Non Pwr Steering or AC Belt Setup?

[Handgrenade]

Hello everyone, I have discovered that I don't need my power steering pump and of course I'm not going to have AC in my current 1UZFE Build. I have the belt number that I need if I were going to use the power steering and no AC, but I'm now deleting my power steering pump as well.

I'm fairly certain I saw the "No AC, No Power Steering" in a video somewhere, but I was hoping to have someone help me with the belt numbers and the routing, because it looks like there's no way to put a belt around what I have remaining. It seems the tensioner wouldn't allow for proper belt routing without the PWR STR pump. Hints? Tricks from the pros?

Here's what I have now:

 

[gloverman]

Over the coarse of doing conversions for a few years (10 years now) I have come across this issue many times. I ended up making a setup which I sell commercially over here. It's really common on jetboats but we use plenty in cars too.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=844796677

 

[Handgrenade]

Yes, but it needs to spin the water pump too. I was planning on just running the power steering pump anyway, just put the pressure side, into the return port and fill it with fluid. Let it pump itself forever, just to use it as an idler pulley.
I figured someone here would have a better solution. The Alt only solution is cool, but what about the water pump?

 

[prackers]

The water pump is driven by the cam belt. On my TR7 conversion I made the alternator mount adjustable and use a short belt around the crank and alternator pulleys, works fine.

 

[gloverman]

Correct waterpump is driven off the cambelt. I have seen some people have success with making alternator swing but I have seen just as many with broken front engine housings as a result as well.

 

[Handgrenade]

Oh yeah, that's right. I remember now, I put a new cam belt on this engine months ago and completely forgot about that. The pulley at the top is an idler, not the water pump. Duh. I won't risk cracking the engine mounts. I can make a little slotted plate with a tensioner from another vehicle, should I decide to go that route. Thanks! Wow, can't believe I forgot that top pulley wasn't the pump.

 

[Spinnetti]

I don't like unnecessary stuff. You could just remove the parts in the way, but to keep the resultant holes plugged, I just cut down the existing parts. Probably next time I'll just 3d print some covers instead and save some more weight and look cleaner yet.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152393951958030&set=a.114096618029.102044.645133029&type=3&theater

 

[Spinnetti]

PS, belt is 305K6 (30.5" I think). I had to mill the idler bracket the thickness of the little bracket I used to get some belt adjustment.

 

[Handgrenade]

Don't use FB and subsequently can't see the image.

 

[Spinnetti]

Don't use FB and subsequently can't see the image.

shouldn't need fb, but

 

[Handgrenade]

That is fantastic. Thank you.

 

[cribbj]

shouldn't need fb, but

I couldn't see it as well, and I don't do FB either.

 

[Handgrenade]

 

[361UZ]

Hi Handgrenade..

Probably a bit late, but here is what I have done:

As you can see I have made up a metal plate (red) that spreads the load from the alternator belt tension across the face of the tensioner.
At the bottom of the alternator you can see the adjustment bracket.

I have since fabbed up a steel cover to take the place of that ugly rusty fan hub as well. Looks much cleaner.

Here's a link to the original article:

http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11468

 

[Spinnetti]

Oh, by the way, I noticed the early (90-91 at least) alternator pulley is larger diameter than the later VVT ones (99 at least), so I also swapped in the early pulley on the later alternator to slow it down some when I swapped from the early to later motor. Since mine is in a race car, I'm not driving the usual mass of gizmos of the stock car - cheap way to get underdrive.

 

[Spinnetti]

Also, if I were just a little more motivated, I'd design a smooth single piece cover to replace the fan pulley bracket, idler pulley bracket and the two plastic covers on the front. It'd be a bit annoying to design, but would look really nice 3d printed in ABS and save some weight. Would only need one steel insert where the alternator bolts on. (I'm printing some parts now). Hmm. Wonder if I can get the CAD data from work to work from.....