Quick check, hot at coil no spark?

[the ghoul]

Hey guys;
wired up a 1uzfe (jdm) with a 92 ls400 harness and ecu;
I've verrified the circuit open relay, and both efi relays are working correctly. The coil to caps are both hot when ignition is on, and in start position. I don't have much more than an ohm meter for diognostics (picking up a better spark light and an injector light tomorrow) but best that I can tell I'm not getting any spark...
Only things it could be is cap, rotor, or wires right?
I see there are plugs going to the base of each distributer, are they involved in any way with something that could cause this issue?
I spent all day working on it and have a feeling it's just a cap or rotor issue, but it seems odd both banks would be bad, but I suppose sitting in a crate with salt water vapor would do that?

Idk, any help would be very appreciated

 

[the ghoul]

talking things thru with my father at work, he explained to me how an ignition coil works, and that i indeed could be seeing voltage between the coil and distributer but all that means is i have power waiting.
after i told him that i didnt see any jumps in the multimeter when cranking he said that im not getting signal....

I guess i should ask then;
what would cause the ecu not to send ignition signal "down the line"
also, I pulled a plug at the end of the night last night and saw no signs of unburnt fuel. I was cranking and checking the car for about 3 hours last night so in my mind it would be safe to assume the injectors are not triggering as well...

Is there some sort of safety device that I forgot to componsate for that would allow the engine to crank but no ignition/fuel signals to be sent? oil level sensor? o2 sub sensors?

I will swing by an auto parts store and pick up an injector tester at lunch and test to see if they are not fireing for sure...

Please keep in mind, this is a swap situation, so any signal wire that is part of the engine harness has been unmodified and is plugged directly into the ecu, and the only sensor that i had to wire up from the car was the oil pressure sensor *which i have yet to wire* (could that be the issue?)

 

[sideshow]

maybe its the good problem that 90% of people forget to do

earth the ignitors

i still havnt seen a bad dizzy cap or rotor button thats bad enough to stop it running
in 7 years of wiring these engines

 

[the ghoul]

maybe its the good problem that 90% of people forget to do

earth the ignitors

i still havnt seen a bad dizzy cap or rotor button thats bad enough to stop it running
in 7 years of wiring these engines

XD

you mean sitting on top of blanket padding on top of the fender isnt a good enough ground?




yep,
never cought the part where i need to do that!
I will be so happy if this is the case!
*will that keep the injectors from triggering as well?*

 

[sideshow]

ground to motor as a test

yes if there is no spark then there definetely is no fuel injection goin on
there is about 5 or so things that will cause injectors not to fire all got to do with safety

 

[the ghoul]

ground to motor as a test

yes if there is no spark then there definetely is no fuel injection goin on
there is about 5 or so things that will cause injectors not to fire all got to do with safety

Ok, I'll try it at lunch time. Thankyou for the help!

 

[the ghoul]

Got spark from both coils, and the one injector i tested was fireing but its still not running!
I bridged the two wires to fool the ecu into thinking the car was in nutral (did it in a rush so i will have to recheck) that didnt help.
and in all fairness I didnt check any other injectors other than the one...

and thinking about it now, i never did check the spark plug wires to be sure they are on correctly...


so a few more checks... think ill get a fresh set of plugs and order the caps and rotors just to be on the safe side. But im getting much closer!

 

[milisakeracing]

If you now have spark at the spark plugs and fuel injectors are firing with fuel, and the neutral switch is bridged, have you checked timing?

Did you wire up the CEL light? One of the first things I did was wire up the CEL light so I can easily check the ECU codes. Then after getting the codes, I could work down the list to knock each one out. When I was at the stage you're describing I had the same spark issue and like sideshow said, it was the ignitor grounds. I also had missed the ground for the AFM although I don't believe this should stop it from firing since IIRC it would just cause the ECU to run rich.

Later after the first winter storage I had a bad spark plug wire as well as a one bad coil and the car still run although a bit sluggish as the bad coil cause it to act like a four cylinder! So the engine is pretty forgiving when some of the parts aren't working.

BTW, 2 weeks until Import Face-Off, you going to make it?

 

[the ghoul]

If you now have spark at the spark plugs and fuel injectors are firing with fuel, and the neutral switch is bridged, have you checked timing?

Did you wire up the CEL light? One of the first things I did was wire up the CEL light so I can easily check the ECU codes. Then after getting the codes, I could work down the list to knock each one out. When I was at the stage you're describing I had the same spark issue and like sideshow said, it was the ignitor grounds. I also had missed the ground for the AFM although I don't believe this should stop it from firing since IIRC it would just cause the ECU to run rich.

Later after the first winter storage I had a bad spark plug wire as well as a one bad coil and the car still run although a bit sluggish as the bad coil cause it to act like a four cylinder! So the engine is pretty forgiving when some of the parts aren't working.

BTW, 2 weeks until Import Face-Off, you going to make it?

I want to I've been handing out the promo flyers...
Thanks for the info I'll check it out

 

[the ghoul]

Well, turns out I did wire the nutral wrong. After correcting that my friend and I were able to get it to run wide open throttle but it was missing, spitting and sputtering real bad 700rpm at best
So we went thru and verrified spark at the end of each lead, we did.
Then took a noid tester and checked every injector lead and they all fired.
I verrified that all the spark plug wires were run properly (they were).
About that time we noticed the return line had a massive leak. So that's when I decided to call it for the day...

Idk; you guys tell me, what do you think?
My next step was going to check the crank and cam sensors, check the resistance to see if there was a bad wire...

After I do those checks, I think I'll do caps rotors plugs and possibly wires, then fix the fuel leak and try again....

 

[gloverman]

Do you have 12 volts at the diagnostic connector on the motor?

 

[the ghoul]

Quick check, could the 255 LPH fule pump I have installed be flooding it?

 

[the ghoul]

Do you have 12 volts at the diagnostic connector on the motor?

Didn't know to check; what pin and what key position. I can check it on lunch brake

 

[sideshow]

donmt waste yr time of changing rotors and sheit quite yet
like ive said before in 100 1uz motors iver never had to replace them
make sure all inejctors are unstuck as ive seen many motors which have atleast 4 or 5 stuck injectors
unplug the injector plug and run one injector terminal to battery positive
now run the other terminal to ground and tap it to ground on and off till u hear it clicking
migh ttake up to 5 minutes per injector
just cause the wire is firing injecotr doesnt mean its opening
if u havnt touched the cam and crank wiring then i doubt its that i could be wrong
i would srpay extra fuel downt he throtle and see if it runs better

first make sure u are getting fuel down every injecotr and spark on every lead before u go pulling more stuff apart

also the myth about neutral star is buuuulllshhhhheeiiittt u dont have to bridge anything
u just have ti wire it correctly and the reason the myth is there cause many years ago when these first came out begginers thought they can wire and made some mistakes
and this myth was born

 

[sideshow]

a quick way to test inejctors for firing is get a long flatblade screwdirver
place blad eend on injector body
and place handle on yr ear use it like a stethoscope and u should be able to hear them clicking

 

[the ghoul]

donmt waste yr time of changing rotors and sheit quite yet
like ive said before in 100 1uz motors iver never had to replace them
make sure all inejctors are unstuck as ive seen many motors which have atleast 4 or 5 stuck injectors
unplug the injector plug and run one injector terminal to battery positive
now run the other terminal to ground and tap it to ground on and off till u hear it clicking
migh ttake up to 5 minutes per injector
just cause the wire is firing injecotr doesnt mean its opening
if u havnt touched the cam and crank wiring then i doubt its that i could be wrong
i would srpay extra fuel downt he throtle and see if it runs better

first make sure u are getting fuel down every injecotr and spark on every lead before u go pulling more stuff apart

also the myth about neutral star is buuuulllshhhhheeiiittt u dont have to bridge anything
u just have ti wire it correctly and the reason the myth is there cause many years ago when these first came out begginers thought they can wire and made some mistakes
and this myth was born

thank you very much... Ill go thru all the injectors tonight!

 

[the ghoul]

a quick way to test inejctors for firing is get a long flatblade screwdirver
place blad eend on injector body
and place handle on yr ear use it like a stethoscope and u should be able to hear them clicking

You sir have earned your self a cookie! Where should it be sent?
Turns out there were 6 bad injectors!!!! I tried hitting them with carb cleaner and shocking them like you said but I the decided "bag it" I just so happened to have a set of 6 green injectors I was going to upgrade to down the road but tossed them in as replacements just to test.... And she fired right up!!!!

 

[sideshow]

no probs
i wire up about 100 jap engines every year so i know the main probs
stuck inejctors are the biggest cause of no start if everythign else is done right

even hodlen motors are stsrting to have same symptons if left on floor for afew years

 

[milisakeracing]

Quick check, could the 255 LPH fule pump I have installed be flooding it?

I know you got the problem fixed already with the injectors but I just wanted to add that the 255 LPH pump isn't flooding it. That is what I am running here and last time the A/F ratio was checked it was at 10.5 off idle, 14-ish on idle.