Power Steering Pump Reco

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

elliotaw

New Member
Anyone considering reconditioning their own power steering pump on their 1UZ, please read on.....

I've just stripped the pump on my 1UZ, had all the parts chromed and polished and ready to assemble. I took the changeable parts (bearing, oil seal, o rings etc) down to my local bearing shop and was able to source all new parts except the oil seal. The seal is 31 OD, 17 ID and 7.9 Width. It as a automotive special and now no longer being manufactured. I have good contacts within the industry through my work and managed to locate 3 oil seals through an auction of brand new old stock. I only need 1 of these for myself but bought all three in case anyone else on here finds this thread and is doing the same.

If anyone needs or may need one in the future and doesnt want to shell out hundreds of bucks for a new pump, I have 2 new seals here for sale at $10 each. Thats more than I paid for them, but I spent time on the phone so I dont think 10 bucks will break the bank for anyone. Please email me at [email protected]. First come first served.

These seals may be readily available in the states, but I wouldnt want to put my money on it.....either way, I have them if anyone wants them...

Elliot
 
The whole lot from a bearing supplier (apart from the oil seal) cost me about $15 and all the parts were on the shelf as they are just standard parts with nitrile o rings.

Elliot
 
pp1.JPG


pp2.JPG


Heres my pump finally back in one piece again.......

Elliot
 
NICE!!! :veryhappy

Wish I had the time to do the engine bay on mine like that... no use for me tho... its a daily driver that will travel way too many dirt roads to keep it clean... :shrug:

Did you do the polishing yourself?

No leaks after the rebuild? :P
 
Hi, no didnt do the polishing myself. The steel parts were chrome plated and the aluminium parts polished by the same guy who runs a shop out of Dandenong in Melbourne. Hopefully there wont be any leaks, but I wont know until the engine is back together....probably a few months a way :(

Elliot
 
Looks like a fine polish job! There is a oil seal rebuild kit that you could do on your pump. I've read on PlanetSoarer that some people experienced alternator failures when the PS pump would leak all over it.
 
Not much times are tough, just spent on a bunch of mods. However I currently have easy access to my powersteering pump because of the fan swap, wondering if I should rebuild now it is original the car has 105,000 miles on it. What do you think? I could also crome dip the fluid tank like you did. Here is a pic I took today, should I do it??
 
Jibby,

Do it now before it fails and takes your alternator with it.

It will never be easier to access.
 
I was only jokin when I asked how much. It's probably cost me more than that with time and running around chasing seals and visits to the platers etc.

100K isn't huge miles on a pump, but if you got all the new replacement parts ready to go it wouldnt take long to strip and rebuild it. You'd have to call your local platers/polishers for a lead time if you wanted to go that route.....depends on your plans for the engine bay I guess

Elliot
 
Well I know that this is a great time to access the pump and rebuild it, crome dip, etc... I have never rebuilt a power steering pump, is it a big deal? Need any special tools? I know you can get the rebiuld kit at the dealer... So rebuild or not to rebuild that is the question?

It's kinda like when changing the timing belt on these cars you should probably change the water pump as well as they go out too.
 
Hi. It's not a huge job to rebuild the pump, but probabaly not a job for someone who hasnt rebuilt mechanical assemblies before, use your own judgement on that I guess.

If you decide to chrome the tank, you will have to remove the tank lid. It is held in place with the bottom lip bent over in 5 or 6 places. you will have to carefully bend these outwards to clear the main tank. There is a rubber seal between the tank and the lid. once removed you will see that there is a filter element half way down inside the tank and the only way i found to remove it was to destroy it by turning the outer lip of the filter inwards until it cleared the little lugs that hold it in position. On reassemebly I didnt fit a new filter as it is not easily cleanable, instead I will run a separate filter inline with the tank return hose.

The rest of the pump is mostly nuts and bolts, you will need some circlip pliers to remove the main shaft circlip located in front of the main bearing which is just behind the pulley.

The pump workings are made up of 4 main parts which MUST go back as they come out. I suggest you take pictures or drawings as you dissassemble. There are 2 locating dowel pins which stop the assembly rotating, one is longer than the other and they have to go back the same.

The pump is a sliding vane type like a lot of oil pumps. There are a number of vanes (steel plates about 10mm x 10mm x 1mm). they have a flat edge on the inner and a rounded edge on the outer. They MUST go back this way for the pump to work efficiently.

You will see also that the main pump body has 2 nitrile oil seals, which i found on mine to be badly overheated. I upgraded these ones for Viton seals which will handle heat far better than the originals.

Elliot
 
Man I got enough things going on with this car right now, I am not going to try and rebuild this pump, someone once said why fix it if it is not broken? However, I may crome out that fluid holder part anyway that looks nice... My pump setup is actually different then yours my fluid holding tank is seperate from the actual pump and has two hoses coming out of it. Anyway, thanks for the feedback....
 

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