Hello Lextreme members,
This previous weekend I was tasked with changing out my camshaft sensors. My left hand sensor was sliced by the serpentine belt so it threw a Code 13 for RPM Signal. Heres a little backstory to my issue
Initially when the Code popped up, there was definitely misfiring going on and a crappy idle dropping, even stalling when at a stop light. Eventually as the car still ran I drove it to work, not far about 1.5 mile, and back and after a week or two of doing so the misfiring poor idling dissapeared. The code remained but rough idle after the engine warmed up and stalling issues were gone.
I finally decided to tackle the CEL as I believe it was affecting my gas mileage, (Maybe it was in my head) but nevertheless the CEL had to go. So I did my research as of how to remove the sensors and pretty much did what was needed to access them. (Air Intake Setup, removing the top plastic covers and the top plastic timing covers, the serpentine belt, disconnecting the spark plugs from the distributor, removing the ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor, and finally the housing to access the sensor.) I pretty much put everything back in its respective place.
Although I didnt note the position of the distributor rotor, so I replaced it up towards the spark plugs at 3 o' clock. I read that it needed to be in the same position it was in before hand other wise it would screw up the timing. Once everything was back together it started on the first turn on the key but when i went out front to check the engine there was a strong vibration and the smell of gasoline or something was present. I'll post a link to a youtube video describing what happened.
Could this strong vibration be due to the possibility of the distributor rotor not being place on in the direction it was taken off? Or might it be an issue with something else as far as the sensor.
Now I know this also sounds hilarious but since this was my first time taking apart the engine myself, I mentally took notes of things that werent how I found them when assembling everything back together and that would possibly mess up engine or cause another issue.
Heres the list of things that I think could also be a factor:
There was one of 3 12mm bolts (that holds the distributor housing to the engine) slightly sticking out further than I found it by I'd say 2 or 3 millimeters. Everything else fit accordingly but I noticed I wasn't flushed. Unsure it this would cause a strong vibration.
When assembling the new cam sensor for the RH side distributor housing, the sensor I recieved from Beck Arnley (Rock Auto) had a tiny 'o-ring' on the base of the sensor. Initially when trying to insert the sensor into the housing, even with pressure it wouldnt fit with the plastic ring. Since it came with this from the manufacturer I assumed it was needed (*even though the sensor that WAS being replaced didnt have that same ring*). Since it wouldnt fit but seemed important I moved the ring to the base and of the sensor and used it almost as a gasket. (it sat in between the base of the actual sensor itself and the housing) I will post pics of the sensor below. The reason why I think this might contribute to a strong vibration is because the difference with the oring off is a millimeter raise of the sensor (from being flushed, with it on) inside the distributor housing.
Please keep in mind I only changed the RH cam sensor in order to make things easier to troubleshoot before moving on the the LH side. The LH side was sliced. Could this be also from not completing both sides with new sensors?
I understand these are small things but this is something that is probably very difficult to diagnose just due to the fact it being a 'strong vibration'.
Anyways thank you for taking the time to read this, if you have any idea what it might be please dont be shy. I'm fairly new to the 1UZ, even though its giving me a hard time I have to say I'm starting to love figuring out it.
Thank You <3
Heres the video:
Image is below of the sensor and the circled 'oring':
This previous weekend I was tasked with changing out my camshaft sensors. My left hand sensor was sliced by the serpentine belt so it threw a Code 13 for RPM Signal. Heres a little backstory to my issue
Initially when the Code popped up, there was definitely misfiring going on and a crappy idle dropping, even stalling when at a stop light. Eventually as the car still ran I drove it to work, not far about 1.5 mile, and back and after a week or two of doing so the misfiring poor idling dissapeared. The code remained but rough idle after the engine warmed up and stalling issues were gone.
I finally decided to tackle the CEL as I believe it was affecting my gas mileage, (Maybe it was in my head) but nevertheless the CEL had to go. So I did my research as of how to remove the sensors and pretty much did what was needed to access them. (Air Intake Setup, removing the top plastic covers and the top plastic timing covers, the serpentine belt, disconnecting the spark plugs from the distributor, removing the ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor, and finally the housing to access the sensor.) I pretty much put everything back in its respective place.
Although I didnt note the position of the distributor rotor, so I replaced it up towards the spark plugs at 3 o' clock. I read that it needed to be in the same position it was in before hand other wise it would screw up the timing. Once everything was back together it started on the first turn on the key but when i went out front to check the engine there was a strong vibration and the smell of gasoline or something was present. I'll post a link to a youtube video describing what happened.
Could this strong vibration be due to the possibility of the distributor rotor not being place on in the direction it was taken off? Or might it be an issue with something else as far as the sensor.
Now I know this also sounds hilarious but since this was my first time taking apart the engine myself, I mentally took notes of things that werent how I found them when assembling everything back together and that would possibly mess up engine or cause another issue.
Heres the list of things that I think could also be a factor:
There was one of 3 12mm bolts (that holds the distributor housing to the engine) slightly sticking out further than I found it by I'd say 2 or 3 millimeters. Everything else fit accordingly but I noticed I wasn't flushed. Unsure it this would cause a strong vibration.
When assembling the new cam sensor for the RH side distributor housing, the sensor I recieved from Beck Arnley (Rock Auto) had a tiny 'o-ring' on the base of the sensor. Initially when trying to insert the sensor into the housing, even with pressure it wouldnt fit with the plastic ring. Since it came with this from the manufacturer I assumed it was needed (*even though the sensor that WAS being replaced didnt have that same ring*). Since it wouldnt fit but seemed important I moved the ring to the base and of the sensor and used it almost as a gasket. (it sat in between the base of the actual sensor itself and the housing) I will post pics of the sensor below. The reason why I think this might contribute to a strong vibration is because the difference with the oring off is a millimeter raise of the sensor (from being flushed, with it on) inside the distributor housing.
Please keep in mind I only changed the RH cam sensor in order to make things easier to troubleshoot before moving on the the LH side. The LH side was sliced. Could this be also from not completing both sides with new sensors?
I understand these are small things but this is something that is probably very difficult to diagnose just due to the fact it being a 'strong vibration'.
Anyways thank you for taking the time to read this, if you have any idea what it might be please dont be shy. I'm fairly new to the 1UZ, even though its giving me a hard time I have to say I'm starting to love figuring out it.
Thank You <3
Heres the video:
Image is below of the sensor and the circled 'oring':
