Options for 6psi s/c?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

xspsi6

New Member
Ok so I am really trying to stay with the 1uzfe in my sc400 although being a former mkiv owner the 2jzgte is really tempting and power is so easy to come by so I am daily driving my sc400 as of now and it is such a turd:mad: So I must find some more power as my plans for next winter are to make this hog run in the mid to high 12's.

I currently am thinking procharger with a fish bracket but would like to find a self contained option if I could?

Also my car is a 97 so it's obd2 and I would like to know if an safc2 will trigger a cel ? I am almost sure it would.

Fuel system would be a walbro 255 with an aeromotive rising rate regulator

Mods would be full intake and 2.5 inch engine back exhaust along with some magor porting of the lower im.

Please let me know if I am missing anything for my plans?

Headers are an eventual mod but not right off the bat and lextreme tq converter is going to be done in the next couple of months along with a modded valve body.:)
 
12's in an SC equates to about 9-12psi centrifugal. Both Vortech and ATI make self contained units. Its extremely simple to install with very few parts to fail. Forum member Kc95 is making very low 12 second passes at around 10-12psi with supporting mods with a modded 4 speed auto. If your planning on just 6psi, you wont need any kind of piggyback as the stock ecu and fuel system supports 8-9psi max.

My setup is daily driven and not raced/dragged so at the moment I do not have any numbers. So far here's what im running with my fish setup:

procharger P1SC
4" blower intake
Fish bracket (Lextreme)
2.25" mandrel exhaust, cat delete, maganflows x2
Rush long tube tri-y headers
Vortech FMU
Walbro 255lph high pressure
4.27 final drive
non-interooled ATM
stripped a solid 400 pounds from the car

Biggest gains with regard to air flow would be to delete the lower manifold and build a straight runner replacement. This exploits the stock cams to their limit and eliminates the power loss above 5500rpm.
 
Yea I agree about the lower im but I would have to do a lot of custom fab work and since I am not looking to build a race car it will prolly just be ported at best unless somebody makes one already?

I do have the 4.27 final drive which woke the car up a good bid but it's still a slug however I think with my trans upgrades and final drive gearing and of course the drag radials left over from my supra that this should be a reasonable goal to obtain.

Also I plan to run more boost later on but what are my options for piggyback management being obd2?

I need to find out what my limiting factor is going to be? I am trying real hard to stick out the v-8 only because it's the road less traveled and I like to go against the grain:)
 
Easiest limiting factor is the trans, It will fail at 350whp if you dont take preventative measures. Also, since you said you have a 1997, you will need to upgrade rods with strong 1990-1993 rods or aftermarket. Your rods are at the breaking point at 6psi because of how skinny they are.

When the time comes for tuning, there are a lot of options out there. AEM, adaptronic, autronic, megasquirt, haltech etc. There is a lot of tuning support on this forum if you need it.
 
I honestly believe the rods will hold north of 450whp on the skinny rods and lack of a good tune is what contributes to rod/ring land failure however since there is no real tuning options that fit my price range short of sems I doubt I will get the results I am looking for which is depressing:confused:

By the time I get a good ems and s/c kit I will be at that of a gte and a single turbo upgrade.

I may have to go back to the drawing board here.
 
If you dont believe me on the rods strength, read these:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/perfo...more/20362-vvt-i-v-8-super-charger-print.html


http://www.lextreme.com/rods.html


Any toyota v8 between 1994.5-present day has weak rods. I have swapped a lot of UZ engines and for the price of used early rods, install and rebalance you would save money by swapping an enitire 1990-1994 power train (everything) and starting there. I justbought a used UZ with warranty and 140k (low miles for UZ) for $550 with 3 month warranty. These are not commonly modded, super reliable so yards know they will not sell so they drop prices big time. As said, stock early uz will hold about 600bhp versus your 97 that has a maximum of 350-375. Your year is a better design but the rods are the achillies heel.
 
I am not saying that I don't believe you but I had a friend back in the day who had a 97 sc400 and it had a tick over 400whp which lasted him for 2 years before he sold it however he was a master tuner who knows how to tune and is very good at it being that he tunes and builds rally evo's for a living as of now.

I guess what I am saying is that the PROPER tuning of an engine is everything and many people don't tune properly as they tend to tune for max power which creates a huge reliability problem and whatever whp the engine breaks at is what they tend to call the said limit which is the absolute wrong way to think when it comes to tuning.
 
There're variables when the rods break, but as a safety measure, you shouldn't pass the limit of what most others had experienced. But it's a your choice. :p Forced induction creates a lot of pressures on pistons and rods.
 
Yea as much as I am trying to tell myself that I want to keep the 1uzfe for my hp per $$ goal it is most likely not going to cut it.:confused:
 
Boosting a UZ doesnt have to be a top dollar affair. I procharged mine for about $1500 Total and ended up with about 150BHP over stock. Used blower + bracket = done Lol.
 
You make it sound tempting and another thing I have been thinking about in addition to the sc set up is the 4.7 short block but who sells the mounts for it? I thought they were avl here but I don't see any?

1 more ?? Does the bracket come with spacers or is this a trial and error type of deal?
 
you will need to make your own spacers for centrifugal setups but it takes an hour or 2 at most. David sells 4.7 motor mounts under his products section.
 
you will need to make your own spacers for centrifugal setups but it takes an hour or 2 at most. David sells 4.7 motor mounts under his products section.

All I see is a pic of them but to option to buy or a price:confused:
It's most likely me being a noob to this board.?
 
send him an e-mail or send him a message through the forum. David usually returns calls/messages pretty fast. forum name is Lextreme
 
SPF: You are my best sale rep... Commission coming your way...LOL... No seriously.... THE FISH really is a simple setup. Second thing i like about this setup is almost no down time. U can do this one step at a time.

Day 1: Replace the hydro pump to mechanical pump (2Hours)
Day 2: Install the Fish and charger (30 minutes)
Day 3: Make spaces, pulley and belt (2-3 hours)
Day 4: Plumbing (2-3 hours)

If you put few hours a day it could be done in one week and meanwhile u still drive the car everyday while it is being work on. From Day 1 to Day 3 your car is not affected at all.
 
Does the timing covers need cut in order to install this bracket?
Is there any pics of the installation process? Just curious as I would like to get an idea of what is going to be have to be done.

Is there a preferred way to make the spacers?

Thanks
 


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