New to site and Lexus V8's

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Hukari_Imori

New Member
Hi, I just figured I would do a quick introduction before I got into my questions. I'm Ted, 18, born in PA in '88. I currently drive a 1978 Camaro Z28(replica) with a 350ci small block. Its for sale if you're interested btw. I've always been into cars, american muscle, imports, euros, everything. If it has wheels and a motor, I like it. Anyways, I'm also into the arts, and am an aspiring tattoo artist. That pretty much sums up me.

The main reason I'm hear is because I'm really interested in Toyota/Lexus, and I wanted something that doesn't have a huge fanbase to really make an impact in my area.

On to the questions.

I've been researching the first generation Lexus LS400s/Toyota Celsiors for the last few days. I'm hooked on them and honestly can't get enough.

My first question is, I've heard rumors of the stock block handling up to and over 500hp. That seems like quite a bit, considering the amount of wear that kind of power can create. Is it true?

Also, I've heard rumors of the engine, if kept in good condition and not abused, have seen rediculous mileage numbers. Such as a few reports of 400,000 miles and above, and a few of 600,000. That seems way far fetched as most motors, including the SOHC honda's can hardly make it past the 300k mark unless you baby the hell out of them.

My most important question however is, how do they drive? I've ridden in one before, but never driven one. From what I have experienced it is an EXTREMELY comfortable ride, but one of the first things I'm planning on doing is a brake and suspension upgrade. Wald Engineering makes a full coilover kit for it that I'm interested in. I was curious as to how badly that will mess with the ride comfort.

The main reason I ask these questions, and there are more to come I'm sure, is I cannot afford to pay for gas and insurance on a classic camaro. 14-15 mpg is not my friend, nor is the 145/m insurance on it for liability only.

Thanks for your time and I hope to hear from you guys soon. ^_^
 
While 600,000 miles and 500whp is doable but probably stretching the limits with the SC400,LS400,Soarer 1uz-fe motors ...

If maintained it is very possible an 1uz-fe motor can see the 600,000 mile mark....Dealer maintained I don't see why not....A very stout tank of a motor that just keeps running...

As far as 500whp on the stock motor, again with proper tuning I do think the motor can handle it...For how long I would not know......400whp no problem what so ever as proven over and over......Rod stress is the weak point then the pistons...

The 1uz-fe motor has been shown to be one of the best motors of it's time...It has been displayed in many auto museums to be one of the best built and designed motors...Motor professionals have praised this motor for years now...

In conclusion, being around many engine builders and Nitrous pros they also concure the 1uz-fe motor is one of the few motors that can stand up to continued Nitrous use...I have been running nitrous on my stock 1uz-fe motor for 4 years, no damage to report or failure. A little ring wear, but the motor still purs...

The smoothe idle is really the kicker when running these motors...You can barely tell it is running from sound in stock SC400 form... A complement to the dual over head cam design and the fact that each motor is blueprinted when built....
 
Would the gas mileage stay at a decent 18-22? Well, decent mileage for me, as I'm currently getting 14-15 on highways, probably 11-12 city. Would I would be able to run 350-400hp and keep 18 mpg?

Rod stress in stock motors is generally the weakness from my experience, regardless of how strong they are built from factory. Does the 1UZFE use forged or cast internals?

Also, considering most cars after about 100,000 miles lose their resale value. Is that with these cars also? Even though I realize that the LS400s are a luxury car, and and as such will be expensive, I'm still finding them for 7,000-10,000 with 70-100 thousand miles. Is that a good deal? Or should I pick up one of the ones past the 100k mark, since the motor lasts as long as you say?

Also, I am extremely interested in this Twin Turbo T3 set up on the main page of this sight. I was curious as to what all of that together would cost?

And to the brakes and suspension, would swapping out the front calipers for the ones that come on the 2JZGTE Supra be possible?

I know I'm asking alot of questions, but I'm so amazed at this car. Just want to know about it and its limits.
 
If you supercharge or turbo charge the 18-22 MPG is history...Probably closer to 12-14mpg with forced air induction...

At 100,000 miles these engines are just breaking in...Mine has 115,000 and is considered low mileage for a 1992 Sc400... Most consumers don't understand the reliability of these engnines so consumer prices drop over the years...I still think the 1uz-fe is the best used engine to buy for the buck today...

Braking - Swapping Supra big brakes is doable but a big hassle..Rim offset, etc..gets a little hairy.....Just get on Ebay and purchase new Drilled and Slotted rotors with new OEM brake pads and your braking power will increase dramatically, maybe 30% over stock....That I know from my own experiences with both...

Oh, no forgies in stock form...Cast iron but still strong...
 
at 350-400 HP im not sure you could get 18 mpg. you MIGHT be able to if you are willing to do some serious work on the intake and exhaust flow numbers, as well chainging the cams to a slightly more agressive grind. but the LS400 is not a light car, and it has an automatic, so it wouldnt suprise me to see a large drop in fuel effeciency when 200whp is added.

i believe the 1UZ uses an incredibly strong forged crank, and weaker rods and pistons. the block is also very strong, there are heavily modified 1UZs with more than 800hp on the stock block and heads. i have also heard of the stock crank and block taking extreme RPM abuses, well above 8000 RPM, and still holding together.

i am pretty sure that the Supra brake upgrade is on this site, altough i dont know how much it will improve the car. there is also a coilover replacement for the airsprings on the product page.
 
Thats what I thought you would say. Would there be a way to get a reliable 350-400 horse power? And don't say nitrous, don't like the stuff.

So just picking up a set of drilled and slotted rotors and new pads will give me that much of an increase on breaking? Alright, sounds good to me.

I figured it was all cast, but I wasn't sure. Also, do you have any sites for the 1UZFE? I'm having a hell of a time trying to find the aftermarket support it does have, regardless of how little it is.
 
Yes they can do rediculous mileage numbers (Toyota didn't spend > a billion usd developing the 1989 LS400 to ahve it run 100k miles LoL! Which is why the used market engine is flooded with $900 150-175,000m engines). Yes they can handle rediculous amounts of power without a rebuild - like most of Toyota's 6-8 cylinder engines.
There are three big points I'd like to make tho b/c people tend to overlook two of the three when they takl about possibilities.
Yes, your experiance will varry on a stock block just from how the engine has lived & worn. That's obvious.
Secondly... When you talk longevity, and power out. You're talking how good the tuning is. It's much more common to blow a hole in a modern piston, or crack off a ringland from running lean. Than it is break, or bend anything else in the bottom end from a shear excess of power.
Thirdly. And most importantly. Does't matter what power output you make. You can no longer drive, or maintain the engine like it had it's factory rated output. So many people miss that fact it's just sad. :\

Anyone making gobs of power on a stock block should learn an important trick. Boost control.... There is absolutely no reason to drive a 600bhp engine around 99% of the time, when you can flick a switch & have a much more reliable 300bhp engine.

And understand that when factory engines double & triple they're rated output. They're babied. ;) For lakc of a better example, take a 2jz-gte. 900bhp? Sure, dyno queen. Real hard spinning that drum for afew seconds aint it? "600bhp street engine". Yeah, but minus trying to break the sonic barried on a flat out land speed run. That engine doesn't see 600bhp for any leingth of time. Put that on a road racing circuit, where it saw a real load, for an extended amount of time. It'd blow up just like anything else.




So take heed of not driving the car like it came with more than double factory horsepower. It didn't. Keep it to light duty work unless you rebuild it.
 
On the turbo's, or S/C. If you can keep out of boost, mileage won't change appreciably.
Which means a clutch driven supercharger, or a turbo large enough, or a wastegate set to not build boost while you're just driving around town.

A couple of psi on the highway isn't bad. If you can keep the tuning lean under that condition (Not good with OBDII, save that for aftermarket management). You normally find engines pick up 2-3mpg. Ofcorse they loose it accellerating in the city... So call it normally even LoL!


But yeah, few people go to that amount of trouble. Loose a couple of mpg on a turbo, and a signifigant reduction on a S/C if it doesn't have a recirculation valve, and a clutch. Atleast give it a recirc valve.
 
Yes they can do rediculous mileage numbers (Toyota didn't spend > a billion usd developing the 1989 LS400 to ahve it run 100k miles LoL! Which is why the used market engine is flooded with $900 150-175,000m engines). Yes they can handle rediculous amounts of power without a rebuild - like most of Toyota's 6-8 cylinder engines.
There are three big points I'd like to make tho b/c people tend to overlook two of the three when they takl about possibilities.
Yes, your experiance will varry on a stock block just from how the engine has lived & worn. That's obvious.
Secondly... When you talk longevity, and power out. You're talking how good the tuning is. It's much more common to blow a hole in a modern piston, or crack off a ringland from running lean. Than it is break, or bend anything else in the bottom end from a shear excess of power.
Thirdly. And most importantly. Does't matter what power output you make. You can no longer drive, or maintain the engine like it had it's factory rated output. So many people miss that fact it's just sad. :\

Anyone making gobs of power on a stock block should learn an important trick. Boost control.... There is absolutely no reason to drive a 600bhp engine around 99% of the time, when you can flick a switch & have a much more reliable 300bhp engine.

And understand that when factory engines double & triple they're rated output. They're babied. ;) For lakc of a better example, take a 2jz-gte. 900bhp? Sure, dyno queen. Real hard spinning that drum for afew seconds aint it? "600bhp street engine". Yeah, but minus trying to break the sonic barried on a flat out land speed run. That engine doesn't see 600bhp for any leingth of time. Put that on a road racing circuit, where it saw a real load, for an extended amount of time. It'd blow up just like anything else.




So take heed of not driving the car like it came with more than double factory horsepower. It didn't. Keep it to light duty work unless you rebuild it.

I'm not trying to build a 600hp street car. This will be my daily driver, i'm just looking for a bit more power. Keep in mind I'm driving a 300+hp car now, I just can't afford the gas on the classic. I'm not looking for anything over 400hp right now, I don't need it. Not that I need the 350-400 now, but I want it, lol.
 
Just a couple corrections:

The 1UZ has a forged steel crank, with sintered (powder metal) forged rods.

The pistons are cast hypereutectic type, with nitrided ring lands, striated skirts, and cast-in steel struts.

Another nice feature: six bolt mains are standard
 
Building a single turbo setup on your 1uz-fe if you can locate the help or have the brains and experience to pull it off yourself would be your best bang for the buck....Searching this forum you will see the Garrett turbo's are the choice turbo's for a single turbo setup on the 1uz-fe motors...

The Aussie made Eaton M90 supercharger is a small output supercharger system that will bring you approx. 100hp over your current stock 1uz-fe output...However, $5500 USD for 100hp doesn't sound very sweet to me..It's kind of a deadend mod with no room for more output. Infact, alot of people dump the superchargers and turbo instead because of their lack of max power output......Limited space under the hood is the reason these supercharger setups for the 1uz-fe's are small and gutless....

Fuel economy and air forced induction aren't good buddies, they don't play well together......So if your looking for double the power output and close to stock MPG I would say good luck not going to happen....

Look into the turbo threads on this forum...Use the search function and read...You can learn alot about what direction you want to go from this forum...
 
Alright, well thanks alot for all your help guys. And Jibbby, I'll check out the turbo threads and the other ones too. Thanks again!
 


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