300 in parts LoL.
 
GT47 88mm..... fully built motor, built heads, stout fuel system. Possible full boost by 4800 in fourth gear, especially with a 2uz-fe bottom end, and serious cams. Fun on the street, and terrifying top end.

Eric
 
cowboy bebop said:
GT47 88mm..... fully built motor, built heads, stout fuel system. Possible full boost by 4800 in fourth gear, especially with a 2uz-fe bottom end, and serious cams. Fun on the street, and terrifying top end.

Eric

and for the rest of us with families and mortgages and bills to pay...?

that's all good, but the fuel system alone for a combo like that would run to $AU2000+

and FWIW - "olskool" turbos are still efficient - people seem to think that because there is asomething newer on the market the old is throwaway garbage and i beg to differ.
 


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